I started this BBO last weekend and came along way during the week. I was way over weight and brought that down to about 65@28, I am looking for something close to 55@28. I left the riser as a 12" block during my initial tiller and then shaped that before final tiller and weight reduction. This bow is 66" ntn with a bamboo back, .120 Ipe, .180-.002 taper osage and .210 prallel osage. I left about 1.5-2" of the limbs full thickness before the riser to keep this from happening but I guess that was not enough. When I put the bow back on the rope to check it one last time before final sanding the riser started to pull off. I am thinking that filling the joint with CA glue is the best option but am looking for advice before proceeding. I glued this one up with 2.25" reflex in it on the tips and its coming back to straight verey nicely and I am really happy with the bow until now. This is my 5th attempt at an all wood bow. They are great fun but I have not had this problem with glass bows. I must not be doing something right, I had 2 others do this, one is still alive after the CA trick, the other developed a spinter on the back.
(http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af325/lovethehunt/bamboobow019.jpg)
(http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af325/lovethehunt/bamboobow015.jpg)
this is the top of the riser above the sight window
(http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af325/lovethehunt/bamboobow014.jpg)
shape of the riser
(http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af325/lovethehunt/bamboobow018.jpg)
These tips turned out pretty nice
Thanks for your help,
Todd
Its a great looking bow. I would say if the handle is starting to pull off when you draw it then eventually it is going to come off completely. I dont think ca glue will fix it but you could try it. I used to build a few trilams and i always put a powerlam between the back and the core that extended out a couple of inches past the handle. If you left the limbs full thickness a couple inches outside the handle then that should be serving the same purpose as the powerlam. It may be bending too much too close to the handle. I would like to see a pic of it being drawn or on the tree.
Its a great looking bow. I would say if the handle is starting to pull off when you draw it then eventually it is going to come off completely. I dont think ca glue will fix it but you could try it. I used to build a few trilams and i always put a powerlam between the back and the core that extended out a couple of inches past the handle. If you left the limbs full thickness a couple inches outside the handle then that should be serving the same purpose as the powerlam. It may be bending too much too close to the handle. I would like to see a pic of it being drawn or on the tree.
The bow does appear to be bending all the way to the handle, whats crazy is that it didn't do it right away. I may try the CA glue first before going back on the tree.
lovethehunt: I'm not a laminated bow guy, but doing wood bows I know we have to have a radius on the belly piece to keep handles from breaking off. On your bow I can't see anything that prevents the bend from putting stress on the glue join. I think okie64 has the solution, but tough to do that now. Perhaps you can try a stronger laminating glue like smooth-on EA40?
As stated you have no fades. You said your bow is 65# right now and you want 50#'ish. Thats allot of weight to reduce yet and allot of material to move. Brace your at 2-3" and snap a pic. If your near handle area is stiff you can get a decent fade started there and reduce weight at the same time. You may end up with a 45# bow by the time a fade is started. You gotta stop that bend 1-2" short of your grip.