Well, all this talk of swapping bows and rabbit hunting got me off my duff today...
There's a bunch of building going on here and some good input so, I thought I'd document my share too. Time for me to give a little back to the "BENCH".
Follow along on four attempts of mine to make shootable osage bows built with only simple hand tools. Anyone that has a drawknife, rasp & saw can do it. I'll try and explain the basics I use as I go along with this thread. SHOOT,,, I might even get someone to help me a bit.
I realize many of you in this section are more experienced than myself but, I hope those more experienced & others may learn something from how I do this building of selfbows.
Oh,,, Not sure how long this will take but should keep me out of trouble for awhile.....
DAY ONE; 10am to 2pm
I'll start off with 3 staves... the forth one not shown yet comes in in to play in just a bit. My plan was for 3 staves but when I realized I had all 4 quarters of this log, I decided to make it 4 bow staves and do the entire tree trunk.
The staves were hand cut with my buck saw, split with metal wedges into quarters and their ends were sealed with shellac over two years ago. They are 73" long osage orange staves and are around 5" to 3" across the back or bark side of each quarter stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood.jpg)
Here you can see the growth rings in the 1st 3 staves. The fourth staves rings were thinner and has a few waves in it. This side of the tree was growing against another tree if I recall correctly, making this staves rings a bit thinner.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood2.jpg)
And, here are all four quarter staves. You can see where the knots and holes used to be on the inside of the tree where they are now split apart. Also, I believe this tree had maybe been in a fire at one time due to some of the black and damage in the wood. Maybe not, maybe just a weird or pithy vein and old bug holes grown over???
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood5.jpg)
Here are some of the matching holes that were in the log along with the black or burnt looking wood inside of them??? Some of the knots, limb viens and holes you see here and above will be cut away and not in the end result. There's still alot of wood to come off these staves!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood4.jpg)
Okay, now clamp one stave on its side in the vise and get to work. At this point, the staves are pie shaped and I need to square them up a bit.
I trim the edges at the bark and whitewood (crust of the pie shaped stave) to square up the staves some. This effort helps keep the stave secure in the vise.
I finally clamp the stave in the vise, bark up and start ripping off the whitewood edge with a drawknife.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood25.jpg)
This effort above will also show you where the whitewood and heartwood meet. And, a more squared surface provides the vise something to hold on to while you work the stave.
Here you can see a squared off edge as it transitions from the bottom up,,, from bark to whitewood and then on to the heartwood. Note the darker oxidized heartwood on top. When my wood has aged to this color, I feel it is ready to reduce to a rough bow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood6.jpg)
Squared off and clamped in the vise; we are ready to get serious with the drawknife!
To do this work of removing wood with a DK (drawknife), I always wear fingerless gloves or weight lifters gloves are another choice of mine. Gloves prevent blisters and blisters will slow you down. Or, stop your wood removal altogether!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood7.jpg)
I always work from the middle or handle area out to the ends or tips. Some would rather start at the tips and work towards the handle. Your choice really.
I dont intend to chase a ring at this stage,,, just getting down to the heartwood without mangling it up. I'll chase a single growth ring for the backing after I get down to the heartwood.
With the stave clamped in the middle, start down one side or the other side with the drawknife bevel side up, taking off the squared edges of the stave. Avoid digging in too deep with the DK, just go in deep enough to take off the whitewood and not dig into the heartwood too much if it can be avoided.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood16.jpg)
And then do the otherside of the stave the same way,,, long strokes; this is the easy part! Take wood off at an angle that does not go into the heartwood. Remember we are just taking off the edge of the bark and whitewood now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood17.jpg)
Then take the DK down the middle of the stave. You can go hard and fast here. Removing 1/2 or most of the whitewood at this point is benificial later. You'll see it is tough and that getting into the heartwood is impossible if you're slicing more than tearing the wood. Slicing is key when using a drawknife. With a little experience one will find a good angle for the DK blade and the amount of wood one is trying and remove that makes using the drawknife a real pleasure. Where, one is taking off controled slices rather than tearing wood off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood18.jpg)
Once I've removed the bark and some levels of whitewood, I'll go back to the middle of the stave and find the heartwood. I dig in withthe drawknife there until I see that addictive yellerwood that is heartwood! This picture shows you what the bow wood or heartwood looks like & when to stop and not go any deeper onto this yellow heartwood if at all possible.
If your chosen ring for the backing is deep within the stave then compromising a ring or two on the back now will not be a problem later. You'll have to go below any rings you've compromised so the damage will be removed when chasing the chosen ring later on in the process.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood9.jpg)
Using the drawknife and starting from the yellow wood (middle) out to the end of the stave (the tips), I remove the rest of the whitewood with the DK (Drawkinfe). You can feel a sensation in the drawknife,,, when the wood is seperating at the heartwood growth ring and where the whitewood ends. The DK just kinda feels like scraping or chattering rather than cutting. When your blade angle is correct, you'll feel it and it comes off almost too easy. I said almost!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood10.jpg)
You can see in this picture where one should be in depth and in relation to the ring you want for your backing.
