I have not used Urac 185 before, but would like to try and glue up some riser sections with it. Is it advisable to have smooth planed surfaces or should they be sanded with say 36 or 60 grit.If the riser have curved inlays the surfaces will of course have to be sanded, could Urac be used then or would Epoxy be better. And finally do you heat cure it?
Thanks in advance. Bue--.
Having never glued up a riser with urac I can only answer part of your questions.
I rough up my glue surfaces. You don't need heat to cure urac but you do need a working temperature over 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
i use an old sawzall blade or a coarse hacksaw blade to rough both surfaces.
you can also use a toothing plane- they are just a bit costly that is.
wayne
Like Eric said if not above 70 degrees I throw a blanket over it with one 100 watt bulb under it. I always let it stand over night.
Keep in mind that urac is a good wood glue would not use it with any plastics or glass. I has goods gap filling properties.
Ron
I make my surfaces rough and put it in the oven at 100 degrees for 24 hours just to make sure. I unplug it and leave it for a slow cool down and haven't had any glue problems yet.
If you go to the URAC website, you can get most of your questions answered very specifically. In my own experience, I do not tooth or score the gluing surfaces. I also do not use any additional heat to cure the glue, just room temperature (70' F), but I do wait 48 hours before stressing any glue joint.
I love urac, but I do run the toothing plane for a better glue joint.
Bue, 36-60 Will be fine for your surface prep. Keep in mind that the Urac will have leave a colorful glue joint behind, SO, the ruffer the sanded joint,the more visible the joint will be. For this reason I would say 60 grit would be best,Thats what I use for all my glue joints. I also use epoxy as that is what I have and it works great. As Macbow said,and you already know,Urac is not for a wood to glass joint,wood to wood only.
Good luck
CTT