I've been experimenting with different designs but they all have had pretty strong R/D. I decided to try a milder design but keep a bit of reflex flair at the tips to keep them stiff. For once I hit the profile & weight right off the bat.
This is the first one off the form and she is behaving nicely! Argentine osage & bubinga riser, red elm cores, & pretty bubinga veneers (thanks Kenny). 53# @ 28", 62", .400" stack with .004" taper. I finished it pretty flat but I might shine her up a bit since there's a little bling going on.
(http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/GBPHunt/OsageBubingabow.jpg)
How about some pictures of you new form?
That is a nice looking bow. I like th ewood combo's along with the subtle curves.
Very nice, I really like your balance of curves.
Very nicely done.
Wooooweeeeeeee...that is slicker than snot on a glass door knob.
I'll give you $100 for the bow. :biglaugh: That's an impressive looking bow. I'd say you're new form is going to work out just fine.
Looks real good...flat included.
Very nice!
Thanks guys! I'll post a pic of the form after it gets out of rehab. I had to straighten it as it took a bit of curve after it was cut out. I heated it up and tweaked it straight before glue-up, but after cooking it went back to crooked. Luckily the bow came out straight. I have the form clamped up learning to be straight at the moment. It's made from of 3/4" good grade plywood and the original sheet had a little bend. I figured if I laminated it with the bends opposing one another they would cancel each other out...didn't work. I like the form and don't want to build it again so worst case I'll run some angle iron down the sides to make it see things my way.
Good old angle iron....
I really like Your tips. Man that seems strange to say out loud. HA HA
Could You elaborate how You put them together?
I'd say she is worth a shine. Good looking bow. How do you like the .004 taper?
Hard to say on the taper. I've been using powerlams but would like avoid them for simplicity. With the flare at the tips, .004 seems about right. If I went with less taper I think I would need a longer riser (18" currently) or a power lam to push the working section out a bit. Any more taper and I think my string angle would get towards 90deg too soon.
Might experiment a bit.
Gorgeous bow!
Your bow has really nice lines and the tips turned out really well. It would look nice to add some shine to that bling.
-Jay
Here's a pic at 28". Camera angle isn't perfect - the limbs do have the same profile.
Any ideas on taper, P-lam or tip wedges are welcome. Shoots nice, but I like experimenting.
(http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/GBPHunt/osagebububgadrawnandriser.jpg)
"Any more taper and I think my string angle would get towards 90deg too soon."
That was my thought as well
How long is your PL? I use a PL 22-24" with an 18" riser depending on bow lenght on my longer R/D with a similar profile. Longer riser with an 18" block of wood. I prefer grinding my fades with the drum sander rather than by hand. Saves me a considerable amount of time.
Didn't see the full draw pic before I posted. Your tips look good.Your limbs are working well. You could try a TW to get a stiffer tip(although your string angle is good with what you have) and a little more bend mid limb.
I use an 003 taper with TW and PL now. Might have to give 004 a try. Thought I was done playing with this design THANKS :knothead:
You did a great job,heck of a bow!
Ernie
Here is a 58" with the superlam in it Don.
28" draw
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/POA%20%20trade%20%20bow/002.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/POA%20%20trade%20%20bow/003.jpg)
29" draw
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/POA%20%20trade%20%20bow/006.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/POA%20%20trade%20%20bow/007.jpg)
It actually drew 29.5 before string reached 90* and over 30" before DFC showed signs of stacking.
This little bow has 10 big game kills, including deer , hogs, and bear. All at 38# at his DL :cool:
This bow has no power lam or tip wedge. I usually build the first one without either to see what it looks like. I've used 22"-28" on other designs. Without a thickness sander, building nice consistent PLs and TWs is a slow process for me. I may need to try a Super Lam if you are offering them Kenny. Thats a great profile!
Awesome job....I love those mild R/Ds
What I like most about the SL is less stuff to deal with when greased with EA-40! LOL
QuoteOriginally posted by bretto:
I really like Your tips. Man that seems strange to say out loud. HA HA
Could You elaborate how You put them together?
Sorry, saw this question a month ago and forgot to respond. The accent tips are a very involved process that an old bowyer showed me after swearing an oath of...
Ok, actually they are dirt simple. Just left over pieces of the riser accent. I cut them from a piece of scrap when I'm squaring up my riser block after its glued (if its wide enough to shave a 1/8th" off) or use scrap from cutting out the belly fades when I cut the riser shape out of the block.
These had 1/8" phenolic under them.
Great looking bow Glunt.
A short PL may be the trick here, but I wouldnt put in a tip wedge based on the profile seen there. The reflex is enough it seems.
dave