Posts: 24
How do you???
« on: Today at 01:27:12 PM »
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Hey TG bowyers-
I am currently at a stand still with my first osage bow because I am waiting on a stringer. Since I am itching to continue making a bow I figured I would start another one. I would like to make a long bow style with a shelf cut just ever so slightly into the handle. I would like it to be 64-66 inches TTT and around 55-60# @28 inches.
Any ideas on the layout of this bow??? Such as limb width and taper
Thanks guys you all rock.... Justin
Is this another Osage Bow Justin? What's your draw length? What's the stave's side profile look like (i.e. straight, reflexed, or deflexed )?Art
I would like the profile to be somewhat reflex/deflex... Semo-Hunter sent me a copy of his traveling caul. My draw length is just under 28 inches. These billets are super straight.
Any help Art would be appreciated
About the sweetest design I've used for Osage of that length is a straight glue-up right out of the handle and then flip the tips from mid-limb to tips.
Limb width at fades is 1 1/2" for about 6", then a straight taper to 1/2" tips.
Belly taper, from fades to mid-limb 1/16". Then carry the same thickness to tips.
Lay out a 5" handle dead center of the bow. From center of the handle mark up 1 1/2" for the arrow shelf. Thats for a medium grip. That's leaves 1" of handle above the shelf to reinforce the window and will leave you with a 4" handle. Both fades and both limbs will be of equal lengths.
Note: center of your splice will not be the center of your handle with this layout. You will have to mark up 1/2" from the center of the splice for the center of the handle so that some type of grip material will cover the splice. Even simpler, just cut the upper limb/billet 1" longer than the lower...Art
Yep, what Art said.
That caul design will put reflex in the tips for about the last 1/3 but you also end up with about 2" of deflex. I don't know how much that will vary the design that Art mentioned, but it is more challenging to tiller.
I like using the same basic layout that Art mentioned with a straight taper from handle width of 1 1/4" down to 1/2" at the tips. My next one may be even skinnier? I'm thinking the last 12" or so taking it down a bit more, dunno yet.
I think either way you will have a shooter Justin, just go with what feels right and step outside your comfort zone, but listen to Art he knows some stuff. Especially with working a set of billets. :thumbsup: