Been making BBO bows for about 10 years now, always used Dean Torges design with the lower limb 1 1/2 inches shorter than the top and a balboas handle. Been talking with Art B from WV past few months and he talked me into a bow design of a different handle and limbs of the same length. I really like this design.
Found the center of the bow, centered a 5 inch handle on it, measured up 1 1/2 inches from center for the arrow pass, and from top and bottom of the handle I set the flares at 2 1/2 inches, then made the limbs equal length. Bow is 66 tips to tip, Osage backed with Boo.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6477.jpg)
Resting in bow form.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6479.jpg)
All glued up.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6486.jpg)
Flare to flare is 10 inches, so I made the riser section 14 inches.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6493.jpg)
Then cut it out.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6498.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6497.jpg)
String falls right down the center of the handle.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6503.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6504.jpg)
Pulled her on the tree tonight till limb tips were down 5 inches, looking sweet thus far. Would say it's a good 65 pounds right now, shooting for 55.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6505.jpg)
Roy, are you tapering your boo? How thick is it at fade and tips?
Also how wide at the fade and tips?
I'm gonna keep an eye on this one. I got some osage slats but they will need spliced.
Boo is tapered from 1/8th thick at handle to 1/16th thick at tips. Fades are 1 1/4 wide and I run the 1 1/4 width out 6 inches past flares, then a straight taper from there to 1/2 wide at tips.
Interesting......I'm curious to see how that longer handle section increases the effeciency of the bow.
Question......What wood did you use as your handle overlay?
Did you plane down a piece of Osage stave for the belly lam or is it from a board?
Lastly........What the heck is this thing? Muskrat? :rolleyes:
(http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/Roybert.jpg)
Dont forget to tiller for a 3 under sissy shooter Roybert. Glad to see the handle worked out, it looks dang good. How wide are your faccets? (sp?) Uh oh....Chris knows how to draw on your pictures now Roybert!
QuoteOriginally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Dont forget to tiller for a 3 under sissy shooter Roybert. Glad to see the handle worked out, it looks dang good. How wide are your faccets? (sp?) Uh oh....Chris knows how to draw on your pictures now Roybert!
I've always known how Pearl just never used it on Roybert before. :goldtooth:
I wanna see the bend in it, I'd like to see where it starts the bend since the handle section is quite a bit longer.
Another question, how do you taper your boo backing? Do you free hand it on the belt sander or do you have a jig to put it in?
Handle is Osage, used an Osage board for bow core, the thing you have circled is a piece from a rug. Facets are 1/4 wide.
Can't believe Semo and Pearl are outta bed yet?
Muskrat? And he traps.. LOL
I taper the boo on a jointer first then get closer with a belt sander, then hand tools.
Since 5:30 am and heard a turkey gobble right behind the house while drinking my coffee. :coffee:
Could you show me how you taper your boo backing? I'd like to try this BBO someday, maybe soon?
But all I have is a 6" belt sander, so I'm wondering if I can taper this myself without screwing it up?
I only had 6 last night........... plus its church day for the house. Let me get this straight. The facets are a 1/4" wide so the back of your untouched boo is about 3/4" wide after both sides are rasped down?
When doing the facets, I start out wider at the riser section then taper them less and less as I get towards the tips.
Thought I'd bring this back from page two. What are you waitin' on? Do you need somebody with muscles to pull that tillering cable? Guess if I wanna see this thing, I'll have to stop by on Saturday. I see my bow is right where I left it a month ago (darn Honey-do list). You gonna be around on Saturday?
Come on over John and see it. It's in 5 pieces now. A knot showed it's ugly head at mid limb and developed a crack. So I cut it all up:) Waiting on some good Osage to get here. Rogers bow is looking sweet. I'll be here Saturday.
Ok Roybert, are you gonna finish this up or just leave it hanging out there like dirty undies flapping in the breeze?? :saywhat:
I want to see how you tiller these sticks with boo on them so I can get to building my own.
Couple questions:
Do you think this would be an ideal situation to use boo backing on a spliced in the handle bow?
Next question: You've seen my caul that I built. Do you think that would be too much reflex/deflex for a boo backing to be glued on that caul form?
I suppose that depends on how thick your material is huh?
