I have trouble shooting selfbows off the knuckle.
They all shoot to the left. I just finished a 57lb@28" osage bow with a bulbous handle. Where the arrow sits, is probably 1/4+ off center. I even went down to 1816 alums and 43lb cedars. Arrows are flying straight.
Another guy who shoots selfbows says since I change back and forth to glass bows with shelfs cut past center, I will always have problems with selfbows where the arrow sits 1/4"+ off center.
Anyone else have issues? I have selfbows where I have cut a shelf and the arrow sits more center, and I shoot those "ok".
I dont have a problem switching between glass bows and self bows. I shoot 3-under and aim with the tip, however I have to cant the wood bows more or they will shoot to the side.
Greg, how are your bow's shelf cut?
i have never made a stiff handled bow with a cut out shelf but it seems like you are having spine issues with your arrows.
arrows flying to the left is too stiff a spine.
No shelf, just a bulbous handle.
QuoteOriginally posted by Aznboi3644:
i have never made a stiff handled bow with a cut out shelf but it seems like you are having spine issues with your arrows.
arrows flying to the left is too stiff a spine.
Not sure how I could go lower than 150gr tips out of a 1816 spine with a 57lb bow.
They bare shaft tune fine.
I just know I shoot by looking a spot. Not down an arrow, not off the tip, just look at it and shoot it.
QuoteOriginally posted by Aznboi3644:
i have never made a stiff handled bow with a cut out shelf but it seems like you are having spine issues with your arrows.
arrows flying to the left is too stiff a spine.
i agree that it sounds like a spine issue. try leaving your arrows full length to start with and bump up the point weight and see if that helps. don
If they shoot fine when bare shafted then spine isn't the problem. I hold my center cut glass bows nearly vertical and cant the woodbows about 45 degrees.
I have a friend who shoots the same way as you and he has the same problem with shooting left.
I notice if I close my left eye , and eye down the shaft, before pulling back, and slowly pull back, I hit ok. But I have never shot that way. Where i notice many guys shoot do that.
I might try canting more.
I shoot a glass curve a lot. When I switch back to a selfbow I have a period of readjustment before I hit consistently. It takes me a lot more practice to shoot a selfbow well. I have to really dedicate myself to it. That's why I shoot my glass curve a lot.
I am glad I am not the only one.
I like the feel of bulbous handles. Just a disappoiting weekend at the balt trad classic. Broke or lost 4 POC arrows.
Another issue i am facing. I can't get to full draw consistently. Its like I have a mental block that my selfbow needs to be launched immediately. I have had a few blow up at full draw, and ever since then, I snap shoot.
String slapping the arm guard will cause left impact for a right-handed shooter BC. But as some has mentioned, probably the ole brain having problems adjusting for that wider arrow pass.
Try some type of tapered arrow for your selfbow. Use parallels for your glass bow. That will help a lot.
When it comes to getting to full draw, it's mind over matter. Takes a lot of concentration, practice and shear determination to overcome. At least it did for me........Art
BC. Was that you with the rawhide backed self bow talking to Stim Wilcox?
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Kendrot:
BC. Was that you with the rawhide backed self bow talking to Stim Wilcox?
That be me. He gave me a decent critique. Nice of him.
Biggy, in my "earlier years" I had this same "situation" when changing from said bows!
I shot with Gary Davis, and watched him shoot at the long distance shot 90+ yards with his bows and others!
At Cloverdale one year, he was on, and folks were paying the "Price of admission" to shoot Their bows! It was a Show for sure!
My heart was with the Selfbow, my ability was the "Shelfed bows"!
Gary and Terry Henry, another great Shooter and friend from Michigan inspired wisdom in my soul!
Don't fight it! It will come, you will feel it!
Your Heart, Love and Desire is in place!
Sounds to me like you may be left eye dominant. I am too. I keep both eyes open but have trained my right eye to pick up the arrow and take over. What I do is consciously look down the arrow with my right eye and then up at the target when practicing. It becomes a subconscious habit and don't have to think about it after a while. If my left eye "takes over" the arrow hits about 2 feet left at 20 yards.
QuoteOriginally posted by Shaun:
Sounds to me like you may be left eye dominant. I am too. I keep both eyes open but have trained my right eye to pick up the arrow and take over. What I do is consciously look down the arrow with my right eye and then up at the target when practicing. It becomes a subconscious habit and don't have to think about it after a while. If my left eye "takes over" the arrow hits about 2 feet left at 20 yards.