Whitewood (top left).
The chosen ring is one ring below where I am now. Leaving one extra ring on top of the chosen ring now, may be benificial in the future!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood11.jpg)
The ring on top of this stave (pic below) is not a chased ring. I still have some rings of whitewood left on the heartwood in some places.
Once the bark and whitewood are removed, a end veiw of the stave below allows you to see that the stave is almost back to pie shaped and our chosen ring is probably the second ring from the top.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood13.jpg)
Flipping the stave over,,, bellyside up, I use the drawknife to remove heartwood that splintered when I split this log. This not only helps reduce the size of the stave somewhat, it lets you see the usable wood that is left intact for a bow & allows for better gripping when being rotated and worked in the vise.
Here is one of the holes shown on the belly of a stave earlier.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood15.jpg)
I'll be watching Joe, thanks.. Roy
Some tips on knots;
When I take off whitewood and come to a knot with the drawknife, I stop short of it and lift the knife to oneside. Usually the wood comes off around the knot. Just dont go cutting into a knot when you see yellerwood (heartwood) now and especially not later when chasing a ring!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood20.jpg)
Once it pops loose, grab it and flip it over the knot. It should come off fairly clean.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood21.jpg)
Just keep doing that until its yeller all around the knot. Sometimes turning the stave around and working the knot back the opposite direction helps in removing whitewood neatly around a knot such as this one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood23.jpg)
With the stave being 73" and this knot in the last 6" toward the end or tips,,, it may be cut completely off the stave when we go to lay out the bow on the back of the stave but I am still unsure as to where I want to lay out the bow for this stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood22.jpg)
When it looks like this I am ready to start chaising a ring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood14.jpg)
I did this stave next and boy it has some character to it!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood19.jpg)
The third stave was a bit bent out of shape in profile.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood24.jpg)
And here is the four staves together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood28.jpg)
Before skinning off the bark and whitewood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood.jpg)
After skinning and awaiting to reduce & chase rings for the bow backings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood27.jpg)
This ought to be good!
Or really embarrassing!
man,i want you to teach me to make a bow.i will shuck bark for days for a lesson.i want to make my own bow real bad.i have the fever,steve
Makes a man feel good to work a whole tree
Happiness is a giant pile of osage shavings!
i need to pick me up some of that south point hedge. wonder how far north it grows...
i love that character stick , thing looks wicked.
keep it up , pics are awesome.
-hov
That's some nice work right there! Jawge
That is just like I do it Joe. All muscel at first then finesse em in.
I bet Kelly wishes you posted this 2 weeks ago! d;^) Nice build along, Joe. Lots of good info here. Too bad that open knot wasn't incorperated in the limb better! Oh well, nice stuff anyway.
It will be cool to see how the 4 sides of a log compared to each other as bows. Do you have any predictions from what you see now?
Thanks gang!
Steve, come on down for a lesson.
Pat, not till I chase a ring, then I can predict what they may be a little easier.
Wow Looks good
Looking good! The only thing we're NOT seeing is the pile of shavings on the floor! LOL
:bigsmyl:
This would have be really nice 2 weeks ago. Again nice work Joe,
Kelly
I burn may shavings as I go... Its been a tradition for me since I began. Used to pile them up at first but, being a smoker I was always concerned about burning down my shed. Besides, I hate stepping all over them to get around the stave.
Better here
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/Thirdtryosageshaping2.jpg)
Than here
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/sweat.jpg)
joe, we use them to heat the shop, and only sweep every now and then. I personally love the crunching of shavings under my feet, but you really need to keep an eye on tools.
Every time I clean up shavings in my shop I find that tool I'd been looking for. Like having money in the bank! d;^)
I used to have two amber flexible rulers for layout... Guess where they are! Joe may be on to something here.
Joe,
You forgot the Marshmallow, chocolate and gram crackers!
Kelly
if i wasnt using the in-laws garage as my temporary shop , you better believe it would look like a sawmill in there. i used to work at a lumber yard and they were always griefing me about the mess i left behind. i always told them whats the use of having all that sawdust around if youre not going to use it...
i see a few shaving in that fire barrow that would haave made lovely tip accents. thanks...
lol :thumbsup:
-hov
When tillering, I save the fine shavings in coffee cans. I take them camping and it makes great tender for starting fires. Great for early cold mornings!
Yep, that's exactly what I do at first too. Rip and tear till you see yella wood, then stop...take a break.....and come back later when you are ready to take it easy. I almost get in a frenzy when removing bark and sapwood and my adrenaline really gets pumping, it's like a fast paced intense cardio workout.
