Hey guys I have mostly only been building selfbows and the only bows I really know how to make besides composite bows which I am getting a little more into. I was going to try a backed board bow. I found some kits for sale pretty cheap. I was wondering which bow you guys think would be better. A hickory backed Ipe or a hickory backed osage. The Ipe kit is 14 dollars cheaper. I know some people would argue that the Ipe is better for this kindof bow. What do you guys think?
Both ipe and osage will make a great hickory backed bow. What are the dimensions of these kits? is everything pre shaped or is it just stock components(slat, riser block and backing strip)? If you don't mind, how much does it cost? The reason I ask is you might be able to find the wood locally and make 3 or 4 bows for what what I've seen some of these kits cost.
Anyway both the osage or ipe can make a very good hickory backed bow!
The ipe is 40 dollars and the osage is 54. (plus shipping) Here is the osage kit.
The Kit Includes:
- One Osage Orange wood belly core - 5/8" X 2" X 72"
- One Hickory backing strip - 2" X approximately 3/16" X 72"
- One Osage Orange wood riser/handle block - 5/8" X 2" X 15"
- Two Ipe limb tips - 5/16" X 1 1/4" X 2"
and here is the ipe kit.
One IPE wood belly core - 3/4" X 1 1/4" X 70"
- One Hickory backing strip - 1/8" X 1 1/4" X 70"
- One IPE wood riser/handle block - 3/4" X 1 1/4" X 10"
- One Purple Heart handle accent block - 3/4" X 1 1/4" X 10"
- Two Purple Heart limb tips - 5/16" X 1 1/4" X 2"
For these types of bows I think I would do a pyramid limb design and a perry reflex. For osage and for Ipe what type of width do you suggest? I am assuming the same as a selfbow for osage. About 1 and 1/2 to 1/2 inch taper and a flat belly?
Where did you find the kits? Thats a fair price if you dont have osage or hickory lumber right down the road.
****. make sure you guys save me one ;)
They blocked it.. well On E
B
A
Y
You should grab a few up for that kind of money. The wood itself may not be worth the money, but if you dont have a planer, table saw and band saw its worth every cent. Your suggested measurements sound pretty good for an average 45-60# bow at 62-66" long.
I like the osage for dust and allergan reasons only. Ipe is great as Pat suggested, but it requires some lung protection to work with. Kind of nasty stuff to breath in.
62-66 is just what I was planning for. So you guys think the hickory backed Ipe should have the same specs as an osage pyramid style for that length?
i build my ipe/ hickory 1 and a 1/4 at the fade tapering to 3/8.
my osage 1 and 1/2 tapering to about 1/2.
make sure with ipe that you get a nice even taper, it does chrysal.
osage sure is snappy.
my ipe bows always feel so nice and ligfht in the hand- i do love them. i make them all to bend through the handle.
g'luck
I almost pulled the trigger on those also- i hadnt been able to locate any ipe until today....
Allright guys I think im gonna buy the hickory backed Ipe w purpleheart tips kit.
good luck! let us know how it works out!
If it's from Stickbow Archery (formerly known as Siegeworks Archery) be very careful. Lots of guys been screwed by that guy,
you could easily pay 40 dollars by the time you buy those pieces seperately, its not a bad price, the real difference is that if you bought them on your own the price point is how fancy you decide to get on the riser wood. I get Ipe at a decking supply store at 3 dollars a foot. 18 dollars for a board that will make at least 3 bows with my meager skills (sam harpers site shows him getting 6 bows from it) is awfully hard to beat.
is the kit already glued up? don't forget the expense of buying glue. TB3 is pretty cheap, and for a hickory backing will work fine. But i am a real fan of boo/ipe. get you some URAC 185. you don't need a hotbox.
20-25 dollars for glue, 18 dollars for ipe, thats 40 bucks right there, without the backing, riser or tips...but if you get it yourself you can easily make 3 bows for the same price (i know i am not figuring shipping)... just something to think about, cause you know you won't end up making just one...thats why we're all one here;)
Ipe can be narrower than osage,its very dense. I make mine 1" wide, bamboo backed and stiff handled. It makes a great bow, and up to 60# is a piece of cake with 1" ipe.
Both ipe and osage are excellent combos with boo or hickory. I personally prefer hickory. My hickory backed osage would be 1 3/8 at the fades and out 6" then taper to 1/2" tips(for now, 3/8" later). For ipe, slightly narrower.
I found this very same kit and even started a thread just two days ago about it. I bought the hickory/ipe, hickory/osage and straight osage board. All the materials seemed to be very good quality, cut, sanded and shaped to the stated size. I have yet to start one though. I talked to the seller he seemed genuine and honest about his product so I went ahead and purchased. Hope it works out for you.
I have plenty of Titebond 3, will that work?
It will work great Chris. Be sure to have good coverage and a smooth, clean mated surface.
What do you guys think about the grain? If the grain run if is bad on the core of an ipe or osage core should I pannic?
I would like to think that somebody selling bow kits would consider that prior to offering them. But you just never know. Take a pic of the piece concerning you and post it, maybe its just fine.
Hey guy, This is my first post but I've been a member of the site for over a year. I've learned a bunch from you guys and have built several successful bows and broken my fair share. I've ordered several kits or boards from this guy and have not had one blow up on me yet. I've found it cheaper to order just boards from him and cut my own backing.
How long would you guys suggest letting a Hickory backed Ipe glued with titebody 3 dry? And how should I hold them togeather while they are in the form. I made a simple form earlier today. It has a red oak base and 61 inches apart there are 2 by 4s 7 inches high.
24 hours is ample as long as its not in a 50 degree room. Lots and lots and lots of clamps, about 2" apart. I use c-clmaps on the high pressure areas, fades, handle and tips and a variety of ratchet and spring clamps everywhere else. I have 34 clamps and use all of them every glue up. Alternate sides of the bow as you place the clamps. Ol Roy boy from PA has posted some nice pics showing this, he uses all c-clamps. You need to alternate sides of the bow so the weight of the clamps isnt all pulling on one side of the blank. TBIII sets quick when squeezed down, work smart but dont lolly gag or you will be in trouble. I dry run every bow I glue up just to be sure everything looks good prior to glue. I even place all 34 clamps.
I have bought materials from the guy "kfast", and its good materials. I honestly don't know how the guy is making much money.
Some of the cores wasn't as straight grained as I like. But works.
Sounds like a great deal if you concider the cost of the tools required for someone to get into producing there own laminates. Wood is one thing but tools are the big investment.
I have quite a few tools the only things I could really use are maybe a table saw and a nicholson #49