I got lucky and managed to trade for 2 Hop Hornbeam staves. I didn't know a whole lot about the wood previously, but all the reading I've done says it's some really good bow wood. It has a "muscled" back which is why there are the pockets of brown left on the back. If you tried to just get it all out with a draw knife, you'd cut through all the high spots.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae71/gudspelr/1st%20Stave/IMAG0030.jpg)
It's pretty straight, but I've noticed a bit of twist in one limb.
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae71/gudspelr/1st%20Stave/IMAG0035.jpg)
Need to start removing some wood towards the fade so it's bending a bit more...
(http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae71/gudspelr/1st%20Stave/IMAG0039.jpg)
Need to get on building a tillering tree and a new (sharper) 4 way rasp/file-HHB is REALLY hard... Hopefully I'll end up with a stick that'll fling an arrow :) .
------I hope the pics aren't too big...I keep trying to resize them in photobucket, but regardless, they end up at this size.
Jeremy
I like the look of the back. Sand and finish with the brown still on there. I done my last hickory that way and everyone that's seen it likes it. I had removed it all the previous ones. Hickory has that muscled look too. I like it, gives it character.
Looks like a hinge starting at midlimb, definatley get the fades working.
You can narrow to 3/4 in nocks . After bracing to see how the string lines up you can narrow to 1/2 inch nocks. Jawge