I use my shavings for kindlin to start a fire in my wood stove, especially now since it's middle of January. I've got an entire trash can full of shavings and left overs so I started dumping mine in our trash burning barrel. Then they get burnt when it's time to burn the trash.
I was hoping you would do a bow build at some point Joe, I can't wait for more. I'll be watching this thread all the way through.
Are you gonna skin one of them when your done?
That really gnarly one would make a great bow for some skins, but it's gonna be a bugger and fight you all the way to the bitter end!
Be sure and eat your Wheaties before tackling that one! :thumbsup:
great thread! thanks for sharing
I am enjoying this, good to see the work.
DAY TWO:
On and off the job all afternoon!
The staves are ready to chase a ring on but first I need to deal with the checks in the wood at the end of the staves. These checks were caused by drying. The ends were sealed with shellac when they were cut but the ends still checked on the back of the staves but, not on the very ends???
This checking under the bark is another good reason to have staves 70" or more. You will still have length you can remove on each end and end up with a stave long enough for a bow.
Here you can see the checks that were not visible until the bark was removed. The checks or drying damage on one of the staves is around 6" long and needs removed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Checksendofstave1.jpg)
I mark the stave with a pencil on the ends where the damage ends (away from the tip) and the good wood begins. Then measure from the 1st mark to the other end of the stave where the damage begins agian. At that time you'll know how long of a stave you have and decide how long to make each stave. Then I use a handsaw to cut the ends off at the pencil marks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Reducinglengthofstave.jpg)
Here they are, all 4 staves cut to length and the checks removed. They are as follows 68", 67", 66" & 64" long.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Reducinglengthofstave2.jpg)
Now that the staves have had their length reduced, it's time to chase the rings for each bows backing.
At first to chase a ring, I will stand a stave upright on the floor and clamp the top of the stave into the vise. Starting at the end or top of the stave, I'll use the drawknife with the beveled side down to remove a ring or two rings depending,,, to get down to my chosen ring. Once on top of the chosen ring, I chase that ring down each side of the stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing1.jpg)
Here I have outlined with a pencil the upper ring I am removing. I remove each side then go down the middle. Trying to only go 6" or 10" at a time.
A good light or the right light angle is criticle for seeing the rings during this process. I find that the natural sunlight is best for this step. Being inside, I have a movable light source so I can move the light for the best veiw of the rings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing.jpg)
Once I have gone 12" to 18", I'll clamp the stave in the vise horizontaly to finish chasing the ring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing3.jpg)
Once you've cleared the ring you want to chase, move the stave further up and into the vise. This keeps your work close to the vise and the light. The further away you work area is from the vise allows the wood stave to bounce and you'll have less control using the drawknife.
Continue using the drawknife beveled side down to chase the ring. Beveled side down allows for more control. Less wood is apt to be removed at any one pull on the DK preventing the DK from digging in and penetrating the chosen ring. Simply find the angle of the blade that when pulled on stedily, provides a lifting, sort of chattering of the wood as the upper ring pops loose from the ring you're chasing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing5.jpg)
joe, im not that skilled with a draw knife. i got to chasin a ring on bernies bow, got to the last layer of sapwood and went right to the scraper. you have a great thread goin. give me a call when ya get a chance , ruddy.
Just keep repeating the process of going down each side and then the middle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing7.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing8.jpg)
Here I have come across a verticle crack in the backing or chosen ring. I use a pencil to mark the crack so I dont miss it later when laying out the bow or reducing the width of the stave. I don't want this crack ending up at the edge of the bow limb!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing9.jpg)
You can see to the right of my pencil mark; I will still have a couple good inches left to work with even if I completly remove the crack by reducing the width of left side of the stave to the crack.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing10.jpg)
The mark on this crack will also remind me not to clamp the stave down in the vise too hard in that area. Clamping it down hard in the vise in that area could break and split the stave even more.
At the very least the mark will remind me to fill the crack with some super glue!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing11.jpg)
Continue chasing the ring down the stave until you've gone clear to the other end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing12.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing14.jpg)
Here at the end of the stave you can see what is left of the ring on top that I am removing. You can also see the second ring needing to be removed and in the circle drawn on the end of the stave is where the tip of my bow will probably end up being.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing15.jpg)
Great thread, Joe. I learn something from each of your builds. Much appreciated.
Stan
Now the backing ring has been chased end to end and you can clearly see the backing and rings at the end of the stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/ringchasing16.jpg)
I only had to re-chase a ring on one of the four staves. I had compromised the back ring and had to go one ring deeper. It took most of the afternoon to chase all four staves due to the constant interuptions from others. It should only take an hour or so to chase each stave.
Here is a motly looking crew of staves ready to have the width and depth reduced.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Staveswithringschasedandcuttolength.jpg)
Man, you work fast! I think you've done this a couple of times.
Great thread, I'm gonna watch this one all the way through. :thumbsup:
Did he really say an hour to chase a ring? It took you less time to chase four plus one twice than it took me to chase one. I am just working really slow so you can catch up, yeah that is it, I am letting you catch up.
