What angle in degrees is the best to use for string nocks? Or is there something else or trick that is used to determine the proper string groove angle?
I usually just kinda eyeball it...I make my nock groove wider on the inside to allow for the range of movement through the draw...in other words, wider toward the center of the string...I would have to measure, but I would say I cut mine at about 30 degrees....although I have seen many cut perpendicular to the limb that worked just fine.Good luck
I go 45 off the limb at that point, then curve it a little to take all the corner I can out of it. Also widen on the belly like stickhunter said to keep the string from jumping up on that shoulder.
I do mine the same as Kenny does. I even go as far as to use my speed square to be sure they match up dead nutz.
A string groove should not be a straight file motion...but instead it should roll onto and around the limb. No corners.
I set up my jig at 60 degrees, this angle a lines the groves with my strings when the bow is braced. Like others, I round/flatten the top side of the groves so they do not cut the string or create a "jump/pop" (for lack of a better word) when the string is drawn and released.
45 deg. for me and pretty much the same as Kenny explained. I made a little jig cut at a 45 deg. angle to mark my lines the same on both sides. I'm not very good at eyeballing the string grooves so the guide that I made helps me keep them uniform, then I widen the grooves on the belly side and last thing I do is take a piece of 180 grit emory paper and roll it up then run it up and down through my grooves to smooth out any harsh edges.
I did one perpindicular and it works ok but it's a bit hard on the loops.
Let me describe my "roll" a little bit more. I come in on the belly of the limb at about 15 degrees...but then as I go up I increase the angle so I am real close to 90 degrees by the time I get to the back of the overlay.
This picture doesn't really show it very clearly, but it is better than no picture at all.
(http://www.protegelongbows.com//EldonsAndStacysbows.jpg)
Thanks for all of the replies folks. I too roll my grooves. I was curious though as too the starting angle most of you use. I have been using 45' as my starting point but I think I will now wait to cut the side grooves until the final tiller is complete. Tracing the angle of the string at full draw and then cut them in accordingly...
The string angle at brace is more important than at full draw. At brace is when the string hits the tip at the sharpest angle.
IMO, the groove should roll into null on the belly. This way as the string comes down on the "follow through" it doesn't hit a corner as it swings past the brace angle.
Mine usually end up more curves than angles.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Assorted%20bow%20pics/tipshape1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Assorted%20bow%20pics/tipshape3.jpg)
I eyeball mine, but they are close to 45 deg. I also take material off the belly side closer to the tips.
Pat you caught me in that one. I should have stated at brace rather than at full draw...