I have read maybe 40 threads on skinning a bow on here and finished applying the skins on my bow 2 nights ago. I finished trimming up the edges last night and am now contemplating the finish. The 'how to' says to apply 2 coats of thin super glue before putting the final finish on. Some other posts indicate that there were 'problems' with super glue, but I couldn't find anything that said what those problems were. So what is the real story, or is it just a matter of preference? Why use the super glue first instead of going straight to a spray poly or true oil finish?
In the end, I don't want a gloss finish so the final 2 coats were going to be a satin finish. Does the super glue really seal the skin to the limb or is it there to give it that 'under glass' look?
Ive never read about super glue sealing them either? I have read to super glue the edges to ensure they stay down before finishing them.
Super glue can get white streaks under your finish. I just use Tru-oil or Tung oil and I can make the skin look like glass after about 12 coats. After the first 3 coats start sanding between coats with 120 and this will get rid of the pieces of skin sticking up. I have a friend who likes the texture of rough skin on his bow, I don't.
Good tip rainman...I need to lock that in the memory bank.
I am sure Rainman means very lightly sand. 120 is pretty course, I use 300. Whether I sand or not depends on the skins, timber rattler, yes, western diamond back, sometimes, copperhead, never. It is easy to sand the color off a patch of skin.
Here is the link to the 2005 skinning how to that discusses using super glue.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000062
I have used tru oil before when refinishing glass limbs (and 300 grit paper in between coats). It came out nice, but too glossy and it's a lot of work. Is there any reason why a poly spray won't work as well? I don't mind the effort with tru oil, but I have 3 cans of poly laying around not doing anything.
A few years ago lots of folks were using super glue with snake skins. After a while some were experiencing cracking of the skins and I assume because the super glue was not flexible enough. Any standard finish will work well for skins. If you like a glass smooth finish you have to build up multible layers of finish. I prfer to use 5 or 6 coats of Tru-Oil and prefer the feel of the skins on the back of the bow and not a glass smooth surface.
I lightly sand the skins if needed and apply a coat of the Tite-bond glue over that. Then lightly sand that and then Tru-oil. Never a problem......Art
Pat, thanks, that was what I was looking for. Realizing the original 'how to' was written 6 years ago, I figured that there was likely more experience out there now with the technique. What you say backs up what Rainman says. I also am not looking for a glass smooth finish as I have seen some skinning jobs that were like that and the skins looked fake to me. I guess I'll try the Tru-Oil.
Art - Since the TB dries to a yellowish tint, wouldn't that affect the color of the skins?
QuoteOriginally posted by Stinger:
Art - Since the TB dries to a yellowish tint, wouldn't that affect the color of the skins? [/QB]
Not that I'll noticed.........Art
I usually do the same as Art with the TBIII and never noticed a color change but I use only a very thin layer. I started doing this on a sinew backed bow to help increase the water proofing for the sinew. I add a thin layer of TBIII over the back of the sinew/hide glue, let it set then add the skins. When they are dry I add the thin layer of TBIII over that then the Tru-Oil.
Pat, Art - so what is the purpose of putting the coat of TBIII on? It doesn't make sense that the skins would need waterproofing. Why not just go straight to the Tru-oil, or poly, or whatever finish?
The glue tacks down the edges of the scale sockets (this is what gives the skins their rough texture). This produces a much better and smoother finish with less coats of finish........Art
Snake skins will shead water but if you drop a dried skin in water it will soak it up like a sponge. I use it for this reason. I know the Tru-Oil will help in the waterproofing but this is just a little extra protection for me. Also like Art says it helps to smooth out the shin before adding the finish.
OK, thanks guys! I wish I had not removed the tape from the edges of the limbs last night, but I will just have to be very careful applying the TBIII in a thin layer and keep it on the skin and off the edges.
BTW, did you use wipe on Tru-Oil or spray on? I have only used the wipe on in the past. I also assume that after the 5th or 6th layer of that I can apply a satin poly over the top to cut the shine down?
I talked to a couple of know boyers at the Kzoo show and what I got from it was the clean the skin real well after applying them to the bow, like rubbing them down with Denatures alcohol a few times and lightly sanding or wire brushing them between the alcohol wipes, you need to get all the oil out of the skins and real clean from what I understand. One bowyer said all they use as a top coat is Thunderbird.
Also tru-oil works very well without much risk of messing the skins up.
The key to a nice smooth finish more than anything else is light sanding (I use very well worn 180 grit) when needed. Smear (with fingers) a light coat of TB glue to tack any fluff back down. Light sanding again before appling a finish. I used both Tru-oil and spray urethane independently or one over the other......Art
OK, I'll give that a try. It just seems strange to sand the skins down. Would that be against the grain of the skin (against the grain of the way the scales lay when they were there)? I would be afraid of taking all the color out as Eric said. The skins are Eastern diamondback BTW. I thought that it was the variance in the skin that is left once the scales are removed that gives the skin the color. The fluff as you call it.
Should have mentioned, light sand in one direction (head to tail) only before you apply any glue. Remember, very light sanding using fine sandpaper, your call here. ......Art
Got it, thanks Art!
I usually wait until the first coat of Tru-Oil is cured before I sand if at all. I do give each coat a good buffing with 0000steel wood and after the last coat is completely cured I do a quick spray of satin poly to reduce the shine.
Keep a damp paper towel handy when you put the TBIII down on the back and you can easily remove any glue that gets on the side of the limbs bufore it dries.
i used the "skinning a wapiti" method that stinger posted. although it was done way back when, the skins still look as though they were put on yesterday. i have had no problems whatsoever with the super glue cracking or developing white streaks. i remember doing 7 coats of superthin fast drying CA glue bought from a local hobby shop. then i finished with minwax helmsman spar urethane, 2 coats.
don
never have used superglue.No flex at all. I only use TB3 to glue skins on....I would use 7 coats of the spar, before I would use any STCA.
I ended up putting 2 very light coats of the TB III over the skins. That dulled the look of the skins significantly. The detail that was in the design was lost. I now have 4 coats of Tru-oil on top of that and the skins don't look as dull but still not as nice as before I added the TB. The most noticeable issue is that the skins overall are much darker than they were originally. That may be due to the fact that the limbs were a dark forest green and the diamondback skins were fairly thin. I plan on another 2-3 coats of Tru-oil and then a layer of satin poly to knock the glare down. The outcome is still very nice, just a little darker and not as sharp as I expected. If I do another set of limbs, I don't think I will put the TB III over the skins. I think I will try going straight to Tru-oil.