(http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/tlholder86/DSCN02712.jpg)
How does it look? It's at a 5" brace and pulled to 21".
When are the mid limbs going to finally give up and start bending????
All comments appreciated.
It's hard to say completely without a resting and braced photo as well. For what I see it is bending to much right out of the fades. Both limbs look stiff just shy of mid limb.
Im no R/D wizz, but that looks like permanent damage to those fades to me? The mids are dead flat and I think maybe that going to 21" already wasnt a good thing. As Keenan said, get those mids moving before you pull that far again or you will loose all your "R" and be left with a bunch of "D".
Ok Im not gonna lie, I cringed when I saw that pic. You gotta get something bending besides the fades before you pull it any farther. Start scrapin wood off from the hinges out and you should be able to get em worked out. Might take quite a bit of scrapin before you see any difference. Take 10- 15 scrapes off each limb, exercise it and and check it and then do it again until the midlimbs start movin. Not sure how much weight you are goin for so it may come in a little lighter than you wanted. It would help to see an unstrung pic to see what kind of r/d profile it has. :)
Yea I cringed at that pic too. FAR too much going on near the fades and you are definatly going to have a light bow when all said and done. I floor tiller it when real heavy and make sure I see movement all across the limbs before putting a long string on and that is only for a short time to verify the bending and bring poundage down some. Once I'm happy tiller isn't too far off I move onto brace height and really pay attention and go slow.
My first r/d ende up being 30# at 20"
Good luck with it they are tuff to tiller
R/D bows are tough to tiller the first time, but I noticed the handle doesn't look like you're doing a R/D bow. It looks like a stiff/straight handled bow. Maybe that threw you off?
James Parker of Huntworthy Productions taught me to tiller a true R/D from the tips inward, which is generally backwards of, say, an American flatbow. It helps to prevent the very circumstance you find yourself in. It's much easier to catch up the inner 1/3 of a bow's limb than the outer 2/3. Hope that helps some. :)
When I tiller r/d bows, I expect and watch for the reflex to start coming out of the outer limb area first. As that begins to happen, I then expect to see the mid limb area begin to bend and so forth right into the fade area. I guess just like 4est described.
But however you tiller a wooden bow, one thing you need to keep in mind is that you do not want the limbs bending too much in any one area. Looking at you picture above, tells me your limbs were way too stiff to start with. Floor tillering first would help prevent your situation. You may as well keep going for expeirence and see how the bows turns out.
How 'bout an unbraced side and back pic. Your tiller could be dead perfect or dead wrong. Without those other profiles all we can do here is speculate.
What profile would require that tiller Artsy?
Prolly one of them WV hill billy bows:)
It's pretty common for R/D bows to look really hingy at the fades at first. Just keep working from midlimb on out. She'll come around.
Depending on how much deflex there is at the handle, it's possible the near handle wood isn't bending at all. Get an unbraced pic up here so we can help some more.
(http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/tlholder86/DSCN02722.jpg)
Unbraced. Hope this helps.
I know most of you guys "cringed" but honestly i'm not too worried about it. I don't think it's hinged at the fades....yet!
Thanks for the advice fellas. I like the idea of working from the tips, inward.
Thanks for the pic BK.
I thought maybe there might be a couple slight natural kinks coming out of the fades. Honestly, I think you're pretty close to where you need to be. That's a very quick design, maintaining it could be problematic because of your srtaight back handle and sharp fades.
More bending mid-limb and you could lose the lever effect you now have. A real balancing act for sure.
Oh Pearly, that profile you asked about would be similar to that world record flight bow sitting on my wall. Gifted to me by Steve Gardner (Badger) and shown on Page 103 of the TBB4. :goldtooth:
We like our bows fast Roy Bob!
I was actually serious this time Artsy. I was curious what the width profile would need to look like. I dont have TBB4......boo
Limbs would need to be pyramidal IMO Pearly. That would help reduce limb weight outside the bending area.
These limbs are pyramid, 2" wide @ the fades, and flat growth rings that allow the back to be perfectly flat. This is why i'm not concerned about how it looks at the moment. I'm pretty sure this bow will be able to take a lot of strain. I hope. Thanks for the pointers, i'll post another when I get a chance to scrape on it some more.
Unbraced profile doesn't look bad at all. I can see why the braced drawn profile looks like it does. Just get some bend in them limbs:)
What kind of weight is it holding at that 21"?
50# @ 27". I need to get to 29". Do you guys think I should flip the tips or proceed as is? I'm worried about the 90 degree angle I'm about to get when I go to 29". The bow is 60" long, pyramid 2" wide to 1/2" tips.
(http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/tlholder86/DSCN0285.jpg)
There's something about the right limb that bothers me but the gizmo says they're good!
I got restless and flipped the tips. I hope the limbs can handle the added strain.
Wow, Tyler, I never would have bet you could get to there from what I saw in that first picture! It's looking good @ 27". Any pics of the flipped tips yet?
How's that Kanati treating you? I got too picky this season again and ate tag soup, but I had some fun hunts. The older I get the less not making a kill bothers me for some reason. I do miss the venison though.
I'm working on a hickory board bow right now. Not quite ready to post pics yet, but I did shoot a dozen or so arrows through it in the garage a while ago. Still tweaking the grip. It's about 66 1/2" nock to nock, pyramid profile with a Hill style grip. It came out 47# @ my 27" draw. It's got a little more set than I'd hoped. I hit my target weight, but I don't know how much I'll lose as it breaks in. I backed it with an old silk necktie. I thought it was an ugly tie but it's actually got kind of a camo look to it on the bow. I was going to paint it, but I'm not so sure now. I'll get some pics posted in a day or two.
Nice job on the R/D!
Russ i'll post pics when i'm done shaping. I just glued on some maple underlays for reinforcement at the curve.
I bounced back and forth between the kanati and a bow KennyM built for me last year. They both shoot very similar so I felt comfortable switching. Oh, I'll join you in cold bowl of tag soup.
Let's see a picture of the necktie bow!
Is it possible for this bow to be tillered out to 29"? It's 60" long. Also looking for input on tiller, I still don't have a good eye for it.
(http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/tlholder86/DSCN0287.jpg)
Can you draw reference lines on that bare wall? It would give us newbies something to compare to! lol.
The static tips seem to have helped though...to me it still appears stiff mid-limb...I'm REALLY new to this though so take it for what its worth.
Scott
Looks like a stiff mid limb on the right side. I wouldnt want to pull that bow past 26-27". My concern wouldnt be it breaking, it would a TON of set rather. The gizmo is a nice tool but its not 100% reliable for every tiller style, or bows that arent perfectly flat. Sometimes you need to let your eyes tell you what to do.
Yup, looks a touch stiff midway right limb, otherwise it looks right there:
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/dmikeyj/DSCN0287.jpg)
I have made a couple 60" bows that bend to 29". String angle will be ok with the tips flipped. I'd do it. Definitely give those midlimbs a few more scrapes.
Being 2" wide and pyramid shaped I wouldn't be afraid to open 'er up. Any more bending mid-limd and you'll lose the advantage of your limb design IMO.
Are you drawing by hand yet? If yes, feel any bending in the handle? A little movement there will give you more confidence.