Trad Gang

wanting to convert my edge sander. anyone converted the end of there edge sander into a pattern sander? would like to see your pattern sanders.
                              thanks, jim

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/Profilesander1.jpg)
 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/Profilesander2.jpg)
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Here are a few of my setup. It basicly is a big Robo sander just a bunch better.

thanks, crookedstic.

Crookedstic,  Is that a set up you can buy or is it custom made parts?

Crookedstic I would also very much like to know where such parts could be bought, and does the pattern wheel below the drum run freely? Thank you. Bue--.

Crookedstic,

I have that exact same sander and would love to convert it to use as a pattern sander.  Could you give us more detail on how you set it up and also some pictures of how it works/in action.

Thanks

Tenbrook

Also can this setup be used to make you own lams?

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/pattern-sander/

One other option to add to this post.  I have the exact same grizzly sander, and I added a 1/2" thick aluminum plate table bolted via the motor mount holes as well (just like you did crooked stic)

I went back and forth determining how I can make a bearing and guide to press fit over the motor shaft like yours, but I just did not have the ability to make one, thus before moving forward and having one made via a machine shop I simply cut a ring and bolted it directly to the aluminum plate.  I will load up a picture tomorrow but it works excellent for me.  Certainly not as sweet as yours, but it does the job and it is a fairly cheap bolt together pattern sander for a guy with limited machining tools such as myself.

(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/IMAG0068.jpg)
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That is what I have Brian, Works great with no moving parts to replace. I paid alot of money to the machine shop guy to do mine but it is nice and works great.
Chuck

Can you do lams with a setup like this?

If yes, can some post some pics of how they set it up or give an explnation.

thanks!

tenbrook

Not lams...just risers.  I have templates that match my form exactly...thus just draw your riser shape out on the block of wood, cut the riser section close to the line and then use the template sander to get it perfect...then no fitting, no fussing.  It should fit perfectly each time.  

I emailed grizzly tools the description of what they can do to their existing product line to make, market and sell these things but I dont think they have much interest.  It is unfortunate that there is no commercially available units like this (other than custom made, expensive ones)

Is there a way to do lams with a sander like that?  (I have the same one)

Certainly possible if you made sideways style adjustable sled....(there was a post a while back about doing this on a rigid belt sander)..but I would not mess with it as I don't think it would be that precise or efficient.  Nothing beats a drum sander for lams.

Mine run around $300 . All the parts made at a machine shop. You have to have the drive drum turned flat except for the last inch on each end. Then your guide wheel needs to be about the same diameter as the drive drum with the belt on it. I use 60 grit. My table is a poiece of steel plate milled flat. The part that runs against the guide wheel is plexiglass at the bottom of the jigs. It takes a lot of time to get your jigs built. But then it is a breeze after that. I will try to get more pics up soon.

Any chance of getting more pictures up Crooked Stic?

Bjansen maybe I could see a few more pictures of your setup as well.  I am getting ready to convert my 6x80" Grizzly.

Thanks Guys!

Here is how I did mine:

First thing to do is find a plate of thick aluminum 7/16 would be ideal.

1. Take the motor off of your Grizzly and take the alluminum drive pulley off the motor.

2. Transfer the motor's top bolts (3 of them as you will see) on a sheet of paper and drill and tap the alluminum plate to bolt the plate directly on top of the motor.  You must also drill out a center for the shaft to go through the plate as well.  ( I did this all with a handheld drill given my lack of drill press)

3.  Mount the plate on the motor.  You will need to get longer motor bolts from hardware store, then place the drive wheel on to do a test fit.  Check for square between the plate and drive wheel and shim accordingly under the plate (I used a couple washers between the plate and motor). You will notice the drive wheel has a slight crowned center, but is flat for the lower 2.5 inches...I simply made all of my jigs to be high enough for the material to contact that flat spot, and thus did not turn the drive wheel flat.

4.  Make a guide ring to fit between the plate and the drive wheel and bolt that to the plate.

5.  Your in business.


It takes some time and effort, but you can do it for under $100.  That being said, crooked stiks method is ideal and professional.

Thanks Bjansen.  

Yes his way looks to be a little better but I need simple.  I'll post pictures when I'm done.  

I have some 7/16" corian I might try and use.  What do you think about using this material?

thanks again!

Also how did you get off the alluminum drive pulley?  Mine is stuck on there.  Did you need a puller?

I do remember that pulley being a little tight but I got it off without a puller.  I think I used some light heat from my heat gun and a few taps on the shaft (with the nut installed lightly, and a small block of hardwood on top). A puller would be better if you had one..but a little heat on that alluminum pulley will get the job done as well.

I think corian would work...but would it be too brittle?..I have never worked with it before.

I finished it up with some Corian.  Worked quite well.  Only cost me $3 for the new motor screws as I had some Corian the local shop gave me laying around.

As you can see in the photos its perfectly square to the lower portion of the drum but when I add the paper its way off.  I am assuming that when you apply pressure to the belt it all ends up square....is this your experience?

thanks again!

tenbrook

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Something is goofy with that Cody.
It looks really nice the way youput it together, but it should be square all the time.
I have the same set up but made of steel.

Did you get the drive drum turned so it is flat?
Did the table get wacked and make it go out of square?

