I am planning on developing a take down longbow over the summer months. I would like to see some feedback on the different methods (positives and negatives) of the various types. Some "build a longs" with the different systems would be nice too before testing them myself. I am leaning towards a 2 piece, but I am not sold on the henge systems or the pipe sleeve systems. The bow bolt seems interesting, but I am concerned about its integrity and alignment. I am also interesting in a "one limb bolt" system where the bottom limb comes off the riser with about 1/3rd of the riser with it...immediately below the grip. Although the last type will produce assymetrical 2 piece but it would seem to be the strongest type with the best alignment as it would go on and off just like a limb on a 3 piece takedown bow.
My current plan is something like what stotler has done but making it a 2 piece instead of a 3 piece. It seems to me, this would be the most durable and provide for the best alignment...but as I mentioned above, I would like to see some build alongs on take downs.
(http://www.stotlerarchery.com/media/images/GameGetterEliteBD.jpg)
I had a bow bolt give way on me, it was exciting !
by far the best I have seen is the locket socket that Black Widow uses, I think Big Jim uses it also.
I second the composite socket. It also lends itself to easily form any grip desired.
Big Jim, Cari-bow, Jack Harrison and Steve Turay make bows that way to name a few.
I like the look of the system Big Jim uses. I found a build along on another site, but can't seem to locate it now. Will continue to search, I'll post the link if I find it...
Have a great deal of info on the hinge system on my site, including build alongs...
www.dickwightman.com (http://www.dickwightman.com) Click on Archery Activities... then on Using the Connexion Hinge
I don't own a takedown longbow and never tried to make one, but if I ever were to own/build one, I would go for a system whereby you can't tell it's a takedown when it's together.
So I guess I'd go for the type hogdance and chupa mention above.
Dick,
I saw your site on the henge system. Thanks for the information. Have you noticed any of the "clacking" I have heard some people experiencing? Also, please check out my questions below. Thanks.
Everyone else,
My mentor, Gary Sentman, never used any of the take-down systems, so I am researching this one on my own. Any help offered is appreciated. Whatever system I go with it must be...
1. Simple design for durability and trouble free use.
2. have obvious strength for long term durability
3. maintain good alignment over time
4. remain silent during the shot.
I have heard of the bow bolts failing. I know a lot of the pipe sleeve types often have a wobble to them...the only one I ever saw that didn't was so tight that it was VERY HARD to get apart.
The fear I have with the henge is "clack" (opening and closing and making sound when the bow is shot). Maybe they don't all do that, but I have heard some negatives in that regard. I am not familiar with it myself...but it looks simple which I like. I do have some concerns about hiding it somewhat. Can it be covered with leather and still be operational?
The standard "take down" method with limb bolts obviously isn't as clean or attractive, but it seems to be the most proven in terms of durability...and that I like.
This composite wedge thing though I must say looks nice. Again though, take downs are NOT something I spent much time with...so that is why I was asking. Any feedback on that system would be appreciated. How well are they holding up? Are they tight and secure? Do they make any noise? Do they align well?
Whichever system I use, I will only assemble the system on an unfinished bow that doesn't yet have the limbs completed because I want to be SURE good alignment is obtained after the system is installed.
I don't own this bow..I downloaded this pic, its a CheckMate. looks interesting.. one bolt,one pin (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/TakedownCrusader01LR.jpg)
I am thinking something like that, but more like the Stotler pictured above. I would stay lower in the riser...more below the grip. I wouldn't take it up into the shelf/sight window for sure as that is the weak link of the bow's riser.
Like others, I prefer the socket type system that Black widow uses. That being said, I have a Tolke whip with the bow-bolt and a Schafer longbow with the Robertson's conexion hinge and they both work great. Dave recessed the hinge and put overlays over it, so there is only a small piece of the hinge showing. I like Dave's installation much better then the one on my Robertson Peregrine because you cannot feel the hinge and it allows wide range of grip styles. Another type of takedown that I haven't seen mentioned is the one Duane Jessup at Thunderhorn Archery developed, it splits the handle down the center of the grip, from front to back, and is held together with two bolts that can be covered with a roll up grip if desired. It is a slick system.
I really like that idea. What kind of material are you thinking would work best for the center of the bow?
