First the good news: I now have my new bandsaw set up and running. Running very well in fact. Now for the problem: I can not get my 1/2inch timberwolf blade to flutter like the set up guide says it will. In fact the only time it flutters is at almost no tension. The only way I can tell its fluttering is because it hits the plastic guard that covers the blade as it returns to the upper wheel. I have all the guides open and no where near the blade. Anyone want to give me a guestimate at the tension a 1/2in 3 tpi blade will need? Or am I just missing something?
Adam
Adam
What kind of saw do you have? 1/2 inch blades will not flutter like a 3/8 blade I use a push method to see how loose it is. Youtube for bandsaw setup there are a couple good vids on it.
Terry
I heard so much about the Timberwolf blades that I bought me a 3tpi to try. Must have gotten a bad one. Can't even cut a 3/4" poplar board without burning the wood. Must not have any set in the teeth.......... just my luck. Warrenty says the blade can't be returned if package is opened. That really bites! Art
Terry, I have a a Grizzly 14inch G0555P or something along those lines. No riser. So it takes a 93.5" blade. I was originally going to go for a 3/4 blade but settled on the 1/2 for a bit more than just resawing.
Art, no problems yet on the scrap I've tried. The kerf on the blades are supposed to fall into the thin kerf category, so I suppose any movement from internal stress could easily pinch the blade. Compared to the little 9" delta I had this thing is a dream (blade and saw).
My 12" craftsman is tuned pretty good I think. Went by the instructions, got the blade to flutter, tightened until it stopped but that didn't work either. Tried different tensions but never got anything but a burnt cut........Art
I barely tension my Timberwolf blades. Just enough to keep it on the wheels. They last a very long time that way. It takes a very loose tension to get flutter on the Delta 14" I use. I use 4 TPI.
If you can't get it to flutter, just tension it until it cuts well. Less is better.
Adam
I have the same saw and Timberwolf blades are made to run with less tension as John has said.
If you look at the tension spring there is an adjustment and info in your book on how to set it, if you are not getting enough loose tension that might need to be adjusted. Your grizzly manual describes how to do it.
Terry
I just checked and my saw likes the tension at just under what the spring indicator says I should use for a 1/4" blade.
Thanks John, thats a bit higher than I set it to test. Still for the life of me can't get it to flutter, but ah well. Waiting on a new try square (last one got abused when I moved my shop) and I'll finish setting the table and fence and get to resawing some backing strips. Hope she makes it through without the burning problems Art reported. Thanks for the help guys.
Adam
How about your speed that you are using? I just got a new Grizzly and just have the blade on it that came with it, but have two other blades for resawing. But I know the speed will have to be changed. Just asking and trying to learn as well.
Mine has two speeds Charles. Higher speed is for wood cutting and the slower for metal cutting.....Art
Ok, I'm lost. Why do you want flutter in the blade?
QuoteOriginally posted by razorsharptokill:
Ok, I'm lost. Why do you want flutter in the blade?
Wondering the same thing. I just tension mine to the position for 1/2 blade. Whats all this flutter about?
Guess this is what they are referring too. Guess its a timberwolf deal.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=391
Timberwolf blades are made to be low tension blades (increased blade and tool life) and in order to set the correct tension, you must establish a benchmark. In this case the benchmark is the tension at which the blade flutters, then you apply tension from there.
Shes a monster in my eyes. Simply devoured some 3/4 hickory backed jatoba scrap I had laying around.
Adam