Just received some more wood, most of it is quite good however this board is a bit questionable. For a fiberglass bow, not an issue, but I'm really wanting to get a few bamboo backed all wood bows out of this. What do you learned masters think?
(http://www.kestrelarchery.com/images/DSCF0760.JPG)
(http://www.kestrelarchery.com/images/DSCF0761.JPG)
For bamboo backing shouldn't be a problem. Backing works wonders. I might not push the limits in terms of how short and narrow the bow is but you should be fine.
Bamboo backed IPE makes a great shooter. The bow will have to be narrow to have enough mass in the limbs to keep the bamboo from over powering the IPE. I build mine with 1 1/8th wide limbs.
Thats nice stuff. 1 1/8" is my standard as well. 64-66" ttt for a 28" draw. Be sure the boo is THIN before you glue it on. 1/8" max. Ipe will fret if your not careful.
Lookin to build my first bbi as well. had a bbo that turned out awesome. recently came across some tigerwood too. Might just have to get em both goin
1 1/8th wide. Bit narrower than I was anticipating. 1/8th thick on the boo was what I was planning. How thick and what kind of taper do you run on your Ipe? 14 inch riser?
It's really attractive wood. I've seen many pictures but this is the first I've had it in my hands. The contrast between the Ipe and the boo should make for a really nice looking contrast.
Off to bed to dream of BBI bows :) Thanks guys.
i build all mine 1 1/8 wide at the fades- tapering to 3/8 tips in a pyramid style, with the bend carrying through the handle.
handle 1" wide, by about 4 1/2 long. fades about 2" long each
a leather glue up on the handle area to add some bulk for the grip - but not so as to impede the bending- cork also works well.
this is just what i like for the ipe.
and as pearl says- as tough as the wood is, it does fret easily- so watch that your taper on the belly( tiller!!) is smooth and consistant.
Start with a 1/2" to 3/8" thickness taper of the Ipe ONLYy. Its a god starting point and will leave plenty of wood to remove still. You will be suprised how thin it gets even at 1 1/8" wide.
I have a 55# BBI that is a shade less than an inch in width. One and an eighth should be TOTALLY doable for about any weight you care to get from it.
Where do you guys get you Ipe boards from. I'm out in the sticks and don't have a flooring place to get stuff like this from.
Sorry don't mean to hijack your thread.
For bamboo backing shouldn't be a problem. Backing works wonders. I might not push the limits in terms of how short and narrow the bow is but you should be fine.
Tony higher end lumber yards carry it at times. Its popular deck boarding for the spendy folks.
101woods.com is where I ordered the wood from. I live in the sticks too and don't have any options locally.
Thanks for the advise. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.
Advantage trim & lumber has good ipe I build about 60 ipe bows a year and only one bad board and they sent one free, 1-877-232-3915 on the east coast,and if you order tell them it's for bows and want a straight grain board.
Thanks guys will look into getting some to make some new bows.
As an update, 4 days later here's what I have:
(http://www.kestrelarchery.com/images/1.jpg)
(http://www.kestrelarchery.com/images/3.jpg)
Obviously, still have some tillering work to do. But overall I'm pleased with the outcome so far. At this time the bow is drawing 60# at 28". I used Padauk for the handle and tips. The photograph doesn't do it justice, but the dark Ipe and Orange/red Padauk look nice together. It's taking about a 1/2in set and no obvious signs of imminent failure.
So tilling experts, while this may seem a terribly novice question, how do I fix that hinge on the upper limb?
Careful...you need to work on that left limb some to get it bending more and there appears to be a hinge starting to rear its ugly head in your right limb but I might be having one of those nights where the ole eyes are being tricked by the lines in your brick wall.
This highlights my ignorance.
By my eye, the left (which is the lower) limb is just about correct and the right (upper) limb is hinged
(http://www.kestrelarchery.com/1.jpg)
Advice welcome
Once you get that hinge corrected by removing wood on either side of it you will have to remove wood from the left limb to catch up to it...Others will hopefully chime in and either validate or my opinion or chide me and I will learn something lol.
I agree with the above by the time you get the hinge fixed and the lower limb to match your going to loose a lot of weight.
I've been in the same fix several times. Might as well plan on it being a much light3er bow and try to figure out why the upper limb wanted to hinge.
Ron
How true. Yup your gonna lose some weight as result of correctin the hine but you oughtta end up with a pretty good shooter.
I myself just came across some tigerwood( ipe/teak family) from a deck im working on. So i am glad to see your plank turned out pretty good so far
Thanks guys, after a couple more hours this evening I think I have it. Of course my camera picked this particular time to go on the fritz or I'd post some pictures of the outcome. I did end up losing about 8lbs off the draw. It's 57lbs at 28". I'm happy with that.
As for the mystery of the hinge, that would be my error. I overworked that area, or rather I worked it and worked it to get some bend, no results, then really really worked it and...well hello there hinge. The are of the tiller is going to take quite a few more bows to get a better feel for it.
This is my first decent all wood bow and I'm happy as a pig in slop over it. Can't wait to shoot it :) .