I have a longbow that is a sleeve type takedown. I like it. When it is together you don't notice that it is a takedown. The only thing I have noticed is a "creak" the first time you draw it after putting it back together. After that it works great. It does limit the size and shape of the handle.
my cruader takedown cracked! Another bowyer told me about this being a problem and low and behold mind did just the same. Sweet shooting bow and loved the td system! But even with all the phenolic she still split.
AkDan, which system did you use that broke?
Clayton95, who are you talking to? If me, I would use my standard riser materials. If someone else, my apologies for the interruption.
Lee... Have not heard any clacking. I know that some folks put a piece of micarta or glass in the gap. I use a thin piece of leather. Whether this, or the fact that I shoot lighter weight than most is the reason for the quiet, I can't say. Oh, one other thought just occurred... I do the cutting with a very fine Japanese draw saw, so my gap is extremely thin. I know others who use much wider blade saws... one guy told me he used a chop saw! Maybe a wider gap is more likely to clack?
I had a nice Black Widow PSR with the lockit sockit TD system,no problems with it and it looked great
Here's a couple I've built. My take on it is the bow bolt is a great system if the bow can handle it. You will not break the bolt but the bow can fail. With the locket socket you have no tools or parts to lose (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/Shortbldtr/Bows/IMG_1329.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/Shortbldtr/IMG_0612.jpg)
I think the 3 piece TD is the best way to go all the way around. you can do blind mounted limbs to give the illusion of a one piece like this one. and only have a couple bolts showing on the back of the belly ramps.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bow%20building/TD%20Splinter%20Kat/Katremodel.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bow%20building/TD%20Splinter%20Kat/Katremodel9.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bow%20building/TD%20Splinter%20Kat/Katremodel10.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bow%20building/TD%20Splinter%20Kat/Katremodel6.jpg)
Anyone come up with info on the locket socket construction.Some pics of both ends would show alot towards retro fittng my Savanna. I got the bevel lock in last week,sturdy,looks like it would work well, bit of work to get in though.I'm a little concerned with keeping things aligned.Not too much room for error. I think the socket would be better, not a mechanical connection.Probably a bit easier to keep aligned.Tried to test drive a widow a while back so I could see up close but they didn't have any at the time. Thanks guys Jim G
Back again, Any info on what resins and glass they are using?? Different cloth weights or matting.Or a combination of both? How much thickness is required. Could send it out possibly for a price but would rather do myself.Thks JG
Kirk the problem with a three piece is that it takes away from the classic look of a slim longbow. Other than that I agree. i would not use a bow bolt on a bet. I have seen a couple of failures and one is too many.
The composit pocket is the way to go but what a stinking mess to build!!! They are super strong and you cannot tell the bow is a two piece.
My personal reccomendation is to do this system though with a phenolic riser. At the minimum with a phenolic I beam. If you use a bow bolt definately go with phenolic.
I think what we are really missing out on here is a design that will mount the limbs on a slimline riser and look just like a regular longbow. I am sure it is possible and when I figure it out I will let you all know.
God Bless you all and good luck Lee.
Ya i suppose you are right Steve....
but i still can't get myself to cut a perfectly good bow in half trying this pocket rocket thing out...
It sure wouldn't take much to ruin a perfectly good bow......
i guess i gotta work on this traditional way of thinking more.... btw... if using glass is a crutch, what do you call this Traditional looking two piece thing anyway? a walker maybe? :bigsmyl:
My choice would be the sleeve system. Simple, strong, reliable, proven results...plus it looks good.
I have only built one bow using the bow bolt so I am by no means a expert on the it. When I decided to use the bow bolt, I contacted the Craig Warren at Warren Archery who makes it. I pulled no punches and told Craigs that I had read alot of post concerning failures with the bow bolt and wanted to get his input. Craig stated that of all the failures that he was aware of were due to the instructions not being followed. Craig stated that not all riser woods lend themselves to use with the bow bolt. If they are used, they have to be beefed up with glass or phenolic. Also, you must use MT-13 adhesive. Personally, I really like the look and function of the bow bolt. If you are considering using it, call Craig, he will answer all of your questions.
