I am a newbie on my first build. :knothead:
1. After floor tiller, before the tree.
2. Yes, but I think? TB2 is not waterproof.
3. If you size the bow back and soak the backing, no need to overcoat, just make sure you squeeze it down well. Use a smooth rod or beer bottle to help.
4. If you add more glue, it will add unneeded weight to the bow.
5. I have used wipe on poly to nice effect, over the backing as well.
If I have anything wrong, someone will correct me I hope.
Mike
Pretty well got you covered there...Titebond 2 is water resistant but not water proof. HOWEVER that will not matter once you put the finish on anyway. That should seal her good. I mix some titebond and water about fifty fifty and put that on the back first...let dry. Then soak the backing as you said in water, wring it out and pat it dry...lay down your glue lay on the damp linen. Yup, no need to add extra.
One newb to another I had the same questions! Thanks for asking.
Oh here's one....maybe you know the answer. I was thinking cut the arrow shelf after tillering...am I wrong?
Dave
Most guys do their handles and shelf's and tips after right before final tiller but after the main tillering process. This gives you the ability to line your string up good if you need to one way or the other.
Don't be scared to ask ANY questions around here. More fellows here willing to help than any where I ever been. I learned most of what little I know right here.
Thanks to all. I just dont want the thing to blow up before I get a few shots off. I am having a lot of fun with this so I cant see me building just one or two bows. I just hope my wife can put up with me ;-)
One more question related to the nocks. How do I measure where to cut them in and at what angle??
I'd measure down 1/2" from the tips and use a chainsaw tooth file to cut the back groove perpendicular to the limb, then use a framing square to mark 45 degree lines from the back groove on the sides, inwards towards the grip. Then just use the file to cut the sides.
Doing it in just a 1/2" will give you 69" NTN, and you could always move those down closer to the handle later to gain back a bit of draw weight if you go under your target weight. (don't ask me how I know) ;-)