Thought I would try to get some creative juices flowing. Here are three I have ready to go..
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%2020/2012-03-03_09-02-17_977.jpg)
I am going to try a dragon fly cut out on the next bow.. I practiced with my band saw and looks like I can make it work..
So come on boys.. what artistic things you have done.. lams, tips or even on the riser... let's get more creativity going!!
Sweet stuff there Bradford. Will be watching this thread...
:coffee:
Those are sweet lams. KennyM made a bow for me in thhis years swap with some cool limbs like that. I will take some better pics for you tomorrow.This was a bow of Mine I tried some stuff on. Its all been done befor, but I love seeing everyone's spin on it. Limb Art.
(http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss13/dvshunter/Bows049.jpg)
Handle overlays on selfbows.
(http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss13/dvshunter/Bows050.jpg)
David, how'd you do that font? Will it fade with the darkening of the osage?
Stickers Joe. So far the colors have stayed separated I've been told. You can osage pretty dark pretty quick of you are trying.
I've used bleach to darken osage. Ever tried that? Draino works well too.
I've used oven cleaner before Joe. It works well, but bleeds under the stickers and makes a messy pattern. With the sunlight you get that clean look. I'll have to try the bleach thing.
Bradford now you need to show us how you're making those :thumbsup: :pray:
Alright Trux.. only because you have the praying smiley going...LOL
First off, pick out your two or three woods. You want to cut them a little wider than what the final width will be. So since I do 1 3/4" limbs, I cut out 1 7/8 widths of wood. So I cut out 1 7/8" wide by 1/4" thick.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120211095332.jpg)
Then you figure out where your pattern is going to be and you glue the woods together on top of each other over lapping in the pattern area. I don't have a pick of this.. but think of two 1/4" thick pieces with dots of tightbond three.. I might overlap 8". I let them dry up for an hour or so. Then off to the scroll saw.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120129085556.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/100_2140.jpg)
So I am cutting thru 1/2" to 3/4" (depending on how many woods). Cut the pattern and then separate the woods. With just tiny drops of tight bond, the woods pop apart pretty easy.
Then I lightly sand and glue the different woods up with tightbond 3 again
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120129123526.jpg)
I use a nail in my bench on both ends to hold them long ways and then use small clamps to hold it together width wise.
Once those dry up I square up the wood.. a few trips thru the drum sander and the 1/4" ends get a pass or two thru the 4" jointer. Get the bandsaw prepped and cut thru the 1/4" to make two..
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120129145600.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/100_2144.jpg)
Now I have two lams ready to be drum sanded or lam grinded down to size.
If you wanted 4 lams of the same, just increase your thickness of the build and cut 4 out on the bandsaw.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/100_2145.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/100_2146.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120211143724.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120211143739.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%20building%20stuff/20120129150229.jpg)
Very nice Bradford, I bet that was like working with egg shells when cutting them in half and even sanding them down. I could imagine them seperating in my hands and then a wrench flying acrossed the garage bouncing off the wall and breaking through a window out of frustration when I knew I'd have to start all over. :thumbsup:
Bradford, you use titebond and not smothon for the joints. is there a reasons why and is titebond strong enough?
Bradford, you use titebond and not smothon for the joints. is there a reasons why and is titebond strong enough?
Yeah.. wood to wood.. can't beat tight bond 3. It is going under clear glass with smooth on when it's done.
I don't think I would want to use smooth on for this.. I would be afraid of warping the 1/4" stick of wood while drying under heat.
I still have an all wood bow that I built using only tight bond 3.. still holds up and still bends back. It is good stuff.
I did have one seperate on me when I was final sanding it down.. but I just glued it back together and put it in the stack.. came out fine.
(http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv167/singlebevel/build%20along/118.jpg)
(http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv167/singlebevel/build%20along/121.jpg)
(http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv167/singlebevel/build%20along/122.jpg)
(http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv167/singlebevel/build%20along/193.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v430/arrowman/Dcp_0112.jpg)
Did these limds several years ago.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v430/arrowman/Dcp_0111.jpg)
This was the riser I put them on.
Troy
There we go.. now we cooking with bacon!
