Come hell or high water I am going to be chasing gobblers with a BBO from my hands with cedar arras... Tonight I started to thin out the bamoo with a block planer.
I have been talking with Roy who has been wonderful with the tips along the way.
One tip side of the boo
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Other side
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/395364_2898869183461_1012344494_32276998_1856804312_n.jpg)
Side profile
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Here is what I have so far tonight... Looking to take my time.
My first question for you guys is when measuring for thickness is this done from the center of the radius or the side profile... looking for 1/8 in the middle and 1/16 at the tips.
I am going to contiue on working down the boo and looking to pick up a toothing plane
Think I am off to an OK start!!!
cant see yer pics, or is it just me!!
I just fixed them!!! wrong button LOL
i have used a sawzall blade held in my hand for a toothing plane. and it has worked really well- no delaminations yet.
this is what i like to do- but firstlky i must say i defer to roy and other more experienced bowyers here- but this is what Bert Frelink told me to do- to rough out your belly wood, then rough out your bamboo to slightly oversize to your belly wood- then you can see a lot more accurately what thickness you are getting- you just have to be carefiul during glue up, that nothing shifts. it has worked really well for me.
see what the other guys have to say
Ol' Roybert Redford is up to it again! He is the bamboo backed man. Do what he says and you will have a BBO turkey bow. Meausure the center thickness. As you taper the boo's width down it will thicken up. Dont sweat it if the edges get a touch "sharp". Try 50 grit on a good sanding block for leveling the surface for glue and removing material rather quickly.
Sounds good PD... do you use a caliper or something to measure it. Spanky new to this
Look here lots of GREAT info! http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe1.htm
Also I am going to be doing a BBI buildalong very soon that will help. Keep an eye out for it.
hope this helps!
tenbrook
I'm going to be devouring these BBO and BBI build alongs... Then trying one or two myself!
tenbrook..... that site is awesome. full of info..........
Anybody tried thinning bamboo out (rough) with a power planer and then finish up with a belt sander?
ask ber frelink- a sponsor on here, and an awesome bow builder about his experience of thinning boo with a jointer i think it was, oh.. and the hospital time and the time away from bow building and shooting etc etc.
unless you have exactly the right power too- i know i dont have!!
stick to hand tools as much as you can.
I use a jointer set at 1/8th inch cut to thin the boo down to a flat surface on the belly side. Jointers are very dangerous and will remove fingers in the blink of an eye. I use the push blocks to control the boo as I work it down. Once the belly side is flat I trace my bow pattern onto it and cut that out on a bandsaw. Then I thin the boo down to 1/8 th thick at the handle and taper it to 1/16th thick at the tips. I do this on a belt sander, and again I use push blocks to control the boo. I try to get the boo to a butter knife edge along the sides. Also if there are any thinner spots on the back of the boo, I am real careful not to make that area too thin.
One tip here Justin, if you look at the nodes on the boo, you will notice that the space between them gets longer compared to one end to the other end. You want the end with the nodes closer together to be your bottom limb. You will also have to align the boo on your pattern and you will either have a node centered in the handle or a node equaly spaced one way or the other at your flares. You can slide the boo one way or the other to decide, then mark the exact center of the boo with the exact center of your pattern. Then trim off the ends of the boo to match the pattern, leaving yourself an extra 1/4 inch to play with.
Once your bow pattern is cut out of the boo, center it on your slat and run a tight string down the center of the boo to keep it straight. I measure from the string to both side edges of the boo all along the bow to get it perfectly straight. Clamp the boo down on the slat and then cut little thin blocks of wood and glue them along the sides of the boo to hold it straight when you glue it up like below.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6952.jpg)
When you glue up the bow, be sure to place padding between the clamps and back of boo and also on the belly side of the wood. This protects the boo and wood from getting crimped from the pressure of the clamps. A thin piece of wood will suffice. The boo is the most critical so protect it well, otherwise the clamps will cause damage and cause it to splinter later on in the tillering process.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6963.jpg)
So I worked more on my bow tonight... Made a new pattern on some stiffer wood.
Question for you folks... Anyone have a Z splice pattern for the band saw.... I attempted free hand and they seemed to match up. Gave them a little tap and crack... Ran a crack down the center of one about an inch and a half past it.
Figures I would have problems... Any time I pick up a piece of wood there is issues....UGH!!!
