Just thought I'd show ya'll a bow i been working on.. as well as my new handle design... this bow has a sister that will get glued up hopefully tonight.. for a husband/wife team in Ontario...
What ya'll thank bout the new handle??
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0154.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0156.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/uploadfromtaptalk1311952352284.jpg)
post some more pics as they come just got this far this morning..
then this....
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0162.jpg)
but its sooo dang purdy.....
Said crack is above the black line... and where the line is all you can see... it is not all the way through the riser.. i filled with CA glue the runny stuff and have shot about 75+ arrows through her with no ill happenings whats you guys' take on it...
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0163.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0164.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0152.jpg)
Looks lsender and comfy to me. Almost has a St Joe River bow look to it. I like those grips, so Im sure yours is comfy as well.
Very nice
Wow! Looks good.
I like it. Zebrawood is one of my favorite accent woods. it looks great with almost anything.
Looks good Brandon! Does the belly glass run on top of the zebra in that last pic?
Na it runs under the zebra all the way.through the riser.
However the.bad.news it cracked on me today right in the sight.window. so looks like this in is staying here. I do believe my shelf was too thin. So I got another set on the way. Right kenny
Well since said crack in the shelf I filled with super glue (the funny stuff) the put a nice coat of smooth on on it and since have ran about 50+ arras through it.... The crack doesn't go completely through the bow. What you guys think rekon shell be ight enough to shoot?
any advice??
The bow will break. The stripe you put in it is too wide for the riser and does not allow the glass on the accent to go through the deepest part of the grip. If the accents are just a bit higher up and in the deepest part of the grip or above it usually eliminates that cracking which is a compression crack caused by the flex being in the deepest part of the grip. they always run through the shelf and then through the sight window toward the back of the bow. sooner or later the bow breaks. Usually catastriphicaly. Boom. Its a hard lesson but one we all have to learn.
God bless you , Steve
thanks steve... i reckon i'm goin to put her in the trash and get rid of her asap as to not end up with knoggin knockin....
Keep tryin to see a way to make a TD out of her, but can't picture it!
in this picture you can see 2 small dime sized dry spots one on each end of the belly accents. my question is this.
Does the end of the riser bend with the draw? If so are my belly riser woods making it to stiff thus causing these glue spots, or was it just a booger on my part ie since they didn't go to the end of the riser maybe that lil spot was left.
I needed a wooden dowel to get pressure on the very tip so maybe that left to little pressure on the area between the dowel and belly wood causing said spots?
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/IMAG0164.jpg)
PS. if it helps i traced said spots and shot her about 75 times and they did not grow... so if that info tells you seasoned vets anything please any advice is welcome, my next glue up should be tom or the next day....
Looks to me your fades get too thick too fast. They do bend with the shot. They should be paper thin when they join the limbs.
Mike is dead on, I always go for paper thin at end,1/16" at 1" and a little over 1/8" at 2"from the end of riser.
Sometimes it is hard to get that with the geometry you want in the riser look tho.
Thry have to bend a little so you don't have a hinge there.
Cool so maybe Ill try to taper it like 1/8of an inch to the center of the riser make. Nice curve and cut multiple thin belly pieces so they bend to the contour..... I'll see what i can come up with tonight....
The fades are too thick too fast. Rule of thumb I try to keep is 0 to .250 back three inches. everything has to be smooth or you get those hollow spots. I have had some when I first start working a new design. You do eventually catch these things and do it less but it happens. That is such a pretty bow too,. I really hate it being trash canned. You could possibly drill through the sight window. run a long screw in with smooth on in the hole and along with the super glue it would hold and make you a shooter,. you could put an overlay over the screw and only you would ever know it was there. Wrap a good leather grip on the grip and glue it on. I would never sell it though.
the voids under the glass can be helped by taking a very tiny drill and drilling a hole through the glass in the center of the void. Then inject Gorilla impact resistant super glue in and clamp and let up and clamp and let up until the void disappears. Then clamp tight and let dry. The drill hole is filled with smooth on and when finished it disappears.
God bless you, Steve
You might consider making your overlays shorter also. I made some long ones like that (although much thinner) on a bow a while back and they wanted to come loose by the end of the fades where they were flexing. I ground them shorter and they are doing fine. Nice looking bow, by the way. I wish I could still work with cocobolo.
Ok wow Thanks for the help guys.. I spoke with kenny today and we concurred on this idea... lil fades up to the flat area and it worked..
Sixby, To you mean drill belly to back the run the screw in that way like right through the shelf/ sight window?? I probably will i really like the bow..
Bodork, the reason my overlays are so thick is my back of the riser is only 1.25 in thick so i needed atleast .50 or .75 in to get the width at the sight window right...
anyway here are the pics of course the belly lams on the riser will be nice and tapered just put that block there to get a look at how it all transitions..
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/8e602967-orig.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/armucheelongbows/9471de6f-orig.jpg)
PS. I'm going to try to stay out of the glass on this un maybe?? but definitely going to get the shelf up to 1.75-2.0 inches and then work my grip from there... keep ya fingers crossed the goods should be here tom... I hope..
Brandon. If there is room I would put the bolt in the shelf. If not then in the window . Do the super glue just before you tighten the bolt. Make sure the hole is filled with smoothon so you have no voids. It should hold but there are no guarantees in this kind of thing. I would recess the bolt head so I could over lay over it. Yes I mean drilling from front to back but not clear through the front. Use a good heavy stainless screw.
I have made it a habit to overlay the belly clear to the grip. This also reduces some of the flex and holds things together.
Tod bless you and good luck , Steve
So I'm hoping this.design will do a couple of things.... Hopefully the addition on the fades will lessen the stress on the shelf area.
Also kepping the belly glass intact through the riser will give me additional strength in the riser....
Really want to keep her nice and slim..... So well see how it goes....