I really like the looks of a 1 piece longbow so I would prefer one that you couldn't tell when its assembled as well. I don't care for the looks of a 3 piece longbow. The only 2 pc Ive ever shot was the connexion hinge and didnt like that. The sleeve to me seems like it would be weak since the wood on the outside would be pretty thin. It's my opinion that the bolt would be the most durable.
protege lb...the last picture posted right before my post, my last post. I was warned it was a flawed design by another bowyer.
I have to admit it was the finest shooting bow I've ever owned. But it cracked just like I was told it would.
Has a place of honor on my wall! still trying to find one that I can shoot as well as that bow shot!
I've used the Connexion hinge, brass sleeves, three piece, bow hinges and the composite sleeves on both glass bows and BB backed bows. Someone gave me 4 bow bolts the other day...and I'll mess with them when time allows.
They all have their pro's and cons.
Nothing is quicker or simpler then the connexion type hinge. Properly installed it is very unlikely to fail. I don't like the looks much...but it's a pretty good system if you have limited skills or tools and very easy to retrofit on an existing bow.
The composite sleeve is becoming my favorite. Low cost, very strong, not all that difficult and you can't tell it's a takedown when finished. Bit more time consuming at first...but once you've done a few and have a jig to hold the bow while wrapping it's pretty quick.
John , I did mine with out a jig. I super glued the two pieces together with two tiny dots of glue. Just getting it glued together and aligned was a terrible time. finally did it though.
Then I like to never got it apart but man what a fit . It is perfectly tight and super strong. The bow I did is 65 lb so its a true test of the system and there is no give or flex at all. I really worked it out and love it.
A jig for this job is a must though and I will definately build one if I decide to do this. Do you have any pics of yours?
God Bless, Steve
I can't seem to find the build along I found yrs ago on another site. I'm sure it was on P of A. The guy that did it did a mock up on a piece of pine he shaped like the riser of the bow he was turning into a take down. I seem to recall he drilled 2 holes, one on either side before he cut the the bow in 2. Then he screwed the bow back together using the holes as guides. I think I might have posted a link on here before.....
I'll have a look.
http://www.piratesofarchery.net/bb/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=8014
There we go, but you need to register to see it.
The Thunderhorn two piece is in my humble opinion the slickest of the takedowns. Groves used to make two piece recurve that went together with a bolt and pin system. It was a sweet looking system. Seems he went to the three piece after a short time. Don't know if he had problems, or people just like the idea of being able to change limbs.
PZee,
Thanks for the link. I wonder if it would be better to go in more than just 1/8." It just doesn't seem like much holding it together to be honest. That fiberglass cloth must be super strong.
Will that system handle a 75#+ bow? If not, how heavy of a bow can it handle?
There are several systems out there that can work but have there limitations. I can't take credit for any system since I didn't design any, but being able to choose from any drove me twords the composite socket.
I only shoot 80+ lb bows and I needed a system that cold handle that. I have never had one of my TD's fail. The socket systems are so much stronger than the rest of the bow that the sight window will fail first. I know the 3 piece system is proven and I use it too, but have more confidence in my sockets in higher draw weight bows than I do in the 3 piece plus no tools necessary and no evidence of being a TD until taken down.
I had a bow bolt fail and bloody up my side and nuckles. It was in an all wood riser of a 60lb bow. Not a good idea! It was a new bow that I shot 5 times before it blew. They will work in bows with well reinforced risers-It's not the bolt that fails, it's the bow!-
Good luck, bigjim
I a customer break the tip off of one of my personal bows I sold. it was a 85lb at 30" -64" bow. I had shot this takedown many, many times. He had shot it with a 4.5 g per lb arrow about 40 times before the tip blew. He sent it to someone to have shortened to a 58" bow that drew 99lb at 28"s. This bow and socket system is still being shot today.
I will not and suggest to others not to retro existing bows with this system. Yes, lower draw weight bows and even mid weight may handle it fine, but there is no leway to adjust for alignment and the risers often have no extra support in them to handle the TD.
Protege- 1/8" is borderline but should be thicker.
There are many things to this system. It is quite easy once you have it figured out. Sixby, they are never easy to separate when building. I have had some so tight I nearly tore my vice from the bench (had someone holding the other end of the bow too). I have since remedied all of my issues in the building of the TD. I won't make myself a bow unless it is a two piece.