Roy, what a messy shop you have ;) Looks like one could eat off that floor. And thanks for the tip. Bue--.
Justin, live and learn. I have done the same thing. You can't push them together too hard. Once I get a Z splice close,I use a rasp to finish it up and just snug them together with a very light tap.
The little crack should be fine, get some urac in it and it will have boo and the riser covering it when done.
Z splice, find the center of the board, measure up 4 inches on each end and draw a line, then connect the points like shown.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_5571-1.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_5575.jpg)
Thanks Roy... Here are some pictures of me laying the ground work on the back of the boo.
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0089.jpg)
I am going to use a file and fix my Z splice after lunch with my girlfriend and will post a picture of what I got
Well the pattern and your boo look very good so far, you must have a good teacher:) But your center line drawn on the pattern is off to the left on this end. Ya might wanna fix that before it leads you down the wrong trail..
Looks good, except for the bench. WAY too clean! :thumbsup:
I noticed that too roy as I traced it on the boo... Ended up making a new pattern out of stiffer wood. I used Lattus work for this pattern and it was too floppy and made the lines move.
Here is the boo cut out with the new pattern...
I think it looks better. I just used a small block plane to clean up the sides.
I still need to work down the fades and handle area...
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0093.jpg)
Atta boy, gold star so far.
Sooooo my Z slpicing shows my rookie mistakes... Am I able to save it or not...
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0096.jpg)
You can see the split in the middle along with my awesome gaps going on...
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Me trying to do my best to get the Z splice cleaned up
Z splice isn't bad Justin, you are going to clamp it together across the splice anyways and it will pull right together. Plus when the bow is cut out all you really end up with is the center cut and a little 1 inch length of each angled cut. I'd go for it but spread that crack apart just a tad and get some urac down into it. Your riser will be 13 1/2 long so there will be plenty of solid wood out over and past that crack plus the boo on the back side. Below is what will be left after cutting out the bow.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_0096.jpg)
OK ROY... will glue it up tomorrow... I know there is a special way to mix the URAC... any tips on this...lol
LOL
1 part powder to 2 parts liquid by volume. If you have a grain scale it's 13 grains of powder to 100 grains of liquid. Urac is bullet proof stuff so don't be afraid of the volume method. Then just stir it around for a couple minutes, coat every surface that will come together, clamp the z splice across with 3 clamps and down flat also with a couple clamps onto a hard surface. Wrap the glue joint first with freezer paper with the waxy side towards the glue. Put the bow where it will be 70 degrees for about 8 - 12 hours. Wouldn't hurt to place thin 1/4 or 1/2 thick boards on each side of the splice and clamp them up against the slat. And the same thing on top. This puts even pressure all the way around instead of pressure just where the clamps would be, ya dig? :)
I dig it Roy... I don't have a grain scale but lucky for me my buddy owns the local archery shop so a quick stop there and I will be in business... Posting Tomorrow after a long midnight shift at work!!!
I'd use a thin viscocity superglue on that crack instead of urac. It's cracked beyond what you can see. Thin superglue will follow it to the very end, urac won't.
Make sure you get that boo adequately thinned... and both gluing surfaces perfectly flat, or better yet, a tiny bit convex, as well as roughed-up with a file, saw blade or something.
Good point Jeff on the super glue.
Roy, a question on glueing the boo on the osage. Do you glue the boo onto the osage board before cutting the bow profile on the osage?
Yes. You glue on the boo, then when it's dry you glue on the riser, then cut out the bow when that's dry..
Thanks, Roy. I haven't tried boo yet, but have some.
Bowhuntin, thanks for this thread. I wouldn't have thought of some of these points if left on my own.
The reason for gluing the riser on after the boo/Osage is dry is because the bow get's a deflex/reflex shape from the form, so the riser area has a slight curve to it. You lay your 13.5 inch riser piece down on it's side and lay the bow along it's edge and trace out the slight curve, then cut that curve out of the riser block and fit it up to the belly of the bow. Takes some rasping to get it perfect but not much.
Thanks, Roy. That explains something I've had issues with... Hum. Now I'm glad I didn't get to glue up my trade bow tonight. I usually glue up everything at once.
Ok I finally made it to my local archery shop to use there grain scale to mix up the Urac... Made a glue table down in my basement and put it all together...
First made sure the entire thing was straight and then clamped it to m (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0097.jpg)y board..