I hope I am an Osage whisperer someday. SEMO_HUNTER I think you and your spoke shave could give him a run for his money.
Joe thanks for sharing with the rest of us
God bless and Happy building,
Kelly
Wow Great Job. Thanks for the build along. I am going to start my first selfbow from a stave this spring. I have a nice osage stave that has been drying for 2 years.
QuoteOriginally posted by KellyG:
Did he really say an hour to chase a ring? It took you less time to chase four plus one twice than it took me to chase one. I am just working really slow so you can catch up, yeah that is it, I am letting you catch up.
I hope I am an Osage whisperer someday. SEMO_HUNTER I think you and your spoke shave could give him a run for his money.
Joe thanks for sharing with the rest of us
God bless and Happy building,
Kelly
Nope, he's faster. It still takes me several hours to chase a ring and that's if it's on a good stave. A crooked one may take me an entire day! :knothead:
But I take my time so I don't end up chasing it twice, that has alot to do with it.
Joe is just down right good! :thumbsup:
I know this must be a bit boring to some members but, guys like Steve may benifit from some of it this spring. Steve, sounds like your stave is ready to work. Lots of good info on others threads too so be sure to do alot of reading and looking before you begin yours.
Yes, I said 1 hour to chase the ring on a decent stave. Even less if the stave is thin in width! If there is ever a chasing contest at a bow meet, I will enter and givem a run for there money.
I too used to be way too cautious but experience has shown this process to be easier than one thinks. Putting too much thought into some parts of preparing a stave is not necassary. Alot of books and articles on the subject make it seem scary to the beginner; when it is not really all that hard. Remember, they were doing this with stone tools thousands of years before we started up!
Tony Chinn is driving down here this morning from KY to help some and learn some. Maybe I'll have some pics of our progress later this evening? I sure could have used him last week when I stripped the staves!
Anyway's thanks for the comments and support. Check back in later! 43 pictures uplaoded and posted to this thread already. I forgot how much time this stuff takes.
Osage whisperer :laughing:
Osage whisperer :pray: :pray:
SEMO,
heck if I could get to a ring that fast and have to rechase one in four it still would be fater than now. LOL
Joe aka Osage whisperer,
this is not boring at all. I am on my fist and learning as I go. Seeing how others do is just what I and other need.
Thanks,
Kelly
I think something worth mentioning is when you are chasing a ring on osage and you get down to that pourous early growth, you can actually feel it in the draw knife when you use it like Joe demonstrates.
Once you get a good feel for it you can really shuck a stave pretty quick. Joe hit the nail on the head when he said it's not as hard as alot of literature makes it sound. You can't be afraid of it and you just got to want it. LOL
Stiks
I'll admit that I'm fairly quick at getting down throught the bark, sapwood, and just above the ring I want, but I slow way down when I get close. My spoke shave has made a world of difference in the speed at which I can prep a stave. I've really grown to love that little tool, and I wish I would have had it 6 months ago.
Joe is still the "Osage Whisperer" though, I think you've earned that title. Thanks to Kelly, I beleive it's gonna stick. :thumbsup: :notworthy:
This is good to see how it's done. Please keep it coming!
I ain't gonna lie, "Osage Whisperer" has a nice ring to it. :bigsmyl:
Looking good, keep it coming.
These posts are never boring even for an old guy like me. I learn something every time I read one. Keep them coming.
I too an pretty quick removing the bark and sapwood(or at least used to be. the last one kicked my butt!) because I through caution to the wind(not suggested) and repair the damage later. Once I get near my back ring I take my time to get as clean a ring as possible. After all, that back ring is the life of the bow.
I think a lot of what scares newbies is being unfamiliar with the tools and the medium. Once we get comfortable with these things our work speeds up without jeopardising the project.
i love your threads joe. you have a way with explaining it without sounding condescending or silly. great job on this.
and yes , osage whisperer has a much nicer ring to it that "hedgeapple hummer"
-hov
This is a great build-a-long.
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Yep Joe you might as well see if they can change your ID name here from Osage tree to Osage whisperer. lol
i'm learning alot! i have plans to bulid a bow like this in may with a friend from montana's guidance. this is great prep reading to get an idea of what i'll be doing.
couple questions:
1. after you cut an osage tree down, how long do you usually have to let it dry before making a bow?
2. when you "chase a ring", if you accidently knick thru it in a spot, do you have to stop & start over chasing to the next ring?
Bradley, PM sent!
Me too PatB.....it doesn't bore me in the least!
I actually chased 2 staves today, removed sapwood from another and got a bend in the handle bow roughed in. I just got done steaming it in the middle to draw out the middle to line the tips up. Gonna let it sit overnight and check it in the morning. If all goes well I will have it on the string tomorrow, maybe tillered by dark?