Thanks for any help anwering those Roybert. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Come on over John and see it. It's in 5 pieces now. A knot showed it's ugly head at mid limb and developed a crack. So I cut it all up:) Waiting on some good Osage to get here. Rogers bow is looking sweet. I'll be here Saturday.
It failed on him Chris..........Art
Ole Elmo never did read good:)
Yes Chris you could back the spliced handle with boo, I always do. I can't remember your caul pictures, I'll have to go look or fire me an e-mail.
Poor bow design probably.......
I never did like you Pearly Boy:)
I think I hear Taps playing on bagpipes somewhere in the background? :rolleyes:
Sorry to hear that Roybert, it was lookin pretty good too.
Caul pic.
(http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/CaulBoards038.jpg)
I tried to tell Ol' Roy that wouldn't happen if'n he'd built a stave bow. But ohhhhh no, he wouldn't listen to me!
Hey, what's the reasoning behind the splash or back board? Won't that just unnecessarily blow heat back double baking the inside of the stave? Art
I tried to tell Roy the same thing. Stave bows are more work, but they are more reliable. He doesnt listen Art.......course you already knew that.
I know a guy from WV and a guy from Mich that are gonna get put on my gonna get a thumpen soon list if they don't watch the smarty pants remarks:)
Ya Semo that would work.
QuoteOriginally posted by Art B:
I tried to tell Ol' Roy that wouldn't happen if'n he'd built a stave bow. But ohhhhh no, he wouldn't listen to me!
Hey, what's the reasoning behind the splash or back board? Won't that just unnecessarily blow heat back double baking the inside of the stave? Art
That's to have something to clamp to so I can take out camber. Clamp straight left to right, and set the shape of the caul up and down.
Ask DVSHunter, he came up with it and I just copied the design. I kinda like being able to add R/D and take camber out at the same time, saves on having to heat it twice I think?
QuoteOriginally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
I tried to tell Roy the same thing. Stave bows are more work, but they are more reliable. He doesnt listen Art.......course you already knew that.
How so? Please explain in detail.
I thought billet bows were just as reliable and sometimes superior because you can actually control the grain somewhat.
Art.....what's your take on this?
we were comparing stave/self bows to backed bows Chris.
Billeted bows are basically the same thing as stave bows once glued together Chris. In appearence that is. Other than that, matching billets ARE supeior for bows because of their closely matched working properties.
Hey, I just throw a c-clamp over my work and use a wedge to take care of any lateral problems. Didn't I send you a pic of that? Art
Roy, ooking good!
I missed this one, how is it coming along? Like you, I haven't deviated much from Dean's design. I like Art's layout, it is close to how I layout my selfbows. My form is adjustable, so I will try it on the next BBI.
Chris, your caul would put the boo on the bottom side, against the wood, which is opposite of how Roy's (and my) form work. Somebody (Pat B?) posted they were able to use a caul like yours on a BBO/BBI by placing ½" rigid insulation the top side to cushion the boo.
oops!
Way to go Walt! You had a to bring it up again.....Roy probably starting crying again. We just got him calmed down.....
LOL Walt, there will be more builds, waiting for my Osage to arrive in the mail this week.
Roy
Who do you get your Osage from?
Pete
Thanks for clearing that up, I guess my mind was still thinking about a boo backed billet bow?
Hmmmmm......I guess that would be called a BBBB huh?
I forgot that Roy used an Osage slat for the belly.
Roybert.......Just like I told Art yesterday.
Sometimes you actually get to ride ON the Bus rather than be thrown under it.
In this case it was a hit and run by a Bus. :deadhorse:
That's kinda along the lines I was thinking with the caul Walt. Some type of cushion in the caul to protect the back, but I hadn't came up with any good ideas yet. I knew it had to be something that would offer enough support to get a good glue line, but had enough give to not screw the boo....up.
I assume your referring to the foam board type insulation? It's kind of rigid but will still squash down where the nodes are?
Pete, sent you a PM..
Funny you should mention a bus, SEMO. Seems to me some folks on here may be familiar with the "short bus".
By the way I used to drive the "short bus", seriously.
Stan :dunno:
I hear ya Red. I've rode the short bus to insanity and back a couple of times. :knothead: :biglaugh: