Trad Gang

I was messing around in my garage yesterday while it was cold, wet, and nasty out. I had about 4 stalks of river cane up in the rafters of my garage that have been there for over a year. So I snatched one down from there and went to work on it. I used my heat gun to straighten it and that worked very well. This stuff is kind of a pain to straighten, but once you get it straight it looks really good. I sanded the nodes and affixed a stone Obsidian point that a fellow trad ganger sent me, he's just getting started knapping and I thought this would be a fine way to use one.
(Thanks Mike)

The turkey feathers are mine and the lashing around the point is B50 string material, then super glue soaked to keep it tight. I don't have any pine tar so I had to improvise with the super glue. The red string on each end and through the fletching is red sewing thread. Then the yellow below the nock is also B50.
It's mostly for looks, but I built it to have the ability to kill if I was so inclined to use it someday.....otherwise what's the point in making it? Right?
I'm positive that it's plenty lethal and I was really surprised how nice the natural taper adds some awesome FOC balance to the completed shaft. All total arrow wt. came out to around 575gr. which would be just perfect for anything you wanted to put it into.

Thanks for looking!
~SEMO~

  (http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/TraditonalBowandRiverCaneArrowwithObsidianPoint002.jpg)

  (http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/TraditonalBowandRiverCaneArrowwithObsidianPoint003.jpg)

  (http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/TraditonalBowandRiverCaneArrowwithObsidianPoint005.jpg)

  (http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/mohunter68/TraditonalBowandRiverCaneArrowwithObsidianPoint004.jpg)

Good job, SEMO! Nice looking arrow. Gonna finish a full set?
Stan

Thanks Stan!
Not sure yet? I really do like the looks of them and plenty sturdy. As far as a completed arrow goes, these cane arrows are built like a Kenworth!
I'm trying to get permission to cut some more cane and if I do I'll probably make myself a complete set. I'll have to talk to my buddy Mike and see if he can hook me up with a set of matched Obsidian heads. I already found out that I am No flint knapper by any stretch of the imagination.   :knothead:

Good job, Better than my first arrow, After I glued the feather on I went to wrap it and it flipped over sideways and go glued on sideways... but that was before I knew to wrap one end then glue it them wrap the other...

Looks like a sissy pants arrow to me.. :)

You have done will my friend, sure looks like a keeper for sure.  Now all you need is a deer at about 15 yards and you are in business for sure.

QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Looks like a sissy pants arrow to me..  :)  

Well Roy, I was going to tie a set of testicles to the point end, but I thought it would give it too much FOC.   :goldtooth:

Nice looking arrow, Semo.   A secret about straightening cane and hardwood shoots is to do it is a few sessions. Start with the worst bends. Work a few at a time and let it cool. Then heat again and go to the next area, straighten a few and let it cool again. If you don't let the shaft cool you will rebend the ones you just took out. I try not to work two areas next to each other.

looks great semo

QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
Nice looking arrow, Semo.   A secret about straightening cane and hardwood shoots is to do it is a few sessions. Start with the worst bends. Work a few at a time and let it cool. Then heat again and go to the next area, straighten a few and let it cool again. If you don't let the shaft cool you will rebend the ones you just took out. I try not to work two areas next to each other.

Yep, I found that out real quick and you have to be careful while doing it also or you'll burn your hands if you forget which spot you just straightened. I started at one end and worked my way down the length of the shaft, then when I went to turn it around I grabbed ahold of a spot that wasn't cool yet....ouch!    
That stuff stays hot longer than I ever thought it would!

Hey Pat, have you ever tried a hot water bath and then lay them flat on a board or something to straighten them?? Just curious if that would work?

Nice arrow Chris, here are some I did.

 (http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/arrows/IMG_5698.jpg)

(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6221.jpg)

Very nice Roy!

Nice job Semo! I like that arrow. Looks tough!