Thanks for taking the time to do this Joe....uh hem I mean.....
Mr. Osage Whisperer. :coffee:
Thank you for the how to lessons OsageTree, Ken
PM recieved.... thank you!
can't wait to see more :coffee:
I can't wait to see the finished bow! I hope to build a bow some time soon. thanks, for taking the time to show us how you do it.
Whisperin' Joe, The Osage Whisperer, huh? :D (I like it!) As indicated, another great and informative thread for all of us. I can't imagine any one who has any interest at all in the subject, finding any thread boring. I know I never have. Nobody ever knows (no matter how many times a thing is said/explained) when and by who or just how a thing will be said that just hits resonance in our own certain headbone, and all of the sudden we say "Ah-ha! so that's what all those others were talking about." I love it when that happens. Keep up the good work Joe (and everyone else too). Even beginners can be "instructors" to others from time to time, including themselves - :thumbsup:
Ol' osage whisperer....while I was chasing a ring this weekend with my DK, it was tearing out terrible gouges, I flipped the stave around and worked it from the other direction and everything went well. Is this typical or coincidental?
I can remember back before we had a separate forum for The Bowyer's Bench here, I had never seen anything about bow building. Then I started reading the occasional build-a-long or other thread on the subject in Pow Wow and found them intrigueing to me. I kept saying that, if I had got interested "younger", I would have loved to try it but it was a little late now (then). Finally a local (now) friend of mine who only reads here, got in touch with me and wouldn't take that as an answer. He forced me under his wing (even bought me a bow blank and a Osage stave). He got me in his shop and taught me how to make two bows and helped me on a few others (over the phone, etc.). I did build-a-longs, on three different sites, so that other folks could/would keep me out of trouble - LOL. Finally, (my point in all this is), it was so gratifying to have so many folks who e-mailed, PM'd, or entered posts saying how much the threads helped them too, it was just unbelievable. It is perhaps one of the most enjoyable periods of my (very enjoyable) life. I stopped for a while (various reasons) but I do intend to build some more bows, and all of you guys now are helping to jog my faulty memory - daily. Sometimes you do it by answering questions and sometimes you do it by asking them - never stop. I'd like to take this chance to sneak in here, in Joe's fine thread, to say, "Thank you so very much, one and all."
QuoteOriginally posted by Balding Kansan:
Ol' osage whisperer....while I was chasing a ring this weekend with my DK, it was tearing out terrible gouges, I flipped the stave around and worked it from the other direction and everything went well. Is this typical or coincidental?
Yes it is. If your draw knife ever starts to go deeper than you intended......just stop.
If you keep going you could tear out a really deep chunk or strip of wood that will take the precious rings with it including some you intended to keep.
You did right by turning around and working it from the other direction. I keep my knife really sharp and that helps me target only the intended wood that I want to take off. I think a dull knife does more tearing and breaking rather than cutting like it should.
Hope Joe doesn't mind me stepping in with an answer on this question?
But I have experienced it first hand and wanted to offer my 2 cents on it.
Joe what have you been up to?
Bernie, this is a great site/thread. I have always been interested in traditional archery but didn't realize I could make my own stuff. Everything was so expensive if you bought custom equipment. Add in that I'm lefthanded and I didn't have much of a chance down here. (Now I know there once was a guy in Gurdon, AR that was well known for making a bow called the "Arkansas Stick".) So much wasted time. I grew up in the sticks, knew most of the trees around here, too. Just didn't know how/where to get started.
This site has taken care of that. I share this site with as many people as I can.
So keep it comin', Joe. My science students loved your thread from a few years back in which you made all of your tackle to take a buck. That was a masterpiece.
Thanks,
Stan :clapper:
Sorry Gang,,, just been busy.... :scared:
I chase from either end and if one end doesn't work for me, I may give the other end a try. I was thinking about what you described happening to me,,, it was on greener staves rather than a well seasoned one? Not real sure if it is not just coincidence? :dunno:
This subject would make a good poll thread here on the "Bowyers Bench"! I'd be very intersted in the results!
Everyone else,,,, wonderful support here, THANK YOU!
Yes sir...well seasoned and a fairly sharp knife. A guy couldn't shave with it but good enough i'd say. The stave is somewhat snakey if that had anything to do with it.
Looking good, Osage Tree. I'm not bored. I always like watching other people build'em. :) Jawge
Joe is a great teacher, I think I slow him down alittle asking all the questions but he is good answering them and others to. Thanks alot Joe see ya Sat
Tony
Not bored but very thankful! My first bow attempt from American Beech didn't go very well and now I have a better idea why; I did it ALL wrong. Now on my second bow attempt (from oak board) which I have learned much from leaves me eager to get some wood and try again; if only I wasn't surrounded by pine. ; )
Certainly not boring...love it so far. Looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks
Well, so sorry it has been 4 or 5 months since I worked on any of these 4 staves. Life, work, surgery, camping, etc. You know there are other things a man must do besides play in the shop... And, I did give fair warning on the timeline here!