Next added three clamps along the splice
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0100.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0103.jpg)
Then added a lamp over the splice to add some light heat for the waiting period to begin
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0105.jpg)
Now time to wait....wait... wait...
OH and oder a toothing plane thanks to Ma!!!
Justin, I gotta give ya an A+... :)
Great student due to a great teacher!!! Thanks Roy... just ordered my toothing plane
Ya get the one I showed ya?
Great build so far! And this must be your first build...those clamps don't even have chips in the paint yet. Lol
Yes Roy just ordered it and will be here on Tuesday... Psychmonky this is my second build LOL
So tonight I pulled off the clamps and unwrapped my first splice with excitement to see how it came out. I was impressed that the splice wasn't as bad as I thought...BUT... my crack from focing the two slats grew and I think I lost this... Oh well I learned not to force them together and will cut and glue up a new one tomorrow since I figured I would have problems and ordered two pairs of slats
Here is the crack that grew from an inch to about three now!!!
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0109.jpg)
That sucks Justin. Most likely you had the z-splice fit too tight. There should be a very slight gap between the surfaces. Maybe 1/64th of an inch. The freezer paper worked slick didn't it? I would cut that z-splice apart, being very careful cutting to save the end that did not crack, then you can always use it for another bow in the future. You can save the cracked piece for riser material or something else.
Glue a riser on and keep going.
If I were hard pressed for bow wood Pearl, that is what I would do. But that crack would always be in the back of my mind every time I shot that bow:)
I agree with pearl, glue on a hondle and keep going, but I will add to soak it with the thin super glue first. I'd put money on it never blowing up. Besides, we are all hard pressed for bow wood. If we weren't we wouldnt still be getting more. :biglaugh:
I would use it too, but didn't wanna say that to a rookie bowyer:)
Awww, Roy does have a soft side. I knew that bottle was yours!
Hey if you salty bowyers say run with this and keep using it thats what I plan on doing... Tonight I will make up a caul and soak the hell out of the crack!!! pictures to follow.... Thanks guys!!!
I find that Walmart superglue is .99 for a four pack and it works for everything i need it for. I wont spend more than .25 a tube. imo
I have some super thin glue and have it under the lamp right now... gonna clean up the urac and work on my caul tonight... thanks DVS for the re assuring me that this thing will not blow!!! :D
Go for it Justin, what's the worse that could happen? KAPOW:)
I would be so upset... I wanna get one of these ready and I only have a two months before turkey season... plus I need to match arras and such!!
THE PRESSURE...THE PRESSURE!!!!
Two months is a lot of time.
Well I am gonna leave these slats alone for right now and cut up two more... glue them up tonight and hope I don't make the same mistake twice... Toothing plane should be in Wednesday!
Atta boy, use them on the next bow.
So this Z splice came out much better... No crack and in the clamps as we speak!!!
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/429545_2947593601541_1012344494_32295298_635922079_n.jpg)
Finish that other one out you chicken! Ol' Roybert Redford's gotcha' running scared now. I wish I could work on an osage bow that doesnt have a crack or cracks somewhere in it.
Nice splice Justin.
Thanks Roy... I just took it out of the clamp and it came out awesome! Now onto the next steps of cleaning it up and gathering the supplies for the caul tonight... any suggestions on what type of wood to gather?
Birch plywood is good stuff. Little pricey though. I don't use a caul, I use 3 posts, you have seen the pictures. Maybe someone else can tell you what other wood is good for a caul.
I do the same as Roy...a 2x4 with three posts. One in the center, two at the tips.
Go with what Roy and Kate are using for your project. The caul you speak of works better for hetta shaping stave bows.
Got my post caul all made up tonight with the specs that Roy gave me... I will upload pictures later. For some reason my SD card reader isn't reading...
Looking forward to the pictures Justin. Did you save all of my instructions?
So this past week I cut out new slats and then made this post caul... This weekend I plan on thinning my boo and getting the bow glued up.
Here is some pictures of my progress this week...
I clamped the two slats together belly to back to keep everything lined up which seemed to work great for my second attempt
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0112.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0111.jpg)
My caul... I have to just make one more mid limb post due to my rush I made the center and mid limb post backwards...OOPS!
Oh an my NEW toothing plane
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(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0115.jpg)
I plan on mapping out different lengths on the base so that I can slide the post to different positions for different length bows and then I am going to attach it to a 2x4 on the base!!!
