I have used TBII mostly, and it seems good, but it doesnt fill gaps well and it doesnt hold handles together to well either. TBIII is the same, just waterproof. Urac is stopping production from what ive heard, and smooth on is too expensive.
Ive heard great things about weldwood's resorcinol, but i cant find anyone that sells it, the g2 epoxy also seems a little too expensive.
Suggestions, i would also like ideas on glue up without that many clamps, (or innertubes because titebond needs air) what aboud a form with pags for strapping and clamping with string
I buy a two part epoxy from a local hobby store. I pay about 7 bucks for it and it has a total of about 12 ounces of glue. It's not as thick as smooth on but thick enough to fill gaps. I have even used it to lam up pieces for risers for glass bows.
Last time I used TBIII for a handle glue up it let go while tillering, so I understand your concern.
Not sure what to say about your form question, but stand by; help will arrive!
have you tried any local hardware stores for the resorcinol. the reason i ask is because most dont keep it in stock but can order it. atleast the the hardware store i work can. its made by dap. comes in pint cans.works great for all wood to wood glue ups. hope i helped in some way.
TBII of III will do anything you ask. Your handles come apart because of bow design, not your glue.
Thank you all, ive never had a handle pop off, because the fade always goes into the limb, but when i glue a bow up with reflex, it always seems to creep back the second i get it to short string
I would imagine that, because of the induced reflex at glue-up, you're not getting a tight joint. TB has no gap-filling properties and requires nearly perfect mating surfaces. For that matter, fades are always hard to glue up with TB without some sort of caul that produces parallel clamping surfaces.
You can still get urac. Buy it till it's gone:)
Wrap the handle (under the leather grip) with serving or non monofilament fishing line and then douse it with Loctite 420. I think that helps to keep wood blocks from popping off as well as using epoxy to fill any gaps.
I think smooth-on epoxy is best wood to wood glue out there.With almost no failures. Fills most gaps.Can work with small batches.Easy to get.Easy to mix 1 to 1 or 2 to 1. Now I think thats cheap..
I'm with PearlDrums on this, Titebond I-III are incredibly strong. I've seen two problems though: Doesn't fill gaps (with one exception) and Takes exponentially longer to fully cure if you're talking TBIII. They say 24 hours but I give it more like 1 week if I can spare the time. If you feel the glue oit not at its hardest after 24 hours.
About filling gaps, best way to go is to first size both sides of the glue joint (spread the glue on and let it soak in for a moment) then add glue if necessary and clamp together. I do it for every joint. Titebond will make wood swell slightly so it tends to lift at the edges when laminating as in wood backings or handles with thin laminates. Keep this in mind when clamping (clamp the edges not the middle).
Lastly, and this is the thing that has helped me most, it's best not to laminate two pieces of the exact same width. Its best if your laminating a 2" wide backing onto say a 1.75"wide belly lam. this way excess glue will 'pool' at the joint because there will be a little lip there. I let the bow dry laying flat with the wider lam on the bottom. This way as the glue dries and contracts, there is more TBIII available to be sucked into the joint instead of air. when it's finally dry (few days) therre will be a thick fillet of glue between the mating face of the backing lam and the side of the belly lam, this will all be cut away anyway during the rough shaping of the bow.
Give it a try and I hope that helps with any wood glue woes.
BTW I use almost exclusively TBIII except for sometimes cyanoacrylate for tip overlays if I'm too impatient to wait. Buy it by the gallon its like $25.
Do a google search for:
Weldwood Resorcinol Glue
Things do not "Pop Off" with Resorcinol or Epoxy. Wood may violently rip apart, break under pressure or tear but not the glue line.
Be aware that Resorcinol will leave a purple glue line.
My experience is with urac 185 and EA 40 never would use carpenters wood glue, urac for wood to wood and ea 40 for wood to horn, never would use super glues on handles, never.