Good luck, Bigjim
I am currently looking into stocking the materials for resale. May also offer a how to on my site also. send me a pm if this interests you.
thanks, bigjim
Jim,
Thanks for the information on the strength of the locket socket. It sounds as if the locket socket is the way to go in terms of satisfying my goals when it comes to a take-down bow. I decided not to go with the "bow bolt" for many reasons. I understand the bolt itself doesn't fail, but the materials around it are the problem...but that to me suggests a design issue that lacks forgiveness in terms of final product strength. I do not want a take-down system that is prone to issues...and will not accept any sacrifices in durability.
Also, I don't like the fact that when a "bow bolt" is in the take down position that one could damage the threads on the bolt...and essentially be screwed. Limb bolts wouldn't have that problem since they could be replaced, but a bow bolt is permanent bolt and would have to be protected when taken down.
The locket socket sounds just as strong as using allen bolts and alignment pens AND it is tools free...and parts free...and it is undetectable when the bow is put together.
I will contact you for sure. I really appreciate the help. Oh, btw...thanks for helping John get the right arrows for his Protege Longbow. He told me he met you at a recent Tanneyhill shoot. He is a friend of mine and got one of the first 5 bows I ever made. Whenever I know someone looking for arrows, I always mention you first. I don't know if you remember or not, but I myself got about 5 or 6 dozen heritage shafts from you last year. I don't know how you get the great prices you do on those shafts, but it is certainly much appreciated.
This is the jig I use to keep things lined up when I wrap. It's crude, but works OK and is adjustable for most bows.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00010-20110327-0817.jpg)
The uprights slide wherever needed on the beam..and are then locked in place with screws.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00002-20110327-0813.jpg)
The bow limb is held in place with 1/4" bolts that go thru a 1/4" pc of polycarb that is drilled and tapped. I place the bow in the jig before cutting in 1/2 and screw the bolts snug to the side of the limbs. Mark where the bolts hit the limbs to get it back in the same spot. I then loosen one side along the entire length to remove the bow....whack it in half and then put it back in the jig to wrap. Retighted the side I loosened up. Gives me plenty of room to wrap the glass. I can put the entire jig back in the hot box to cure.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00008-20110327-0817.jpg)
This is one I wrapped a couple days ago...not finished...like to shoot them awhile first to make sure they don't whimp out on me.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00007-20110327-0816.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00006-20110327-0815.jpg)
This ia a BB backed gemsbok horn belly bow that's supposed to shoot a gemsbok this summer. :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00017-20110327-1429.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/John4040/IMG00019-20110327-1431.jpg)
I'm sure BigJim knows way more about this then I do...but so far they've held up. I need to keep working on sliming the the handles down a bit, they come out a little beefier then I like.
Learned the hard way that you need to spend the xtra time to get the correct amount of draft on the male end or they don't like to come apart.
I was concerned about using glass vs carbon to wrap, but visted with Black Widow at a trade show and they claimed all they used was glass. I'm using one kevlar wrap followed with glass.
Love that Carp skin John.
Weather or not it is necessary, I use one wrap of carbon for a couple of reasons. First I believe in over building. Second, it looks different. I place it at a stage in the wraps that tells me when I need to stop sanding before the socket gets too thin. I see the carbon and I know I can't sand any more. I have built over 150 fiberglass socket td's. and although it can be a little time consuming, they are a cinch to build (IMHO). Nearly half of all the bows I make are ordered as two piece. I also choose to use glass instead of phenolic in the riser. phenolic is tough, but is very flexible. Glass is considerably stronger and won't flex. Risers that don't flex as much have less problems and less handshock. The glass I'm using is also very nice to work with. Cuts and shapes super easy and no weave lines like you have in phenolic.
thanks, bigjim
John, Big Jim, Thanks for your goodness in sharing. I truly appreciate it. I went the other way and built three pieces right off the bat. I decided to try this because to me it just looked so nice. The one bow I have done convinced me that it is the way to go. besides the stink of the jell and having such a scarey time getting the bow apart I love it. Next time its epoxy and I will follow Jims protocol of using a wrap of carbon. I too have gone to glass in the risers for the same reasons. I do use phenolic on the back of some of my designs because I like milling it perfectly flat and mounting my limbs on it. John I believe the key to the thinness youj are desiring would be a 100 percent phenolic riser or at least a heavy phenolic I beam. Then you can make the handle thin like you want. I would not trust any wood going much thinner than you are going. JMHO.
