Ok i'm just about ready to take the dive and try to build my first take down recurve. I've followed lots of build alongs but still have some questions.
What impact does wedge thickness and length have?
Why do some people use one parallel and one tapered lamination?
What if you used both parallel?
thanks
Kyle
Also, my bob lee limbs have an exterior wedge that compensates for the angle of the limb wedge, providing a square surface to bolt to. I have never seen this done in a build. Seems like if you drill square to the limb surface, you will be bolting into the riser at angle that is not square to the surface that the limb attaches to. Is this not an issue?
ttt
Kyle,
I've over in Seguin, and I'm about to start my first takedown as well (a longbow). I know what you mean by having an extra little wedge on the bob lee limbs. Not sure if I would try to duplicate that or just go with a flat limb pad to match a flat limb.
Brett
Kyle - I've only built one take down recurve (I'm more of a longbow guy), so I am by no means an expert.....The length of the wedge will influence the weight of the bow by affecting the length of the working limb. Longer wedge = higher weight. As far as wedge thickness, I'm not sure since it all tapers down to nothing anyway. You can make the wedge square for a couple inches on the thick end before the taper starts. This will give you a square surface for the bolt. If you go with two parallels vs. a parallel and tapered lamination, the weight will be higer. I'm not sure what it would do to the performance.
You might want to get Bingham's instructional materials and follow their plans for your first one. Then once you've got some experience you can set out on your own design.
Good luck,
John
Kyle; If you use an external (reversed) wedge, You drill square to the bottom surface. The limb bolt washers (bezzels??) will compensate for the slight angle difference on the top of the limb. Clear as mud?? Ray
jsweka, thanks for the info. I have access to the bingham instructional info via a friend. I may try the flat wedge that then tapers.
bow-n-head, I see no way that the bezels will compensate for anything unless they are taperered themselves.