I squared my table once and it has stayed put, unless I wanted it to move.

I like what you made there, nice job(to all you guys)

CTT

What a beauty and the cheapest pattern sander conversion to date.....plus the corian top can be used to cut meat.  

Great job Tenbrook.

What do you guys do for dust control with the modifications?

I don't know Cody but the first pix without the belt on looks to have a tad wider gap at the top of the pulley. And maybe when ya put the belt on it's pulling the top in even more.

I will try for a pic in the morning Terry.
I have 2 hoses
One hose hooks to a box I made on the back of the sander, the box covers the whole back side of the belt and comes up to the side of the drum. The hose hooks to the bottom of the box.
The 2nd hose hooks to a big plastic funnel that I clamp to my table close to the idler drum when I am doing handle work down on that end.
Not perfect but decent. It takes ALOT of suction.

QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
Something is goofy with that Cody.
It looks really nice the way youput it together, but it should be square all the time.
I have the same set up but made of steel.

Did you get the drive drum turned so it is flat?
Did the table get wacked and make it go out of square?

I squared my table once and it has stayed put, unless I wanted it to move.

I like what you made there, nice job(to all you guys)

CTT

The table is square but I did not get the drum turned down flat so I squared the table to the bottom portion of the drum as Bjansen recommended.

Did you get your drum turned down?

Oops, I see above where he now recommends squaring it to the center portion.  I was using this previous thread  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=008727#000000  where he was squaring the table to the bottom portion.  

I made a few adjustments and squared my table to the middle of the drive pulley.  Still not sure how accurate it will be.  I am going to see about having a machine shop turn my drive pulley flat tomorrow.

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k258/matter_daddy/DSCN1632_zps0adbd060.jpg)

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Yes your drum needs to be flat at least where you work will be on it.

That sure looks better, but when you grind a part it will take the shape of the drum.
I had my drum turned down just like Brian said. Flat except for the outer 1" on each end.
I have a pefectly flat spot in the middle 4 inches of my drum.
I think if you get that done you will be in business. Like Brian said. The cheapest Pattern sander yet. I wish I had about $297 of my conversion dollars back. Good job man.

CTT

Where/how did you guys turn your drum flat?  Did you do it yourself or go to a machine shop?  If you paid someone to do it do you remember the cost?

thanks!

I did mine at first with a big file.
Then I went to the machine shop and my guy down there hooked me up for free.
Only takes a minute on the lathe.

If you use a file, be sure to run some chalk over the teeth. It will help keep the aluminum from galling the file.

CTT

Cool thanks!

Last question for now.  

Where do you have the bottom plate (for guiding the pattern) in relationship to the sandpaper?  Are they even, does the pattern guide extend past the paper or does the paper come out past the pattern guide?  And last should the pattern guide be adjustable?

Thanks again!

My guide ring is just like yours in relation to the paper, it is basically even with my 36grit paper installed on the wheel.  If there is a little difference either way, it will not be a big deal given you are going to final fit your pattern jig to fit a perfect riser in your form (that will take into account any slight variation in your ring circumfrence).  

Before you have your drum turned, try to create a pattern and run one through your jig as is....it may be fine already as I am sure that paper will  snug up tightly against your flat spot on the drive wheel.

I am going to be working on a jig tomorrow for a new riser accent. I will take some pics as I go and post them in a new thread.

Well I went to the machine shop to have my drive pulley turned flat (except for the top and bottom 1")  Cost me $20.  

While I was there I noticed a sheet of aluminum scrap.  He sold me a nice piece about 3/8 thick @ $2 a pound for $22.  I brought it home, drilled some holes, polished it and got er' mounted up.  Super solid and perfectly square!  :D

I still need to have the machine shop make my guide.  Told me he would do the job for $30 but I did not make it there by closing time so I will have to wait until Monday.  I am still undecided if I will put in a bearing or just keep it stationary.  Anyone have input on what works better?

Thanks

Tenbrook   :thumbsup:  

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Well Cody, I guess you have found the pot at the end of the rainbow. To have all that same work done, I spent nearly $300 at my machine shop.
I am happy you got the deal you did.

I used a stationary collar. My thought was, no moving part to clog with saw dust and I offset it to allow for the dust to have a place to go.
I have used both styles and both work equaly well.

below are some pics of my set-up to include the dust catchers.
The black dust chute is movable to any location on the sander.

(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/twotracks/P1020687_zps12faf4c7.jpg)
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/twotracks/P1020686_zps2e459696.jpg)

QuoteOriginally posted by Crooked Stic:
I am going to be working on a jig tomorrow for a new riser accent. I will take some pics as I go and post them in a new thread.

Thanks!  Please do.   :thumbsup:

TTT. Nice to have this kind of threads available. Bue--.

I would use the non moving collar. I had the bearing on mine and when the jig hits it, there is still some slight wear going on as the jig has to slow down the bearing.

I went to the collar a year or so ago and have been happy.
bigjim

I have the collar but use a stop to keep it from spinning as BigJim suggested.

Well after 3 plus years, my initial plastic ring wore out...luckily a good buddy of mine welded me up a ring assembly out of 40 guage steel pipe.  I am back in business!

This was a good thread to look back on....especially remembering a time, not that long ago, that I did not even have a drill press.....I am not sure how I got anything done.

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