Just wondering, I keep hearing that some guys will only use dried snake skins to back a bow and I'm curious to why. I've backed over 100 recurves with both tanned or dried snakes and have no difference to remark about EXCEPT that the scales come off easier on dried. But not that much easier, unless its a thick skin like boa, python or large watersnakes.
What have you guys found that I haven't?
Usually the tanned, have glycerin in them and might not let them glue down as good.
Ah ha, a glycerin product would pose an adhesive problem. I've mostly tanned my own so I havent had issues.
I've heard that about glycerin myself, but it doesn't really make sense to me why? Glycerin is water soluable, so it stands to reason that if you soak your skins in warm water before applying them the glycerin would get washed away......would it not?
I really don't know personally cause I'm still trying to get my first set of skins. It's a shame too cause the copper heads are real thick here where I live, but it's illegal to kill any snake in Missouri unless it's a threat.
Try road kill Semo. I get many many many skins every year just from roadkill. I won't kill a snake just for it's hide. But find the right roads and the right time of year and you could be overwhelmed with skins.
QuoteOriginally posted by SEMO_HUNTER:
but it's illegal to kill any snake in Missouri unless it's a threat.
I find most snakes to be quite threatning so I don't see the problem with getting skins. ;)
Sorry to keep disrupting your post Yornoc, I'll just reply to this and leave it alone.
I emailed my department of conservation about this a good while back just so I would know for sure where they stood on the subject.
Here's a quote from the email I got that pertains to road kill snakes, because I had also thought about that.
"It is illegal to pick up and possess a road-killed snake without authorization from a conservation agent. If the agent authorizes your possession of the snake, they will provide you with paperwork that will make it legal for you to possess it."
Holy crap, governmental genius at it's best. Sorry for your luck Semo.
There are quite a few ways to tan snake skins. The Glycerin method I learned uses anti-freeze(etholine glycol) which is basically glycerin and alcohol. When you soak the skins in the anti-freeze solution the glycerin is absorbed into the celly, carried by the alcohol. The alcohol evaporates leaving the glycerin in the cells. I uses to use this method but the glycerin will prevent adhesion with the glue. Also glycerin tanning is more or a curing than an actual tanning.
You can buy commercial snake skin tanning chemicals but I don't think tanning is necessary for most snake skin uses.
Now I use only dried skins for bow backs and in leather work. As long as the skins are sealed so they don't absorbe moisture they will last for years.
One problem I have had with tanned skins(with commercial tanning solutions)for bow backings is the skin becomes leather and as such becomes more absorbant to moisture, almost like a sponge. I have used tanned snake skins over the years a few times and was never pleased with the results.
Indains used skins soaked for a few days then let dry in uruin.I've did this a couple times and it works great. I use DENATURED ALC dose the same thing and just seams a lot bettter.
Urine tanning is as ancient as man. Just don't get it wet in hot weather! d;^)