I had planned on doing an Ash backed Cherry stave bow but I'm going to save that one for later. This is for my oldest son who is 12. So the target draw weight is going to be around 30 lbs. It's going to be an Ash back on an Ash belly. I bought a block of Walnut the other day so I'm going to use that for the handle, overlay, and tips. It should look pretty good hopefully it will survive tillering.
I'll be posting pics along the way so others with a better eye for tillering can help me out!
Here it is clamped up and drying overnight. I used TBIII to do the glue up.
(http://bazillionlights.com/Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2clamped.jpg) (http://bazillionlights.com/Images/photobucket/Archery/handle.jpg)
Thanks for your input!
Gary
Can't go wrong with Walnut. Looking forward to seeing how things progress.
What Savage said, can't go wrong with Walnut. Great combo,Walnut on Ash, should look super. Please post pictures as you go.
How do you thin the backer down evenly after its all glued up?
Pearl..
Sorry for the optical illusion...
The back is about .125 Ash When I glued it up I used another Ash board to even out the load from the clamps. It's the same width as the backing so it looks like one board that needs a ton of thinning..
Here it is glued up!
Next I need to trim up the width then the thickness.
(http://bazillionlights.com/Images/photobucket/Archery/Ashbow2glued.jpg)
Ahhhhh! I see now
Sides are cut and the brace height is about 1/4" with a draw weight of 150lbs at 1". :D
Ash is some strong stuff!
This is the growth ring orientation of the back and the belly. I probably could have done a self bow with this board the growth rings are very straight and I could have chased a ring.
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tipbacking.jpg)
Cant wait to see more
this is a closeup of the ash and walnut together.
I think this one is going to look cool! I'm going to leave the handle a block until I get though tillering so it sits tight in the tillering tree. I'll also be doing a Walnut overlay and tips.
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2woods.jpg)
How bendable do you want to get the bow to consider it floor tillered and ready for the tree?
I have band sawed and sanded the limb thickness it bends about 4" when I lean on it a bit. Is it ready or should I take it farther? (http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2floortillered.jpg)
I'm being more careful during tillering. I havethe long string on and it's on the tillering tree. It's real heavy draw weight right now. I'm only pulling it to the intended 30 max. I've exercised it quite a bit 100 times between wood removal. I can only pull it back about 3" without hitting the limit.
Back to the basement... :p
Very nice grain on those slats. Subtract one inch from your target draw length. That way after finish sanding and shoot in occurs you will be right at your actual 1" longer draw lentgh and target weight.
Okay, I'll do that. I have a long way to go!
I'll start throwing some pics up as I get it a little closer.
I've exercised it no less than 50 times between wood removals. I'm still being pretty aggressive with that, I'm using a plane and a surform. I still need to do some more work before bracing it with a shorter string.
This pic shows about 1" of string follow. Before I started to flex it it had a 1/2".(next time I'll put it on a block style of form to get some reflex.
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tiller1.jpg)
This picture shows 2" of draw at the tips at about 14 lbs. It's Bending !!!! Its Bending! :thumbsup:
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tiller2.jpg)
This picture is at 4" of draw and 25 lbs.
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tiller3.jpg)
What I see here is the tips from halfway on each limb are stiff and barely bending. I'll work on those now.
Tips are starting to bend now...
and it's time for a football break.
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tiller5.jpg)
I did a little bit more scraping after work. It's now being drawn 13" at 28 lbs. I think it's ready for the short string. I just made up a gizmo tillering tool at work today. Looks like it's going to work great.
What do you think of the tiller so far?
(http://www.bazillionlights.com//Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2tiller6.jpg)
Looks like it going to be a good bow. Imo it looks a little stiff right limb, just out from fade to mid limb.
Nice start keep us posted!
Bang :(
I think the glue (TBIII) may have let loose I don't see any imperfections in the wood. If you look you can see the center line pencil line from between the back and belly in a larger area than I would expect. What do you think? So how many bow should I expect to blow up before I don't cuss when this happens? :mad:
(http://bazillionlights.com/Images/photobucket/Archery/ashbow2bang.jpg)
you will always cuss and cry!!
thats why i like the urac- i feel that it is a bit more forgiving- i doesent mind the slight gap- so you dont over clamp- thus creating glue dry areas, and its very easy to work with.
c clamps can sometimes be a problem as pressure is very specific to the clamp site- there is not as even a pressure distribution as other methods,
like the inner tube wrap- (i use a form and elastic bands)- the clamps can lead to dry spots- especially when dealing with thin backing strips.
dont give up now- get straight back in the saddle.
g'luck
wayne.
Thanks Wayne,
So I shouldn't use c clamps with URAC?
How about spring clamps? Or should I band it?
I was just thinking of putting a little reflex into the next try. Maybe a couple of inches so it's straight after tillering.
Oh, man! Better luck next bow.
Stan
Boy Gary, that sure is some tough luck! It sure makes you feel bad for a while. I'll be looking for pics of your next one.
Duffy
If you go back and look at your glue up pic you will see areas where there are 3-4" gaps between clamps. I would bet this blow up is because of the initial glue up pressure. Swing by Home Depot or Lowes and pick up some spring clamps to help fill the gaps. I found them on sale one day at Lowes for $1 each and bought every one they had. Now when I glue up I don't have more than 1/2-1" between clamps and haven't had any glue failures since.
Looks like it had potential though.... (try it again!) :)