Good advice Pat. I've had trouble getting cane to straighten and stay straight while I worked on other areas. You are a wealth of knowledge!

Roy yours look great too! I especially like those feathers in the background. Looks like you spliced black on the rear of turkey feathers. Cool!

Very nice work. Jawge

Nice arrows guys! You know them cane arrows air only good for groundhogs don't you? Good eatin' critters too! You reckon thats why ol' Roy got so many!   Art

We've got our share of ground pigs, but I've never had the desire to put an arra in one. I've heard the small ones are quite tasty?

Yes, this can is some tough stuff! This one I made spined out at .400 and I've only broke one of them so far. That was only because I didn't take my time straightening it the right way before I knew what was going on and didn't get it hot enough before I put pressure on it. It didn't actually break the cane, but snapped right at the node, more like seperated than broke.

I've got 3 more good stalks in the garage, I think I'll finish those up as well and maybe have enough to hunt with.

Chris how do they spine compared to wood? I have heard they will cover a wider poundage range. I shoot 31" arrows and most of my bows are 55#-60#. Wood arrows require 65-70 spine for me, can I expect the same in cane?

I can answer that for you Pearl. Since cane/bamboos are naturally tapered you'll need to add an additional 10-15# of spine to allow for the extra weight forward. You might not get the spine for the length you need and still keep a decent point diameter using cane. You'll be needing some type of bamboo, perhaps tonkin, bambuse, sasa or Japanese bamboo for your needs........Art

Sounds like too much work for me Art! I will stick with my Spruce for now. Thanks for the answer.

This one came out at .400 spine which is comparable to a 2117. I just shot it out of my 40# flatbow and it shot like a dart. I haven't shot it out of my 48# Grizzly yet. I figure I should be good to at least #50 or so?
I dunno, I'm new at using river cane so I'll just have to play around with it if I decide to use them.

Semo, my cane arrows shoot as well as anything I've ever shot. Even carbon.

Cool stuff Semo, Good job,wish we had cane in NY.

Another trick is to work on the nodes first, let them cool then work the innernodes(or vise versa).
 Bona, once I get the cane straight I will start at one end and work to the other end heating as I go. I sometimnes even scorch a little for camo effect. You have to be careful at the far end because any moisture will come out as steam and will scald you.
 Once you've "tempered" the shaft, lay it on a flat surface to cool and give it a few days before you stress it.

I need to start working on some arrows. Is this cane you sent me ready to work Pat?

Looks deadly!

I want some of those! That looks great.    :thumbsup:    How hard was it to attach the head? I have always wondered how you can get a flint tip to stay fixed solidly...But I haven't tried it for myself.

Thanks Dwarf, I don't think there's really any exact science to it. I just start a wrap around the shaft below the head then work across the head in "X's" then a couple wraps around the shaft, and repeat until it's secure. Then I soaked the B50 with super glue, some people use pine tar but I didn't have any of that.

The hardest part was cutting a notch in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in. That's kinda tricky to do without splitting the shaft, just have to go slow and easy.
I cut a groove with a fine tooth sawzall blade, then folded a piece of 180 grit around it to widen the groove out enough for the head to seat into.

Bona, they should be good to go!
 I do like Semo does with a single saw cut then open it with sandpaper(actually emory cloth)folded over and over. I also use a thin bladed knife if needed. I like to use pitch glue when hafting stone or trade points. I can set and true the head before wrapping with sinew. I recheck after the sinew has dried and if it needs adjusting I heat the head slightly, make the correction and let it cool. Generally it is good to go. If not, I heat and readjust.

FWIW - Ah luvs Cane arras, especially for my primitive bows - although they also shoot fine out of my lam bows too, i just tend to "save" them for my wood bows. They are truly as forgiving an arrow as you'll find IMO.

I don't like to burn my hands so I usually use those inexpensive brown, cotton work gloves that are so common, when straightening. They help when I get forgetful - or stupid - LOL.

