I am building a bow 66" ntn, 2" at fades with a straight taper to 3/8" tips. I spliced two 2" x 3/8" boards from hd together using a w shaped cut. I then glued on a bacote handle on belly side and a 1/4" thick piece of red oak on back to cover splice lines. I then backed bow with a linen cloth glued on with tb3. The bow is tillered out to 50# at 22" so far (circular tiller with tips slightly stiff) My question is should I be able to get at least 50 lbs at 26" assuming tiller remains good without a failure? I would like closer to 60# but am afraid to push it with red oak. Sry, no pics available just yet.
You can defiantly get up to 55 # but you will have set. You might be able to heat treat the belly so it will take on a little less set.
If its currently 50@22'' you can expect about 2# more per inch so if you change nothing it should be about 58#@26'' right now.
More than likely the tiller will change a bit when shooting the bow in and you have to make some adjustments to tiller which will also cost some draw weight. You will lose weight when finish sanding as well.
How's the tiller looking, post some pics.
Thanks for the info. I think I will leave it where it is then and see if I can get out to 26". If it ends up anywhere over 50# when all said and done I will be happy. I will post some pics tonight, tiller looks spot on to me so far and it has about 1/2" of set at this point. I can live with that as well.
oh you should deffinantly be able to get to 50. That is assuming you choose good wood. Funny story, I am just now finishing up a red oak board bow that was ment for my wife. She is a small thing so I entended to go light and the whole time i was tillering i was scared i was doing somingthing really wrong because i could barley keep the lbs over 20. so i finish up tillering and hand it to my wife who tries to draw it and cannot. Astounded me discovers my brand new digital scale was set on kg not lbs. I just made a 52 lbs bow! haha Cuban Missle is right tho, ton of set, 2 1/2 inches.
If you have only pulled to 22", then you haven't really gotten to where set can be measured.
If you end up near 1" set after getting to full draw, then you have done well with red oak. :thumbsup:
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-08151633.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-08151547.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-08151530.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-12190117.jpg)
pics of bow. hoping to take it to 26" without further tillering :) tomorrows project.
Without fades your handle will pop off shortly.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-15150157.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-15150717.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg567/cheshirew/2012-04-15150825.jpg)
It ended up at 57# @ 26". Right at one inch of set. I know i will lose a couple pounds still. I also shot a bunch of arrows through it, they aren't spined perfectly (for a different bow) but are still flying close to where im looking. I still have to finish sanding, finish with tung oil, and decide on a grip and rest. If the handle pops later I will deal with it then or start over. Over all Im pretty happy with it.
i agree with PEARL DRUMS since i have faced such a problem before. it has experienced!
i can suggest 2 things if you do not get me wrong.
1. harder way: take it off and make new one. but this needs very good calculation as well.
2. wrap with glass or hemp. well i prefer hemp.
hemp gives nice and primitive looking.
or use it as it is when it comes off (maybe never-finger cross) you can do one of those.
very nice looking bow.
Excellent! I like it. Jawge
Looks real good at the moment. Clean straight lines, nice tiller, good detail,and nearly no set :) BUT Pearly is right. Without the fades going into the board that handle will pop. I have seen it on 2 bows I have and had it explained to me by numerous well informed individuals. With an oak bow I don't think it is worth the effort of trying extraordinary fixes. I would shoot it till it pops and hang it on the wall with pride.
Below is an example of a bow that has the same issue that yours might. A friend bought it at a local hunting store. It is Hickory backed Hickory.
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/DSCF1294-1.jpg)
Here is a board bow I did that shows the handle fading into the limb so that the bend doesn't stress the handle glue line.
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/DSCF0581.jpg)
Hope this helps explain it a little and if you already know this stuff please excuse my lecturing.
Yes, pearldrums was right lol. I shot it a bit more and it did pop, spectacularly I might add. when the handle popped off, the splice exploded. Good thing Im hard headed (or maybe thats the problem) On to the next one, with better fades of course.
Congrats on getting one to shoot. You'll do better on the next one. The tiller looked great for a beginner.