Tonight I feel like I made some progress...
1. Used the toothing plane and cleaned up the Z splice and the entire slats...
2. Planed down the BOO to 1/8 handle and about 1/16 to the tips...
3. Glued on scraps of wood along the boo outline onto the slats
Here are some picutres!!!
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0117.jpg)
One side
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0118.jpg)
Other side
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0119.jpg)
Entire lenght... The tips are lined up and I measured along the entire thing
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0123.jpg)
The more I look at the bow and watch the BBO DVD I think that this first one will be a straight limb bow... seems I should start off easy instead of attempting a R/D right out of the gate
Another thing I did not do yet is a belly taper but since this is going to be a straight limb bow I don't think that I will run into any flat spots RIGHT?
Ok so I got everything glued up tonight... added a 1/8 accent strip of rosewood in the handle. Went with a straight limb design for the first...
Here it is all clamped up!!!
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(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0125.jpg)
It is now resting comfortably in the hottest room in the school... the boiler room where it is 85 degrees!!!
Well the bow is out of the caul how does it look?
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0134.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0133.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0132.jpg)
Tomorrow I plan on cutting the outline and starting on shaping the bow up!!!
Justin those tips look pretty wide, how wide are they? And it appears you don't have much taper from the fades to the tips. Not much reflex either, will prolly have some set after tillering. It looks nice and straight though.
Roy I measured my tips and they are 5/8 wide and the taper is about an 1/8 inch as per the DVD... I am nervous about removing too much wood at the beginning I figured I would leave the tips a touch wide and then use a block plane to make them the 1/2 after the glue up.... I watched the DVD three times one night and Dean talked about a straight limb taking a little set but being a sweet shooting hunting bow.. Since this is what I am going for and I have never tillered a R/D bow I figured for the first to take it slow and simple... KISS! Thanks for the compliments though... Been a fun but nail bitting experience!
Also I think I used enough GLUE LOL!!!
Lol my wife would chop my bow into little pieces if I glued it together on her countertop.
Bow is looking great. Keep us posted.
Nevermimd. Im really tired. I know u did this at school....just couldn't access that info in my brain for some reason.
Its ok... been working on it since I had to move and my new shop area isn't ready and wont be for quite some time... should have the bow cut out tomorrow and more pictures to follow.. thanks for the compliment
Ok I'll take your word for it:) Just remember you want a straight line taper from that 1 1/4" wide 6" inch line I told you about to 1/2" wide at the tips. Yes a bow with a little set is a nice shooting bow.
Tonight had a little bit of a set back... Cut out the slats to the outline of the boo and in the handle had a chunk of rosewood fly out where a knot was... DUH!!!
Ended up slicing the handle section off and re toothing the slat to attatch another osage handle blank that I got from Roy a while ago!
Back in glue up!!!
LOL Justin, that's bow making. Keep at it dude.
Ok guys been working on the tiller... Kinda seems flat on the left limb? Need some advice on where to remove some wood... It is 50lbs at 25 inches so I am getting close... Looking to be about 50 at 28 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0144.jpg)
Little more tweaking on the tiller... Looks better to me?
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(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0145.jpg)
Left limb looks very nice, right limb seems to be bending a bit too much where it's circled. I'd take some wood off just to the left of that circle and also mid limb. Have you ran the gizmo down the limbs while locked down like in the picture? The left limb could bend just a tad more right out of the flare.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/justinbow.jpg)
Yes Roy I have been using the gizmo but it doesn't really work near the fades so I have been working on those by eye... I will work on that right limb some more hopefully today!!!
Finished up my BBO bow tonight!!!
It came out three times better than I ever thought that it would... thanks to all of your input and advice expecially ROY! You ROCK!!!
It came out to 64 ttt and 62 ntn 45@28 inches.
Next is to match some arras and get out there turkey hunting in two weeks!!!
Comments welcomed!
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0149.jpg)
COCO tip overlays
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0151.jpg)
Handle
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0153.jpg)
Handle 2
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_0157.jpg)
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Thanks again all..good luck this spring hunting!!!
Congrats on the shooter, good luck on your hunt!
Purty dog gone nice Justin, congrats.
Very Nice, looks like a killer!
very nice! I have been wanting to try that combination out myself but never have any osage slats... Tiller looks great on it! :)