Have a roughed out blank from this past summer and want to start working on it. Limbs have some bends in them but the string runs through the handle when I tape a string along the back of the bow (has some reflex in it). This would be my 2nd finished bow so I am very green!
Would you suggest trying to straighten the limbs out or tiller it the way it is.
If you think staightening is the way to go, steam it or use dry heat?
Thanks for the advice!!!
Mitch
Green Ash cut last March, roughed out in June and drying in the garage since then. 61" tip to tip.
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/12-27-11006.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/12-27-11009.jpg)
2 things;
First, if the string lines up with the tips and the handle leave it alone and tiller as is.
Second, a rule that I have heard said here on many ocassions is wet heat for wet wood, dry heat for dry wood. Not sure if that is a hard rule but many believe it.
I'm not far ahead of you, Mitch, but I would think you need to get to at least a low brace height to get a better idea of tip-handle-tip alignment.
I would build your bow as is. That aliggment is great. That wood should be plenty dry. Ash dries very fast up here.
Looks good.....go with it.
Thanks for the quick advice guys - sounds like I will start tillering tomorrow and see how it goes.
let us know how it turns out for you. That is a great looking start.
Will do Kelly - thanks.
You really can't tell how the string will line up until first brace. Once the string is under tension it will show it's true alignment.
If the stave is seasoned, dry heat would be the best. I haven't worked much ash so I'm not really sure if i works better with dry heat or steam. If you steam it seal the area to be steamed with shellac. This will prevent the moisture from the steam from entering the wood which can cause checking as it dries.
My trade bow appeared to need a tweaking prior to a short brace. Once I got it short braced it came around nicely and I never had to touch it. I LOVE when that happens.
Final straightening I would do right before shooting in. Unless severe corrections are needed, then right after first brace.
Oh, just me, but I would've pryamid shaped those limbs because of that dogleg.
Thanks for the suggestions Art - I really appreciate you guys taking the time! Just so I can learn...what advantage does the pyramid style give with that type of dogleg?
Thanks again.
Mitch
Parallel limbs such as yours require an elliptical tiller for best efficiency.
A pyramid limb design would have shifted the greater strain closer to the handle (circular tiller) and lightening that dogleg section in mass weight.
Thanks Art. I am still learning the terminology. I checked the vocabulary for newbies for "parallel limbs but not there. I am assume it means a limb that does not taper until mid-limb or so and then tapers to the tip?
Mitch
That's correct Mitch. Rectangular limbs would have been the proper term I believe since we're discussing shapes.
Slowly and surely been working on this bow. I made a set of pillar tiller like Shaun showed a while ago and experimented with them to a low brace and then moved to the tree.
The one limb with the dog leg and hump(left in brace pic and upper in others) has been a bit challenging...but I got it braced at about 7" and right at 50# and 27". Been shooting and exercising the wood and it has taken a small set (my limited experience says green ash always will)but not too bad.
Also tried my first tip overlays - used some antler had laying around and took advice from many of the posts on here!
Anyway, any advice on the current tiller? And appreciate you guys helping! I am hoping to learn enough to pass that help on.
Thanks
Mitch
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/bow2004.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/bow2009.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/bow2008.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/bow2011.jpg)
It looks really good to me. Shooting it will reveal more about its "balance". Tweak it from there if you want it perfect. You done good.
Looks great to me.
Excellent! Well done. Jawge
Looking good Mitch! Does both limbs feel well balanced when drawing? I like to remove the rear shoulder of the string groove to prevent any wear/pinching on the string's loop.
Very nice work.
Thanks guys - haven't shot it a lot yet - haven't even made a string yet - but shooting it with the tillering string, it seems to shoot pretty decent.
Art - sorry to show my ignorance - but are you saying to remove some wood in the groove toward the tip of the bow?
"Art - sorry to show my ignorance - but are you saying to remove some wood in the groove toward the tip of the bow?"
That's correct Mitch. Gives the loop more free play as you come to full draw and cut down on wear.
Might give that a try - thanks.
Finished this bow today - put on the leather grip. I ended up trying some rawhide. Had to learn to scrape and dry a hide from a fawn I shot in the late season and then used it to back this bow. That took awhile!!! Ended up with some marks in the hide from wrapping it too tight I think. Stained it a "wine" color and finished with tru-oil.
Thanks for the help. She shoots pretty good.
Mitch
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/winebow014.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/winebow013.jpg)
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/mosborn1007/winebow012.jpg)
Your bow turned out really nice Mitch. Congratulations!
Gorgeous!
Well done.
Yep,, good job! :thumbsup:
Good job Mitch! The stain job came out really well, keep up the good work....Dan
Great work Mitch!!! Two thumbs up!
Thanks guys - it has been very satisfying learning how to make a bow. I really appreciate the help from you experts!!
We are going to show the 4-H archery kids the basics of making a self bow next month at our spring 3-D shoot. Maybe we can get a few kids interested in making some bows!!!
Mitch
Nice!!
Dave.