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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: TheBronzeAge on July 06, 2011, 09:28:00 PM

Title: Starting a recurve
Post by: TheBronzeAge on July 06, 2011, 09:28:00 PM
A while ago a friend of mine gave me a half-finished recurve to work with.  I've never done a recurve and unlike him I don't have the setup to do laminate bows.  Today I put the recurve on the tillering tree, pulled it a bit to see where I needed to scrape wood, and realized I don't really have a clue how to tiller a recurve.  What do I look for?  Symmetry, I assume, but are the rules about which parts of the limb do the most bending the same as for a non-recurved bow (adjusted for the initial bend, of course)?
Title: Re: Starting a recurve
Post by: Art B on July 07, 2011, 07:59:00 AM
How 'bout a little more info please.

What materials was used in the construction of the bow? Back (pyramid or retangular) and side profile (straight/reflexed/deflexed)?

It would also help to know how long your bow is. And your intended draw length/weight.......Art
Title: Re: Starting a recurve
Post by: Pat B on July 07, 2011, 10:24:00 AM
Pics are very helpful in a situation like this plus answering Art's questions.
Title: Re: Starting a recurve
Post by: TheBronzeAge on July 08, 2011, 10:49:00 AM
The back is bamboo and the design is rectangular.  It's 68" inches and I'd like it to draw 45# at 28".
Pictures below.
Without any pull on the tillering rope:
  (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d73/Emb1346/recurveunbent.jpg)
Slight pull:
  (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d73/Emb1346/recurveslightybent.jpg)  
More pull:
  (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d73/Emb1346/recurvebent.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a recurve
Post by: Art B on July 08, 2011, 12:19:00 PM
That's a R/D design rather than a recurve design. Is it light enough to get a regular string on yet? Left limb looks like it could do with a bit of catching up with the right limb first though. Appears the section out from the right tip is getting a little light with the long string. It'll become more pronounced when you change strings.

Remember, when using a long tillering string like you're using now, near handle will appear bending more than it should and the tips stiffer than normal. That'll change when you go to a short string because of the differences in the string angles. In other words, less bend near handle and more bend outer limb.

I think what you're looking for as far as a finished drawn profile (with a regular string) is a circular center to mid-limbs and straight from there to the tips.

Just work it slow and easy and put up plently of pics and I'm sure the R/D specialist can work you through it. Good luck.....Art