Yep Bernie, I found out real quick that cane will hold heat a lot longer than you ever thought it would. But I escaped without injury.....this time.

Nice job Semo! I noticed you mention they shoot well, do the nodes give in trouble during draw or release?

Thanks man, and no they don't have any noticable effect that I could tell. I sanded them down smooth, not so much that it took away from the strength, but just enough to smooth them down some. I did try to line up my nock so the grooves in between the nodes were away from my bow.

I was surprised cause they actually shoot quite well. I think I will persue an entire set sometime in the future.

That's a sweet looking arrow Semo.  Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread but what is the brass band near the point for?

I like your string keeper too, do you have any close up pics of that?  I need to make one or two.  Thanks!

Roy,
Those are some girly arrows you made the only thing that would make them more so is if you painted them pink. You should just send me the whole lot of them to shoot at lizzards and such.

Semo cant waite to see more.

QuoteOriginally posted by Lee Slikkers:
That's a sweet looking arrow Semo.  Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread but what is the brass band near the point for?

I like your string keeper too, do you have any close up pics of that?  I need to make one or two.  Thanks!

I brought the "Tillering Critique" post back up to the top for ya Lee, look on page 5 for pics of the string keeper.

The brass band is a 45 shell casing with the base cut off and it's just a safety feature to keep the shaft from splitting up from the point. Mainly because you have to cut or file a groove in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in, then tie it into the shaft. The brass would keep the shaft from splitting all the way up and possibly ending up with a rock point through my hand.   :rolleyes:  
At least that's the idea anyway.

QuoteOriginally posted by KellyG:
Roy,
Those are some girly arrows you made the only thing that would make them more so is if you painted them pink. You should just send me the whole lot of them to shoot at lizzards and such.

Semo cant waite to see more.

Thanks Kelly, I think Roy should send those He Man arrows to me so I'll be able to see how the big boys do it. I'll need at least a half dozen to make sure I get it right next time.   :thumbsup:

Thanks Chris, I though maybe it was cut to length to add some weight to the tip but your explanation makes more sense.  I'll look at the other thread for the Keeper...

I just got done with a heat treatment on a HHB bow for the PA Trade to hopefully remove a bit of excessive prop twist on the limbs    :pray:  


I just sat down on the couch with some nice leather scraps so I'll see if I can't whip up a decent looking Keeper.

Many thanks,

Your welcome Lee, and send me your address when you get a chance so I can send you this caul pattern.

"I want some of those! That looks great.  How hard was it to attach the head? I have always wondered how you can get a flint tip to stay fixed solidly...But I haven't tried it for myself."- trumpkin

"The hardest part was cutting a notch in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in. That's kinda tricky to do without splitting the shaft, just have to go slow and easy."- semo


heres what i do fellas:
drill a hole through the shaft- the diameter matching the thickness of slot that you need, at the desired distance down the shaft, then cut with a juniour hacksaw down to the hole.

i made a clamp to hold the shafts in my vice, by taking two chunks of wood, clamping them together and then drilling an arrow shaft sized hole down the seam line, when you unclamp you have two pices each with a semi circle hollow in them-  drill a series of different size holes, and pack them with thin card as is required for different shaft sizes. if you screw/glue a small shelf on each top side( viewed while they are in the vice) they will stay in the vice as you change shafts- makes it a one handed operation and way easier.

you could also drill small cross holes through the wood( easier on the square chunks, than a round shaft) that will guide your small drill bit through- different size holes fore trade points, flint heads, or self nocks.
then cut a nice straight slot down from the top of the wood clamps, that will guide your first cut- that way everything is square and true.
clamp in a shaft, drill and cut the slot, one easy step, remove and widen the slot to fit the need.
g'luck
wayne

Nice Arrow I have been wanting to try that myself you may have just given me some inspiration. Thanks alot

Beautiful points! have made several myself so appreciate the tedious nature of the artist.