Is Deft Brand Laquer the only finish that will stick to Ipe?? I've read that several different times when reading build alongs and such when using Ipe. Just wondering if anybody knew why other brands of laquer wouldn't adhere to Ipe and what's different about Deft laquer that it will adhere to Ipe.
I realize that it's the oil content of the Ipe that makes it hard for a finish to stick to it, but why Deft brand?
Problem is that stuff like this I would have to order special and pay shipping cause my local retailers just don't carry it.
It's the same way with Tru Oil, I have to order it online and sadly there is not a substitute for Tru Oil.
I can't answer the deft question.
I myself use bullseye shellac for one coat. Then put anything I want after that. I usually use spar urathane.
That's what I had read about the Deft laquer, put 1-2 base coats then finish with whatever you want.
Just don't understand why. I'm sure it has something to do with filling the pores on Ipe?
I dont know how it will hold up on ipe yet but I put a coat of Krylon chrystal clear acrylic on a bow I just finished,then true oil.Ive used the acrylic an a cople of self bows seems to hold up well.You can buy it at any store that carries krylon paint.You can put another coat on at any time and it dries very fast.Hope this helps ,Scott
Chris,
I usually rub the ipe with alcohol before I rub on some tru oil finish. Then after I let that dry I sand it with 400grit and finish it with a spray polyurethane finish. If you rub it with acetone or rubbing alcohol it will draw some of the oils out of the wood allowing the finish to stick better.
Use any lacquer you want. The problem with oily woods like ipe is how the oils in the wood react or alter how an oil-based finish works. Lacquer of any kind gets you around that. Water-based finishes have worked for me on test samples and on cocobola as well as long as you wipe the wood down before finishing. And of course shellac will work too.
Oh, and be careful wiping down ipe with a lighter wood on the riser or tips. The ipe "bleeds" with your wiping solvent, and if you wipe from the ipe onto the lighter wood, you will probably get some orange/brown staining of the lighter wood. Carefully wipe from the lighter wood to the ipe and it seems to be fine.
Although it doesn't seem to matter much with bamboo which doesn't like to take stain anyhow, at least if it's not end grain.
Dave
Thanks for all the tips guys, much appreciated. I know what your saying about the wood bleeding David, osage will do the same thing to a smaller extent. However I've never had to wipe any wood with a solvent first before sealing either, always tru oil my osage without incident.
I use wipe-on polly and have never had a problem.
Just finishing one, Maple backed Ipe. didnt wipe it down with anything except a rag and sealed it with wipe on poly.I sealed it in the sun where its been 100 deg or better the last few days. Dried in no time, 30 minutes between coats.Dont know if the heat/sun made a difference but it worked pretty good.
Jeff
p.s.
I usually use deft(spray can) also.
Thanks Jeff, I'll post the link to where I'm getting most of my info on using Deft laquer for finishing Ipe. From what I'm reading nothing else sticks to it quite like the Deft laquer does? But then everybody has their own way that works for them, so I'm starting to think that maybe other finishes will work? Don't know yet, the jury is still out.
Go to page 7 in this build along and read the part on finishing.
http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe7.htm