God bless you all and again thanks, Steve
Sixby- with glass in the riser, you can make it nearly what you want. Understand that to make one 80+ lbs, I would suggest more glass, or more grip. I use the same glass in my personal bows, but my grips are what I would call a large. I would only change if someone wanted a real high draw weight and a small or xtra small grip.
I use a 1/4" wide I beam that goes from belly to back. It is offset enough that it will barely show when the shelf and window are finished. Entire glass or phenolic risers are not necessary. Also the resin I use has little to no oder. Release agent is critical though. I switched from one company to another and didn't switch release agents. Big mistake. I had made up 3 take downs and hadn't tried to pull them apart until I had all three ready. New resin burned through the release agent. Turned them all back into one piece bows again.
Don't get me wrong. This is a painstaking process at least in the beginning, but it is worth it.
Bigjim
BigJim, I'm using the kevlar similar to how you use the carbon.
Once I start to see a yellow tinge when sanding I know I need to stop.
What I was told was that carbon was the strongest (depending on how you measure strength) followed by kevlar and then glass.
I need to get some carbon to try, I'm told it wets better then kevlar also.
You should make a "how-to" DVD in your "spare time" :) and sell it along with the supplies. I'd be one of your first customers...I'm trying to figure all this out thru trial and error.
Speaking of errors;
Usually when I try something new I don't really screw it up until the 2nd or 3rd time when I start to get a little cocky.
That's when I need and get another lesson in humility.
For some reason, on the 3rd sleeve I tried I did not leave much of a parallel surface on the male end...in other words I ran my angled cut almost up to the shoulder.
When I strung the bow for the first time...and starting studying the joint where the two halves meet up it looked like there was a bit of a gap.
NAW...just my imagination, I thought...and I gave it a couple trial pulls and then realized there WAS a gap...and it was growing a little bit every time I gave the string a little tug.
Uh-oh...I thought...better get this thing unstrung before it comes apart in my face.
I almost made it, but it flew apart. It's now a one piece bow. :)
John, I like the jig. It is good to see you posting.
Everybody, thanks for the information regarding the socket system, I have two bows fully tillered and am waiting on finishing the handle section until I have a soscket build plan fully developed.
QuoteOriginally posted by John Sturtevant:
This is the jig I use to keep things lined up when I wrap. It's crude, but works OK and is adjustable for most bows.
Learned the hard way that you need to spend the xtra time to get the correct amount of draft on the male end or they don't like to come apart.
Your jig looks like a winner to me John !!Nowhere near as crude as the set up I've been using. Thanks for posting it!
What are you guys using for a release agent? I've been dipping the male end in wax. That creates it's own set of issues. You've got to get all of the wax out of the wood for the finish to work,then build up the finish to match the thickness of the wax you just removed.
Jim, when I am talking about solid phenolic I am only referring to specific instances , like a thin grip and heavy poundage. We must think somewhat alike because I have been building a lot of bows with a 1/4 in offset black phenolic I beam and with glass accents on each side of the beauty stripe. Also on my Talons I went from Phenolic overlays to glass overlays. Much stronger and stiffer. I was not doing it because the glass ruins band saw blades. However I have a bunch of old blades. (all bowyers do probably) and I grab one of them to cut the window and profile out with . Just takes a bit more time.
Jim , do you sell the resin and glass for the builds. I would be interested in buying some and some release if you do.
God bless you all and again thanks John for the pic of the jig. BTW your bow looks just like mine :bigsmyl:
I will do a build a long and have it on my site. There it will be permanant and I don't know how to do pics here anyway.
If your jig works for you, that is great, but I think I may have a simpler set up, well at least for me.
Whatever you do, don't round your risers out completely. I have placed an order for materials from all of my suppliers. I will put them together in kits. The smallest kit will do about 5 bows. Of course you don't need to do that many, but that is as small as I can get it without repackaging.
Understand, the way I do the socket is what I have found the easiest for me. You may have ways of modifying it. I have had a couple that didn't turn out as I planned. could have probably saved them, but I ain't doin that. Haven't had an issue since the first couple of bows though.
All this can be done with hand tools, but more specialized tools really make it easy.
thanks, bigjim
Sixby- I will be selling the kits by next week. If you look in to getting the lennox trimaster carbide blade, you won't regret it.
