I have noticed on the thread different names or discriptions for strings. This is what I gather so far...
Tillering string- roughly 12" longer than Knock to Knock, used for initial tillering
Long string- Same as tillering string? same function?
Short string- I would guess this would be refering to actual string length?
From what i gather you long string tiller it sorta close than you short string it and finish the tiller...
Are my assumtions correct?
My tillering string is 72" long with a loop on one end. I use a bowyer's knot (timber hitch knot) on the other end. I use it from long string tillering through shoot in and just shorten as I go.
It is made with 18 strands of Dacron B-50 and is reverse twisted for the entire length.
mine is pretty much the same as john. 16 strands instead of 18. don
Thanks.... What about the short string?....
And as for length, I shorten it as soon as possible. Long strings are liars. (A mis-quote from George)
I start with a string that is the same length as the bow, not 12" longer and shorten it to target brace height when I can. Be careful to never exceed your target weight though.
CJ
I make a new string every time I start a new bow, put a loop in one end and use a timber hitch on the other end. As I tiller the bow I just re tie the timber hitch knot to shorten the string. When I reach final tiller I just twist it until I reach my desired brace height. Most time I use this string on the bow, just add serving and it's ready for use.....Dan
I use a longbow stringer with leather cups for the long string. When ready for the short string I have 40-50 different length strings between 54" and 64" hanging on the wall and I grab one of them. Three or four of the strings that have been used on several bows, each bow gets a new string when it is completed.
Thanks guys...
That's a good idea Walt. I need to start making up strings with varying lengths.
I'm with Walt on this one. I use a homemade tillering string with leather cups on both ends because the nock grooves aren't cut in till I'm ready to go to the short string. I just shorten/lengthen it as needed for each bow. I don't have quite the assortment Walt does, but 6-10 different strings will allow me to find one close then twist it up to where I want it for low brace or more.
I've only done a handful of bows and after seeing the suggestion here I use paracord with a permanent knot on one end and tie a bowyers knot on the other. After getting limb movement of 6-10" (also learned here) I go to a new string I make for the bow.
I start with a long string with one loop on each side. No bowyer's knot. Then when it is ready for the short string, I make a new string for each bow and then just keep the string when the bow is finished.
Use a shorter string and get to brace height asap. The long tillering strings with the leather cups lie.
I use para cord with a permanent loop in one end and a timber hitch in the other, then I use the actual string for the bow when its time to go to the short string
Here's the way I do it.
Long string =old sash cord. Length 1.5 times that of bow about.
Tillering string=old bow string.
Bow string=Flemish made for bow.
Jawge
I see that people here use paracord and dacron for tillering strings, but is there a certain kind of material that should be avoided for a tillering string?
Lakota, I would say that artifcial sinew, waxed nylon would be the worst!
I use the strongest material, like Fast Flight or other High performance materials.
I do like John, and twist the entire length. One long string to use for different bows.
I want the the limbs to show everything, and not the string stretching!
I may disagree with folks about certain things, but learn from everyone, no matter from the most experience and the greenhorns, on the light they shed!
I don't have the best of eye when tillering, but I'm learning!
i make a new string for each of them. i have just made one string or two and a few 3 foot test pieces with the daCRON I got from knocking point. i had been using artificial sinew from pat catans . it worked fine , just stretched like s......
i get floor tiller to about 4-5", then put the string on with about a 3 inch brace. even it out , if needed , and twist it up to get to brace height.
once the bow is done i make a new one , because i always end up hitting the string a bunch with the coarsest rasps i have on hand. and my loops just look terrible...ive seen better , and ive seen worse , but now that im in a house , i will have room to make endless strings...
-hov
i make a new string for each of them. i have just made one string or two and a few 3 foot test pieces with the daCRON I got from knocking point. i had been using artificial sinew from pat catans . it worked fine , just stretched like s......
i get floor tiller to about 4-5", then put the string on with about a 3 inch brace. even it out , if needed , and twist it up to get to brace height.
once the bow is done i make a new one , because i always end up hitting the string a bunch with the coarsest rasps i have on hand. and my loops just look terrible...ive seen better , and ive seen worse , but now that im in a house , i will have room to make endless strings...
-hov
Hov, you mention hitting the string with your rasp...does this imply that you leave the bow braced as you scrape or rasp where needed? For some reason I assumed most folks braced and unbraced between tillering adjustments.
Thanks~
Lee, I thought just like you until recently, There was a recent thread where several guys(even the very experienced) said that they tiller with the bow strung.
No kidding? Well I had thought about doing that (seemed to make sense) but I assumed it was kinda like "cheating" :nono:
I'd love to hear some opinions on this topic as it would save a guy a fair amount of time with all the stringing, unstringing, scraping, stringing, looking...repeat at infinium. LOL
Lee, I hope I didn't make your tillering string too short for ya! When I'm done floor tillering, I'll bring it up to brace height using the tillering string with a bowyer's knot equal to the length of the bow NTN. Then I'll move the knot up a few inches to a low brace height to get a closer picture of which side the string is tracking. At that point, I'll move the knot up further to full brace height and finish it up to full draw and shoot it in. I usually only make a new string for a bow once I get the final finish on it.
As to unstringing, I'm moving over to the camp of not unstringing between scrapings. Occasionally, I'll unstring so I can get in closer to the tips or check how much set I'm getting. The tillering strings usually last me 2 or 3 bows with all the nicks I give them with rasps and scrapers.
John
I made my first string this weekend... Turned out ok. It was a 2-bundle flemish string. I cant tell you how many times i watched videos on youtube to figure it out... im not sure what i was doing wrong at first. I was using the reverse twist but as soon as i put some preassure on it it would come unravled....
Does any one know were i can get some more tips? (threads)
Or whats recommended resource for a book/video?....
I'm curious if anyone has tried using a prusik knot or a Klemheist Knot on a work string before?
when i played with the timber hitch a lot my string got pretty ragged in short order...
check out these knots...
http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
Kirk, that is why I use the High performance string materials! Highly abrasive resistant!
It will take alot of hits from a rasp and scraper!
The timber hitch/bowyers knot, has always worked well and is easily adjusted.
Make sure too, to pre-stretch the string before tillering.
If you want to spend the money, make one from Halo, or Crown serving! Tough enough, to last for alot of bows! :bigsmyl:
QuoteOriginally posted by John Cooper:
Lee, I hope I didn't make your tillering string too short for ya!
As to unstringing, I'm moving over to the camp of not unstringing between scrapings.
John
Hey John, how's things? Nope, the string is plenty good, I just need to learn to make my own (should have stayed and watched you make mine at the Kzoo show but my boys were so amped up to check things out I couldn't slow em down...)
We need to get together again sometime soon.
I'm another that uses a string with two big leather cups. I have a running knot in one end and when I have the limbs trimmed, but no nocks in, I adjust the string to close to what I want as a string length. I have woodworker's holes in my bench and set two pegs in them to brace the bow against and put the cups on the ends of the limbs. I'm then able to string it, put it on the tiller board and, if all looks good, get a draw weight. At that point I can decide whether to further grind the limb sides, maybe decide whether I want the nocks a bit further down the limbs to increase weight, or whatever. It works well for me.