Does Halibut skins offer any protection on the back of a bow and when should they be applied in the tillering process?
Thanks
Is there a specific reason you want to try this, or is it just for the halibut? Lol couldn't resist.
In all seriousness, they should be similar to carp skins or any other fish. Dunno why they wouldn't work.
Before tillering and only for looks or camo
or after tillering
Boy Keenan is gonna love this thread... :laughing:
I have done several Halibut skinned bows. get to floor tiller then apply the skins. They can hold the moisture for a little while so give at a minimum ten days to start tillering. Yes they are thick enough to add protection. I had a halibut backed juniper on the tillering tree one time and I used some, not so good, tip material. The tip let go at full draw. The bow snap forward so hard that it broke in reverse right at the handle. I was amazed at how tough the limbs were when I went ahead and bend tested one of them.
Roy You are right and some day your going to love fish skins as well,,,, when I draw your name for the bow trade, your bows going to get grade A Sucker skins :laughing: :laughing:
lololol lmao man kennan he will love the suckers try mountin the head s on em to lol brock
Do you soak them like snake skins until they get pliable ?
E-nuff outta you Brocky Boy... :)
Keenan I would love to have one of your master pieces. Ya need my address ole boy?
Ranger, Yes I rehydrate right in the sinew glue until soft. With halibut the scales are fairly delicate so be careful stretching. You can pull the scale pattern right of if you get to agressive
i am about to do some halibut skins this weekend- any other pointers keenen- you think TB3 will work well.
i have some skins in the freezer i want to flesh them a little better- should i clean them up with anything etc etc
thganks
Keenan, there is no scales on these just skin.
Ranger the scales are very small and fine but they are there. No nead to worry about them, They will seal in the finish just fine.
Fujimo, I flesh mine, then dry them on a piece of plywood stretched out and stapled on the edges. When dry just cut inside the staple with a razor.
You can use TB or hide/sinew glue. Fish skins take longer to set and hold in place. A trick I use is to take a roll of fiberglass drywall tape. I pull out about 3 ft. and cut it length ways into thirds. That way I end up with 1/2" strips that are 3" long. Since is is self adhesive is is great for wrapping and breeths while drying. I always start at the tips and work toward the handle. I trim the starting end, to fit neatly around the tip overlay, befor I hydrate the skins. Then cut to rough length and soak the skin untill pliable. Dont forget to size the back of the bow.
thats awesome advice- thanks.
Thanks, I put it on the tree one last time to make sure of the tiller and to excessive it one last time before I shined it and pow she blew up.
say keenan,
do you put the skins flesh down or scale down on the boiard- or does it make any difference, and you say you are soaking the skins in the glue to get them pliable again- so does the scale sid noit get full of glue and become messy.
i am going to use TB , cos thats what i have right now- would i rehydrate in fresh water?
should i store them dried out on boards- and maybe spray with some insecticide- just in case- i have a bunch of skins i have been collecting.
thanks.
Tack them down either side, doesn't matter. When dry cut them out with razor and roll up and oput in a freezer bag untill needed. Mice love fish skins so store in a soild container. You can wipe down with acetone to remove some of the oils if needed.
I use sinew glue so it doesn't make a mess with soaking the skin. I just wipe the scale side with damp cloth. Yes just rehydrate in water if using TB.
thanks keenan- yer a winner!!!