Very left eye dominant. It has plagued me since I started archery for 25 years.
What I used to do when I started trad, was when I looked at the target, before I released, I would briefly blink my left eye, and get my concentration on the right eye. (sounds like what you do). But I quit doing that, and pretty well trained myself to look at a target and just pointing in that direction, I could hit. (no ref to the arrow). I did this by shooting at night at a candle for a while.
But now with an arrow off center by up to 3/8", I might have to go back to training myself to look down the arrow again. Problem is I hold at full draw with glass bows for 2-3 sec before releasing. So, you do things like train your right eye.
But with a self bow, in my head, I am having trouble mentally holding for 1-2sec. I feel like if I hold back 3 sec, its going to explode at any time.
I am glad I am not the only one. I do appreciate all's advise. I was considering quit making bulbous handles altogether and make shelved (cut to the center) bows again. I have had issues with this in the past with osage where I have had cracks up the fades to the limbs starting inside the shelf.
big : if youre worried about your bow exploding if its held for 3 seconds , you will short draw every time. its like flinching if you shoot too big of a gun.
put your bow on the tiller tree and pull it with a rope and pulley. if you cant hold it there for 5 seconds , at the very least , i would say thats a pretty bad bow.
my board bow was at the full draw peg for a couple minutes at a time. i pulled it a couple inches past 28" just to know that if i stretch out or someone picks it up , there is a margin for some error.
i wouldnt hesitate to hold full draw while hunting even for 5 minutes. the only concern i have , is that it seems to cause a little more set. if i was really shooting , i would get to half draw , ready , then come to full draw as a shot presented itself.
also , your shooting left sounds just like me when i shot off my knuckle. now i shoot off my fingertip.
one other idea , is that with the bulbous handle , it may be twisting just enough in your hand that the arrow is actually moved slightly off the plane. try wrapping some athletic tape around it and build it up just a little. i bet this is whats happening.
-hov
Yea, I have made a few Hova.
Its kinda like telling someone not to be scared of hieghts and then expecting them to not. Its just something people has to work thru.
If you have a few blow up on you at full draw, I guarantee you, it will take some mental doing to not worry about it. Its just a part of bow building I suppose. And I highly suggest not holding your board bow few min at time on a tiller tree. Just a suggestion.
bc : i have had em blow up. i been in car accidents and taken red hot metal in my arm. you cant focus on what can happen. that is a distraction. as anyone , you have to have confidence in yourself , and your equipment.
i do understand being nervous and apprehensive , and yes you will work through that. thats all natural and to be expected. i wasnt , and am not trying to say youre doing anything wrong.
i just meant that obviously something is wrong if a bow breaks at full draw. not that the bowyer made a bad bow , but you could have had a crack or something not even visible.
this is why i like the peg tillering stick. while i understand a piece of wood can only be flexed so much before it breaks , if it is made right , in my opinion (and from a mechanical standpoint) , a bow should be able to hold full draw without breaking indefinitely. thats what it was designed to do , is bend.
im just an amateur still , and im not tryin to steal your thread or get ya riled up . im definitely not saying that you build or have a bad bow. i mean nothing but respect and help .
-hov
Big Country;
I would key in on the bare shafts "fly fine" but shafts with feathers go left. If "fly fine" means the bare shafts go where you are looking then it says everything is working right, but the addtition of feathers make the arrow go left.
I agree with Don S and suggest you work with the arrows. Try more point weight, an insert or longer arrows. If they eventually go where you look, or even start to go to the right, then you will know it is a spine issue.
The key distinction is "bare shafts fly fine, feathered shafts fly to the left".What do feathers do that could cause the difference? It would seem the two possibilities are;
1)feathers increase the spine,
2)feathers are causing some type of interference.
I hope you can work this out.
Jeff
Hmm, not sure about that. I have been bareshaft tuning/paper tuning for 25 years. Its treated me well. 90% of the time or more, after bareshaft tuning, broadheads also hit same POI. To me, thats tuned. Both fletched and bareshaft have same POI.
Besides, not sure I could go much lower than 1816's or 40lb. Never even heard of folks going down below that for a 57lb bow shooting 165fps for 9gpp.