I have a grizzly bandsaw with this blade on it. At best, I replace this blade twice a year, but usually not more than once. yes it is $125 dollars, but I have used them to cut out all of my risers and all of my bows and every little thing that I need cut like new bow forms and antler etc. I have cut over 120 + bows out with one blade, maybe a good bit more. Most all of my risers have glass in them too. If you ain't got good tools, your just playing! :)
BigJim
Jim, looking forward to the build-a-long and your materials being available.
Always open to better ways and appreciate you taking the time to pass along your knowledge on this system.
The jig I use was made for bamboo backed horn-belly bows. All a bit different and shot in before turning into a takedown so I needed something adaptable to most shapes. At the time I wasn't messing with glass bows, just something I've been playing with recently for a change of pace.
PV, I've been applying finish to the male end first and then using a wax that is similar to the commercial mold release agents. I believe having the wood sealed and smooth helps when taking it apart. I tried the dipping in paraffin route but it was too thick unless I heated it up again to try and thin the wax out. Keep in mind I'm still trying to learn how to do this. My bow building...like my life...is just one continuous joyful experiment. I believe the right way to do it will be on Jim's website soon. :)
Jim, thanks for being so willing to share your knowledge on the locket socket take down system.
Thanks Jim, I have tried two of the lennox carbide blades. They both broke so many times I gave up on them. they did cut good until they broke. I had the last one welded 4 times before I tossed it. Thanks for the tip though, It sounds like you are getting good ones. BTW I am not the only one that has breakage problems. I know at least three other bowyers with same problems with them. I would love to get 50 bows out of a blade. That would be awsome to me. I averaged three or four bows with my last two Lennoxs.
God bless you all, Steve
I am looking forward to the "How to" on your site Jim. I have a Martin X-200 that I am planning on doing a socket take down on .
Jim, what size of bandsaw(wheel diameter) do you use the Lennox Trimaster carbide blade on and how many teeth per inch? I had one for a 10" Inca saw and it broke all the time like Sixby is saying. Finally I asked a saw filer for the sawmill I worked at and he said the breakage was because the small wheels created too tight a turn for the stiff blade. I now have a 17" Grizzly and am wondering if the trimaster would be good on it. Bob
Bob- I have mine on a grizzly ultimate. It is a 14" saw and although it is not ultimate, it does what I ask of it. I never change the blade until it starts snagging the belly side glass when cutting. I have built at least 400 bows since I started using these blades and I have only had maybe 5, but can only remember 4. I buy the 1/2" blade and don't believe there is a tooth option.
I have replaced all the shielded guide bearings with sealed guide bearings (must have the rubber gasket on each side to be sealed bearings). Haven't had any bearing problems since.
good luck, bigjim
Thanks Jim, I am going to give one a try. Bob
The socket takdown system seems like the way to go, for a two piece bow. I can't wait to see Big Jim's, how to video. I would also be interested in buying the Kit. Chad
I'm working on an osage bow right now with this takedown system. Comes in large and small. I know this sleeve system is proven and I like how it adds weight to the bow.
takedown (http://www.raptorstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=108_117_128&products_id=101)
Steve, The quality of those sleeves varies greatly. If you get a good , high quality socket fit they are great. Sadly many poor quality ones have been made and sold and after a period of time they loosen up badly. I had a nice Fox with one and it was very loose.
God bless, Steve
Sixby,
I'm glad you told me. I've experienced several that are on bows that have been around a long time and they are solid and yet work well. I wonder if you can tell if there's going to be a problem when you purchase? In other words, can hand selecting a good tight fit ensure future function?
I'll probably go for it anyway but I'll be watching closely to see how it performs over the long run.
Thanks
Its about time Jim! :D I have been hoping you would do a kit for quite sometime.
And John, put the glass strips down and walk away! Your BBO's are works of art, you dont need no stinkin' glass!
Jim, Thanks for the kit. I got it in. How's that build along coming?
If anyone can tell me where to get the center bolt system as posted on second page by PV please let me know by PM. Have a cut in half 57 Kodiak that I want to put back together, or have someone that knows what they are doing work on it for me. It's a 56" 57 Kodiak 50#@26" so I rather someone that knows what they are doing handle it. Want to keep as original looking as I can.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane