Has anyone tried to use this to make bows? I bought a 3/4" x3 1/2" board.When I first saw this stuff, they wanted 20 bucks a lin. ft. Since they couldn't sell any at that price I got it for $2.50 a lin. ft. so I thought I would experiment with it. Had to buy an 8' board. I cut it to 6' and used the 2' piece to do some tests. Cut a piece 1 3/4" by 1/8" like backing. I can bend this piece into a circle with no cracking. Seems like fair backing material Anybody backed a bow with it? Does it make good core wood? If you have any insight about using this stuff I would love to know your opinion. Thanks, in advance, for your help.
I've used it for cores but not for backing. I don't think you can use if for backing cause of the exposed fibers. Are they laminated virtical or horizonal? I've only messed with the horizinal type and it made a good core. Its called action boo.
This board is laminated vertically. Seems pretty good from the test I did.
Back it or it will blow up on you.
Laminated bamboo makes a good core for a glass bow but is not strong enough to stand alone. It is not strong in compression so backing it will probably result in a failed limb due to fretting.
James
I've just glued a thin strip of laminated boo to the back of a yew bow.It will take a day or two to cure.I will let you know the results.I use the trial and error method of learning so if it don't work,no big deal.
I have seen a lot of laminated boo bows backed with natural boo and no glass, they take a pretty good set but they do perform well.
It seems to work as backing. Maybe I'me just lucky. Got it tillerd to 40# @ 24" and the boo backing looks sound. If I can get it finished without pulling a splinter on the back I will consider this a success. No issues so far.
might be good with a really light silk baking to retain the integrity of the boo- while the boo does most of the work.
can the back be boned at least-that will help some.
make sure your edges are well rounded- thats where the splinters like to start.
I was careful to feather the backing out to the edges of the yew. Everything sanded real smooth before I started bending the wood. Not my first rodeo. Broke lots of wood before I knew how to be careful. Still learning and still experimenting. If it breaks, I learn and try something else. So far this one looks like it might work. Would love to hunt the Charlottes again. Too many deer tags makes my head spin.
yuppers- shes pretty grand up here.
hey- we gotta set up one of those bowbuilding weekends somewhere in bc. like those guys did down in mo.
trade staves and other materials- make friends-do a little stumping- whatever- make it a 4 day event!!??
I have used thin lams ( 1/8" )cut from bamboo flooring for bellys with good results. I have 2 tri lam bows in the 50# range that have hundreds of shots through them without any signs of fretting or splintering.
When I cut up a floorboard I'm careful to avoid any voids or bad spots that are in most boards. Then I do a complete dry run and clamp all the components on the form to make sure they will bend into the form without any problems. I also flex the lams by hand before using them. If they're no good they'll break then.
Dave.
I have got this bow shooting. About 30 shots at full draw. Seems to be holding up ok but I am still nervous. I made this bow for my brother and its left handed. Makes it real hard for me to shoot. The weight is kinda high yet but with the set it is taking i figure it might lighten up some so I don't want to do any more scraping til it is shot in. New to this site, so I haven't yet got the pic thingfigured out. I'll get some up as soon as I can
Broken. Shoulda listined to the advivce I got here but I just gotta find out for my self. Gave up at a node. Live and learn.
Seems I always learn the hard way. Got my next bow started and you can bet I will make a different mistake on this one