I've taken the 64" stave or stave #1 and marked the center with a pencil across the back of the stave at 32".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1.jpg)
In this picture you can see the check or crack in the backing of this stave that I found earlier and marked it with pencil so I wouldn't miss it when laying out the bow. next I took my little measure scribe and a pincil and marked a line the length of the stave. Everything left of the line needs to come off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber11.jpg)
Here's a shot of the scribe tool I use. It has a surface platform that rides along the edge of the stave and a sharp scribe that scores a line that follows the egde of the stave perfectly. I then use a pencil to mark the line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber12.jpg)
Turning the stave on its side, I use the drawknife bevel side down to remove everything down to the line. Bevel side down allows more control and makes sure you dont go below the line drawn. You can see where I marked the check just below the blade of the knife in this picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber13.jpg)
Always starting at the handle and work out to the tips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber14.jpg)
Flip the stave over and remove down to the line on the other limb. Again, working from the handle out to the tips with the bevel side of the blade down.
You can remove allot of wood this way ina short period of time. From the begining I have followed the verticle grain by using the drawknife so the line drawn to follow the edge in an attempt to remove the check (crack) also follows the grain of the wood. With the bevel side of the blade down it makes it much harder to cut through the vertical grain so it is fairly easy to get close to the line usng only the drawknife.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber16.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber17.jpg)
Here is the stave taken down to the line. Note the pie shaped end of the stave. As I removed wood to the line, I tried to maintain the pie shape of the stave as it was when it was originally split in to quarters. There is a reason for this trying to maintain the pie shape of the stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber18.jpg)
Great thread! Looking forward to the rest.
Before I explain why I like to have the stave in a pie shape,,, I need to lay out the bow on the backing ring.
There are many methods to laying out a bow but here are the basics I use.
Draw a line the length of the stave in the center end to end and while following the vertical grain. Then make hash marks 2" above and below the center line marked at 32". That is the handle. now, above and below the handle two more hash marks at 1.5" are the fades.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber19.jpg)
Here I've drawn on the fade profile. 1" at the handle and 1.5" at the limb.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber110.jpg)
The width of the fades and limbs are 1.5" wide out to mid limb, then it tappers to 3/8" at the tips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber112.jpg)
The center of the handle is left almost as wide as the stave until later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber114.jpg)
The lay out completed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber113.jpg)
Using the drawknife again, I remove wood from the sides of the limbs down to the lay out lines. Notice again that i am maintaining that pie shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber116.jpg)
In this picture, I have turned the stave over in the vise to work or remove wood from the other side of the limb. Again keeping the pie shape to that side as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber117.jpg)
Closer to the lay out lines you can see here the check (crack) that I am trying to rid the stave of. You can see here how close I got to the line with the drawknife and where I made dots right beside the check. The dots will be along the layout line and will removed the check as I follow along the layout line bevel side down!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber111.jpg)
Hey Joe
Hopefully the weekend after fater's day I can git up that way, haven't forgot about the leather punch either 6.5
later pal
Sounds good Tony, hope you have nice Fathers Day!!
The check is gone,,, it lifted off just at the layout line for the limb. The check only went down through the backing the depth of one ring and would have been fine left in. There was just no sure way to tell that without going down another ring. Since I wanted this ring to be the back, I chose to remove it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber118.jpg)
Here the picture shows the drawknife removing wood to the layout lines. You'll see the bevel side of the blade is down and the knife is at the correct angle to remove wood without going past the pencil marks. If the blade starts going too deep simply pull the end of the handles upwards. The leverage from the bevel on the blade bring it back up and oput from the layout lines.
The key is go slowly removing 1/4" strips instead of trying to take off 1/2' at a time.
Also, when reducing staves with a drawknife, split up the width of the surface you are working on in to sections. Take off and edge, then the ridge or new edge you just created. Dont try to work wood off with a width of 2 or 3 inches, just take off an inch or so at a time. Note how in the picture I am working the sharp edge toward the layout line, that will leave another edge to work next as I work the DK around and towards the point of the pie shape. The length of strip you remove can be very long. I average over 20" long strips until I get close to the layout lines. Then my depth of cut and length of cut (strip) get smaller because smaller and less is more accurate while removing wood with a DK.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber119.jpg)
Here are two pics of a black hole in the staves. One pic from just after splitting and the other pic is what was left ater removing wood down to the layout lines...
The wood at the black hole popped right off with the woods natural vertical grain as the drawknife passed along my layout line. This leaves a little dip or character in the edge of the bows limb.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowsRemovingBarkWhitewood4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber120.jpg)
Here is another pic of the black hole on the limb. (The piont of the pie shape or belly of the limb is facing you in the pic).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber121.jpg)
And, here is the stave down to the layout lines of each limb.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber122.jpg)
Now that we are down to the limb profile lines on to removing some belly wood and shaping the fades. Up to this point everything has been done with the drawknife. Now on to the next items in the hand tool arsenal. The rasp, the file and the scraper...
