Hey guys yall have witnessed the hard times with this design, here is a shot of braced and drawn, I made 4 in riser fades which actually reducined stacking by 1 lb but i know it looks to be bending a lot at riser ends, what I'm tryin to determine is if its taking all the stress or is it pulling the rd out and bc its so short it just looks this way. This bow is dead in the hands and quiet... Love everything about it except the full draw pic.... What ya think?
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/748d4d9c-e2b3-4ca6-b152-8f9b70dc1427.png)
Thanks....
Ps I tried plam but the bow broke... So do you think that's with trying again?
Video
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/th_VIDEO0010.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0010.mp4)
Do you have an unstrung profile pic?
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z152/BigBadGablues/long%20bow%20build/58in%20shorty/100_2006.jpg)
I suppose a powerlam might be in order?
plam or moving the limb taper out 3 inches?
I think I'd go p-lam AND move the start of limb side taper out, then if too much, bring the taper closer to handle area. :dunno:
This will increase #age some,3-5#?? :p
What these guys said. Ide taper the outer 10 inches on that length bow, then work down to just in front of the plam, checking your profile and poundage on tiller tree. :thumbsup:
Sounds like a winner how much weight should I gain per inch? Roughly of course
Yeah that thing looks about stressed out in the fade area. If you look at a lot of the short bows you will see they have more deflex in the riser. If you are gonna stick with that riser I would for sure put some power lams in it. What is your lam taper. You might consider .002 to get a smoother bend in those limbs.
The taper is .003 total... I've got a kids bow to do I'm going to try the different limb tapers on it tonight