Just a few questions for the bowyer bench pros. I'd like to try a static tip recurve. It'll be out of good ol' sage. I'm looking for around 50 @ 29"
What dimensions should I shoot for? Wide limbs i'm guessing?
How does a guy keep the tips stable? By that I mean, "rolling" to one side or the other during the draw.
That's all for now, i'm still chasing a ring so i've got plenty of time to plan. Thanks!
Rigid or working handle? I finished a working handle static in October. Its 58" ntn, 1 1/8" at the widest. My taper starts about 2/3 limb and goes down to 1/2" wide tips. It pulls 57# @ 28", but I tillered it to 29". Its backed with thin rawhide even though the stave was spotless.
Rigid handle. Are you satisfied with it's performance?
Osage is certainly the right choice for this design IMO. With Osage, even a rigid hanlde will work to a certain extent. That's a plus here.
Any reflex, flipped tips or recurves must be accounted for in limb design. Pearly has his right. Gotta beef up inner limbs which he did. A true pyramid design would hender this design unless the handle works.
Another option is to parallel (a more elliptical braced profile) your limbs to mid-limb and then taper to 1/2" tips. This will provide greater stability/width at the point of recurve.
Stability/non-twisting of the tips is achieved first by selecting the best clear/straight grained osage possible for a clean/aligned bend.
From there minor alignment can be corrected by heat/twisting of the limb (not the tip) and/or wood removal to provide/take out curve lean.
I love that bow Tyler. Once you feel that "thud" from a recurve you built, will want to build many more. As we have all heard many times before, it doesnt take much osage to make a bow. It amazes me how thin the limbs are even at 1 1/8" wide, 57# and so short. I used a quart paint can to make my static form for this bow. The tips where about 5/8 x 3/4 when I steamed and bent them. One hour steam per tip.
I have found that underlays help not only keep a tip static, but keep it stable from lateral movement. Also, if you happen to pop a splinter while bending them, you can always correct the error by thinning the tip and sandwiching the area beneath an underlay. Here's some pictures:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trade%20Bow%20for%20Eric%20Thieman/HPIM5318.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3726.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Maple%20Static%20Recurve/HPIM3653.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4924.jpg)
Also, I'm kind of a "one trick dog." I like to use the pyramid design as much as possible, adapting it for the particular tendencies of the bow being built (short, long, recurved, reflexed, etc.). Below is a 62" static tipped osage bow I built using a straight pyramid design that, when all was said an done, took about 1.25" of set at a 28" draw, but didn't follow the string. I go SLOW in the tillering and get it bending to about four inches shy of the intended draw length. That also gives me a good idea of what the final draw weight will be. (That is, I plot it out on a force-draw curve and then assume it will loose 5#-8# in finishing/shooting in, but gain at least that much back when I bend the tips.) Then I heat treat the belly into a gentle reflex, bending the tips, and retiller out to the intended draw length and bow hand grip (i.e. low heel, high heel, etc.). I find this method to be accurate, easy to replicate, and a fast shooter. The laminate and/or unlayed tips really allow you to keep them narrow with suffering from lateral twisting. Hope that all helps!
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trade%20Bow%20for%20Eric%20Thieman/HPIM5291.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trade%20Bow%20for%20Eric%20Thieman/HPIM5327-Version2.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trade%20Bow%20for%20Eric%20Thieman/HPIM5288.jpg)
4est I love those tips every time I see them.
I'll be watching this thread. Curved tips have been my arch nemesis so I'm sure I'll learn something here.
I love that bow 4est.
Alright fellas. I've still got prep work to do so this thread will probably fade away for a short while.
So to simplify...you start out tillering the bow like a regular longbow, then flip the tips and re-tiller? Sound right?
Art B....I haven't ever came across a clean/straight grained piece of 'sage yet!! However, there is a beautiful stovepipe straight tree that fell over next to the creek....after deer season it's coming home with me!
Rough the bow out close to size, steam the tips and bend in your curves. Then shape and tiller.
Yes, I really like to get the bow bending nicely before I recurve the tips. I leave the tips/outer third a tad stiffer than I normally would, though. Not the only way to do it, just what works for me. :)
Curt do you notice any extra thump in that Grumley style tip? I was curious how the extra weight felt. I have never fully shot one. I have drew (a few times) a REALLY old one I shouldnt have......sorry Chuck.
:scared: :saywhat:
It WAS your bow.
I think that a well tillered bow will not thump the hand,no matter the design. All of the statics that I have shot,be they asian or Grumley in style, have been a joy.
That one 4est posted is a sweet looker. Judging by the tips and tiller I bet she is a joy.
Great looking bow Curt.
CTT
Kind of figured so. Otherwise they wouldnt have made so many and still make so many.
This one turned our to be a real shooter.... Terry
Osage Static Recurve (http://www.bowyersworkshop.com/ppbcombo1.htm)