Well here is my first actual cut tree and start from scratch bow and it's sweet gum. I didn't have a draw knife so I used my machetii(sp.) and it all came of very easily. I am bound and determined to find a good use for sweet gum, maybe it will make a good bow. How long do I need to wait to let it dry before beginning? (http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/minden79/0127111646a.jpg)
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/minden79/0127111741a.jpg)
You can take it down to floor tiller stage with no problems and it will dry quicker like that too.
That sure is a nice straight post, I'll give it that much. Don't know a thing about that wood, but give it a try.......what ya got to lose?
Pat, I put her in the shed until I finish up my red oak board bow...I also have to do some learnin to move forward from this point with the sweet gum as I have no idea how to lay this out and move forward.
Interested to see how it turns out. I have some cut and split that has seasoned for 2.5 years or so.
Make sure you seal the end with some glue or something.
Dave...seal it even though all the bark is gone? I am all new to this.
For some reason I fear that she may twist and do all kinda crazy things as it dries...maybe I should get it roughed out. How do I proceed from this point? Does anyone have a pattern of sorts?
You can rough it out to about 2" wide by 2"thick x 6'long and then clamp it down to a 2x4 with some spacers underneath it and that will keep it from warping and twisting. Yes you need to seal the ends and possibly the back too.
How do I know which side will be the back? Just pick a side or is there a particular way to go about it?
Usually the back is where the bark was.
If the bark peeled right off and you didnt nick into the first ring then thats where your back is. If you gouged into it youll have to go down another ring to find your back.
If it is straight grained as it looks get it split. The you will have two staves.
Flyboy, I am new also, but from what the TG folks have told me is that you always seal the wood.
If you split it into staves and then layout a 2" wide bow, and make it 5/8" thick all the way across the limb, it shouldn't warp. If you put it on a form, you can induce reflex in it too. It'll be dry in a month that way.
Here's some pics of splitting: Wood 2009 (http://sticknstring.webs.com/wood2009.htm)
Here's how I rough out osage. You won't have to chase a ring though on that whitewood. Make your bow 68" from nock to nock. Make it 2" wide from the handle to midlimb and then taper to 1/2" tips. Mark the center of the stave and then layout a 4" handle and 2" fades. Roughout (http://sticknstring.webs.com/roughout.htm)
Then tiller it: Tiller 101 (http://sticknstring.webs.com/tiller101.htm)
John I am walking with you on your reply; however, please forgive me guys...I am still confused as to where the back of the bow will be because I scraped off all of the bark at once, there is no bark left on the stave. I don't think I could split it either because in my opinion there is not enough wood there to make two staves. In my case, do I really have to worry about where the back is going to be that much? I will move forward with what John posted in his reply pending knowing where the back of the bow is...
Flyboy,
the back is what is on the out side now as long as you did not cut thru it and you got the paper like layer off under the bark. Dont worry to much about that. You will only need to 2" depth at the handle area and 5/8" on the limbs or less.
Do a search on here for hicory or other white wood staves and see how they prep them. I mean even most saplings get split.
Good Luck,
Kelly
How wide across is that log?
Pick the best side of the pole for your back. Make a mark in the middle of the pole from end to end. From there make a mark 2" on either side of center and another 2" either side of the last mark. This will be your handle and fade areas. Leave the handle round and begin to thin the belly side of the pole tapering down from the handle to the limb at the fades. When you get it reduced enough so the tips move 4" when floor tillered tie or clamp it down to a 2x4, back side down and place it in a warm dry place for a month.
Thanks KellyG and Pat B, sounds like a plan...John I will getcha a measurement on the pole tomorrow.
if all you got is a machete for right now , there is a post on one of the other sites i think pp about a minimalist survival bow , i think 3 tools max. couple people used machete's...
-hov
The pole now has a noticable bend in it, not too bad though...which way should I do the back now since it has bend, tips pointing toward the belly or away from the belly?
I'm headed out now to cut her to 70" and find the center and measure the fades and get ready to start roughing it out...pending a reply to my above question.
Choose the best side like Pat said, and you can clap it down to a board as it dries. You take out or and some bend as you need while drying. I am sure other who have done this will answer soon. It is the weekend so many are building.
Kelly
I guess there is really no way around splitting it lengthwise...I can't clamp a round back to a 2X4...so, I am off to split it.
You can clamp(or tie) a round back to a 2x4. I have done it both ways. Find the best side for the back. You can make any adjustments later with heat.
Ok, I got it split...I did not get two staves out of it as my michete ran on me and departed the pole at about halfway down. I wonder if I have messed this project up already? I assume the back will be the split side? I have a gouge in the split side closest to the camera too. Thoughts please...
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/minden79/split.jpg
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/minden79/split2.jpg
The back is the side with the uninterrupted growth ring, the crowned side.
QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
The back is the side with the uninterrupted growth ring, the crowned side.
Ok...so my back is going to be the non split side...the side that just has the bark stripped off?
Yes! You'll want to keep the belly side as flat as you can. With the crowned back the belly needs to be flat.
one thing about sweetgum is it has interlocking grain like an elm, its sometimes easier to make skillsaw kerfs in the log before splitting. to aid in the split and also keep from having runout. and defintely strap tie or clamp down when you get it reduced because it loves to twist and warp. hope this didnt come too late
Ken75, thanks...that will deff help next time.
One more question to throw out there...the back of the bow has a couple places where limbs were. How do address this? Just reduce the remainder of the little limb/twig as close to the back as I can get it?