This bow is being a pain. Had deflex in left limb. Heated to try to reduce it but it just wouldn't come out. Flipped the tip as a back up plan...went to far and cracked the belly. The crack in the belly is almost gone now. I think it will disappear by the time tillering is done.
Specs as of now are as follows: 68 in ntn. 1.75 in wide for 2/3 of the limb tapering to 1/2 inch tips. Right now I got it pulling 45 lbs at 18 inches. Maybe you guys can help me figure out where to go from here. It's hickory.
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If your limbs are equal lengths w/handle centered I believe I would designate the right limb as the bottom. Then start pulling by hand to set the bow's tiller that best suits your shooting style. Once you have that done all that's left is reducing weight. And since you're using that rectangular limb design it appears your limbs could be a little more eliptical (more scraping mid-limb). So get that done before tugging on the string. No more scraping outer third, you want to keep that area stiff.
That's my approach. Best of luck.......Art
I agree with Artsy somewhat. The left limb would be good for a lower since its a touch stiff. As far as the mid limb movement is concerned. I would get some weight reduced evenly and draw it to 20-22" by hand and feel your way to the finish line. That tree will mess with you badly once you get to where you are now.
I think if that were mine I would reduce weight a little bit more using the gizmo to maintain proper tiller and then strap that thing to a caul and heat treat the belly to a nice medium-dark brown. After that let it sit a few days to hydrate and re tiller. I'd focus more attention to the fade area on the left limb while doing so to try and get the limbs even. A caul and heat treating can induce some reflex back into it at the same time. Worth a shot as Hickory does well with toasting.
Best method for determining which limb is which is to simply build the bow as it stands in the tree. Whether the lower limb is deflexed/reflexed/straight it'll always be the strongest limb of the two. No matter the profile of the upper limb.
Art,
Lost track of which way it came from the tree. As it stands I was considering the left limb for the bottom but not really sure yet. I done another bow not too long ago that had the same problem and if it was on the tree in the same orientation I made it's right limb the bottom and it's worked out really well...so that may be the better option like you said.
Affirmitive on leaving the outer third alone.
Reduce weight midlimb, check.
Nimrod,
I may do some more heat treating. Done a light heat treat at the floor tiller stage to try to reduce the deflex in the limb but it didn't work, maybe I didn't toast it enough.
Thanks guys, Keep the advice coming. This one is going to a friend who shoots splits finger and shoot 3 under most of time so I'll have to tiller that I guess.
Gentleman,
Should I keep my bow (limbs even lenght) centered in the tree or should I shift it to one side about 1 inch toward the bottom limb?
QuoteOriginally posted by briarjumper12:
Gentleman,
Should I keep my bow (limbs even lenght) centered in the tree or should I shift it to one side about 1 inch toward the bottom limb?
Depends on how you grip the bow and whether you shoot split fingers or three under. For three under and a medium grip dead center works fine. But for split fingers and a medium grip I generally hook closer to the heel side of the handle. But if you really want to get it dead on, pull that string by hand.
Couple things you can check for to see how your bow stood in the tree. First, larger rings=stump end. Thinner/narrower limb=stump end. Limb that takes the least set=stump end.
Artsy said, "But if you really want to get it dead on, pull that string by hand."
EXACTLY. Your far enough along that a tree isnt needed anymore. Your bow can look like a fiberglass replica on the tree and feel and shoot like crap when you draw it by hand.
10-4 Gents. Will be drawing by hand from here on out.
It looks to me like the right limb is a tad stiffer than the left....Art said the same but Pearly disagrees? Is it because of the deflex already in the limb unbraced Pearl?
I mispoke myself Nate, boss must have been over my shoulder? The right limb is a tad stiffer on the tree, but that all changes drawn by hand.
Okay that makes sense...just thought that maybe it really was based on the natural deflex of the limb and measured limb movement...a plausible theory to a guy still learning about selfbows. I have NOT built that many of THOSE.
Got tillered down so i can draw it to full draw now. Worked the mid limb and some in the fades. Got a ways to go though cause I get to get it all the way 28.