When it comes to the rasps; one thing to keep in mnd is that they only remove wood in the forward direction or when pushing the rasp. Trying to remove wood in both directions (pulling & pushing) only wastes energy and helps dull the rasp over time.
With the stave clamped in the vise belly side up (point of pie shape up) use the draw knife bevel side down, to remove the peak or point of the pie shape. Keep in mind that you want the rough limb thickness of 5/8" to 3/4" for a final limb thickness. Work with the DK from the handle out, down into the fade and out to the limb tips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber123.jpg)
The next series of pics shows what to look for when removing belly wood at this point. Look at the growth rings and insure in your wood removal that the rings stair step out to the limb tips to maintain some level of tappering of the limb from fade to tip.
Keep in mind the backing when removing belly wood. you need to remain the same thicknes. If the limb twists,,, so must your work in wood removal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber125.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber126.jpg)
To help shape the fade at a smoother and steeper angle I'll use a flat rasp or a half round rasp. You can see I also mark the fade lines around the belly for keeping my tool work in check.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber127.jpg)
Note that in this picture the drawknife was used as a scraper on the right side of the fade to let me see the step of the growth rings. Once you have used the rasp the visibility of the growth rings are non-existant, visualy. The left side of the fade was rasped and then filed. Scraping with the DK shows the growth rings to me again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber131.jpg)
Once I see the rings again, I re-mark the fade lines to see that all steps are within the fade area. "H" is for handle & "F" is for fade.
This is a good place for the fade rings to be in for here in a bit we will begin to start floor tillering or heat bending.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber132-1.jpg)
This is how I use the rasp, file & scraper in sequence to provide an almost finished result to my work.
In front of the rasp you'll see its tool marks by looking for the dull 3" section in front of the half round rasp in the pic. This is how I remove wood to rough shape the bow, fades, round over limbs and rid the stave of sharp edges.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B1.jpg)
On the other side of the half round tool is the file. Rasp,,,, then file. Same pic with file tool marks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B2.jpg)
Now,,, unlike the rasps, the file and scrapers I do work in both directions. Here is the same pic after working the scraper. It provides an almost finished look to the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B3.jpg)
Another example pic of the tool marks
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb.jpg)
Rough tip work with rasp
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb1.jpg)
Tip work with file
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb2.jpg)
Tip work with scrapper
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb3.jpg)
Here's what I have after shaping with the rasps and finishing with the files and scrapers. We are about ready to floor tiller or heat bend to a better profile. As you can see we have plenty of twist and bend in stave #1.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1B7.jpg)
The only thing left is to make sure both limbs are close to the same thickness at the fades and that each limb tappers or the rings stair step out to the tips. I use a simple tool like this to measure thickness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb4.jpg)
My Grandson liked it when he stopped by to see POP POP's!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/Shapingstavenumber1B9.jpg)
That last pic of the little one is one for the wall...what a cool shot! Thanks for taking the time to put this together, love the steps and process as done with hand tools.
Regards~
Glad to see you are able to get back to some bow work, Joe. How's the hand?
Great build along!!!
Thanks Lee & Pat.
Well by the looks of the twist and dips I am going to have to throw in a power tool. My heat gun.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Shapingstavenumber1bb5.jpg)
Here is the stave on my caul.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave14.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave13.jpg)
First I heat at one fade and get it clamped down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave15.jpg)
Then the other fade.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave16.jpg)
Then heat and bend each limb one by one from the fade out to the tips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave17.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave18.jpg)
Then the other limb and let it sit and cool for the day.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Heatbendingstave19.jpg)
looks good Joe, wish I knew about the pie shape before I started mine. Live and learn, I will try to remember it for the next one.
good build along,
Kelly
Joe, I think they should call you "osage screamer" because of fast you tear through a stave. Great work. Love each post you offer us.
Stan
Thanks red,,, but if I change my handle name it would be "Yellow Boogers". :cool:
Cool build along. Thanks
Looks like your getting along fine there "Yellow Boogers". :laughing:
great build along. i have a question.
is it necisary for a stave to be sealed on ends and set out for 2 years to dry?
Many variables here on that question. Here's my two cents;
No need to seal ends if you don't plan to use the ends of the stave. If your stave is 80" and your bow is going to be 62" you can probably live without sealing the ends but, you'll have to cut off the ends that checked because they will check if not sealed!
2 years is a good start, 10 years is better if the wood is kept in a dry cool & dark place.