Looks good guys
wow you guys have incredible talent :clapper:
SWEET!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I had close to 40 hours in glueing and work time in the riser alone. :saywhat:
Troy
Nothing like you guys are doing but I was quite proud when I did them. The first one is a fluer de luis under clear glass and the others have laser engraving under the glass. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/S4020616.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/Iraqbowoutside004.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/MooseFlameBow004.jpg)
WOW... You guys are amazing............
Are you using these lams as actual working lams or as decrative veneers?
Nice work, BTW.
COOL!!! :thumbsup: :notworthy:
Oh Yeah.......Very nice fellas! :saywhat:
Semo_Hunter,
That riser went in the hot box seven different times before making the first trip to the sander to start shaping.
Troy
QuoteOriginally posted by Troy Breeding:
Semo_Hunter,
That riser went in the hot box seven different times before making the first trip to the sander to start shaping.
Troy
I can imagine, very intricate and meticulous work I'm sure. Sometimes the most time consuming ventures are also our best work aren't they? Not sure if I would have the patience to do that, but you pulled it off nicely. :thumbsup:
Semo_Hunter,
I had built several bows with the usual looks and was bored. I was looking around the shop and saw a stack of scrap pieces. You know it when you see it, there was a riser in that stack. I just ad to figure it out. :goldtooth:
Troy
Here is one of those lams in the limb now:
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%2020/2012-03-06_22-49-45_957.jpg)
Wow, you are some talented people. You should be proud of these creations. They are all sweet!
:clapper:
very cool!
Great work makes ya want to start building.
very inspiring, ideas that all go into the idea bank.
how thick do you guys sand these down too?
i made a set the other day using titebond two and sanded them down to .070. long stroy short they came apart in the glue line. so i was thinking either i had them too thick or the titebond two wasnt strong enough. what do you guys think?
maybe the heat generated during grinding released the tb 2 glue
You have to glue them together with the same epoxy as you will use to build the limbs. Atleast thats the way I do it. Since they will be going back in the hot box to cure once in the form the joint in the pieces has to be as strong as possible.
Troy
Amazing work guys, lots of talent here.
-Jay
I use tight bond 3 and drum sand them down to .040 or .030. I have only had one come apart and I just glued it back together with no problem.
You need to sand the joint... clean the joint with Acetone the apply good pressure as the joint dries.
I don't know much about tb2.. But we use tight bond 3 in the wood flooring industry to glue together the floors.. works great and holds up..
Just made these up yesterday/today for a recurve I am building a buddy's daughter..
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Bow%2018/2012-03-23_13-24-11_888.jpg)
Getting better with my scroll saw.. want to start doing more!
Very cool!
hey guys here are some paterns i airbrush on limbs with stain. i have been experimenting with thi (http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbende%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbender13/IMGP2384.jpg)r13/IMGP2386.jpg[/IMG]s f (http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbender13/IMGP2382.jpg)or about 10 years.
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbender13/IMGP2386.jpg)
Really cool Mike!!
hey kenny thanks. im still trying to head north to your place. got a riser im about ready to drill the holes need to get somes limb lams from you so i can cook them up
b (http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbender13/snakebow001-1.jpg)ow i made few years back with air brushed limbs
QuoteOriginally posted by woodbender:
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/woodbender13/IMGP2386.jpg)
So is that Aboo on the right, looks like some nodes.
Really different and cool look!! :clapper: :clapper:
the far right one is hard rock plain maple trying to simulate copperhead pattern
That is really trick woodbender... Airbrushing.. what a great idea.
I have also put fabric under clear glass.. that worked out well also..
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/Daughters%20bow/phoenix5.jpg)
Did you free hand your airbrush or tape in a pattern?
bradford i do both free hand and patterns i draw and cut out with exacto knife. ive wondered about putting fabric pattern under limbs i bet it would have to be some thin cloth. is it difficult to do?
not at all. I cut a 1 3/4" strip for this 1 1/2" bow. Lay down a piece of wax paper on the bench and just really press the smooth on into the fabric. Placed it on the clear glass and did the rest.. It glued up fine and did not feel like it changed anything when pulling back the bow.
Most "normal" fabrics are plenty thin.. LOTS to choose from. I stayed away from the duck fabrics and canvass.
Bradford, would camo denim work under glass? I have a couple pairs of camo denim jeans I've over grown...
Woodbender, those are some beautiful lams.
They might. That is a little thicker than i would use, but as long as you make sure you get the smooth on all the way thru the denim it should work.
Thanks, Bradford.