I have worked green wood (osage)on the advice of an old bowyer. I worked several bows out of a green osage with good results. The thing to do with green wood is to cut your tree and rough out your bow in the same day, seal it (the whole thing)with boiled linseed oil and let it stay indoors for 6 months. Then each time you remove wood to shape it or tiller it further, you must re-apply linseed oil to prevent checking each time wood is removed. Once built, you must continually treat the bow with linseed oil to keep it from checking in the future. I found that the green wood treated with linseed oil can not be manipulated with dry heat but can be with a steam bath without ill results. The set in limbs was very minimal with cautious tillering. The old guy still does use green wood but, I do not as I got far enough behind in my wood stock that I have some waiting for several years know.
Another tactic is rough out a beefy bow from wood that has been cut for 6 months, seal the back and tips upsbout 10" and let it dry out inside for another 6 months before final shaping and tillering.
Now, on to checking the tiller on the floor. This is how I do it. Not really getting much bend but trying to eliminate the flat spots and getting what is bending in a even curve. Pushing down on the handle with the tip on the floor allow the limb to bend somewhat. At this point and only by my experience can I tell if the bow is way too heavey or light. This one seems a bit heavey.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD6.jpg)
Then on to the tiller tree & long string just to get a better idea of where to begin removing wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD5.jpg)
The bow wanted to flip over in the tree when the long string was pulled a bit. This is due to the tips being off center. If the string does not travel down the center of the limbs the bow will want to twist when the string is pulled.
Even though straightened on the caul, not all of the problem was corrected as you can see by the slight bend in the stave to the right in the first picture below.
A little heat from the heat gun allow me to bend it out right in the vise as you can see in the second picture below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD7.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD8.jpg)
As a result a straighter stave that wont twist or flip over in the tiller tree.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD9.jpg)
Be sure after using dry heat that you don't try bending the stave until the moistier evens back out. I wait till the next day.
With a round file I cut in some shallow string nocks on each limb tip. Allowing me to see how the short string is going to do. I move on to a shorter string but not the short length it would be at normal brace. Just long enogh to raise the string above the handle 3 inches or so.. By adjusting the position of the timber hitch on the short string, I can find this low brace in the stave.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/SwapbowD10.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE.jpg)
There are two ways I use to tiller. The scraper and the drawknife. You can see in the first bic the position the DK is in when I use it as a scrapper to tiller the high spots. Teh second pic is my scraper that I use to be a little more carefull.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE5-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE1.jpg)
Around knots and imperfections in the wood the scraper may dig in and cause a washboard effect or an un-even surface on the belly wood, not allowing the scraper to take off even strokes of wood which you need to get a decent tiller. You can see in this in the pic below. It is at the end of the growth ring near the tip. though this portin of the wood wont be a working portion of the limb, I'll use this spot to show how I smooth a dig-in over so that the scraper runs over it smoothly. This is common in the fade area and again, around knots and other imperfections in the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE2.jpg)
Simply smooth it over with a flat file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE3.jpg)
Then run the scraper over it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE4.jpg)
Really good stuff OsageTree!
There is still not a good string travel on the stave and that is why I left the handle and tips wider than they need to be.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE7-2.jpg)
In this pic the arrow drawn on the limb shows which direction the string needs to move to get it closer to center. I use the rasp, file and scraper to re-shape the limb tips. Removing the wood from one side will allow the string to move closer to center when new nocks are made.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE12-2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE13-2.jpg)
Do the same to the other tip, and I also remove wood from the wide handle on the appropriate side to assist in aligning the string better..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE14-2.jpg)
And the result is a much more pleasing string line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE10-2.jpg)
A few more sessions on the tiller tree.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE20-1.jpg)
Some exercizing of limbs, more tillering and raise the brace to about 5 inches.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE19-1.jpg)
And now we're getting some where,,, drawn to about 20 or 21 inches at about 50 lbs and around 8 to 10 inches of limb tip movement. Still neads a little tweaking though. Oh well, getting closer anyways!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE21-1.jpg)
Boy Joe, she's coming along nicely. Great instructions and explanations with your build along too.
Ah ha I am glad I have not touched my tips or handles, knew if I worked slow enough you would catch me. My evil plan has worked. Muahahaha,
Nice Joe, I will be looking this over a few times I bet.
Curious about the "sling" on your tiller tree. I have a 2X4 that I've padded and have to clamp the bow into. Don't like it. The clamp gets in the way of the tillering string. Is yours a piece of scrap metal that you've formed?
Snag,,, it is two blocks of wood and a leather strap that I lay the handle on top of. This provides a soft platform about the size of my grip on a bow. I'll try and get a close up posted this evening.
Thanks Osagetree. I was thinking of some sort of sling too. That way the bow wouldn't twist as you draw the string down and it would be soft on the wood.
awesome, very nice build along thanks for sharing your knowledge
Snag,
Not sure about a sling but here is my set up.
One block of approx. 4" long x 1 1/2" deep walnut mounted to the wall with 2 nails & one peice of walnut mounted to the first with 1 nail allowing it to swivel around on the other. A leather piece tacked to the wall with a couple roofing nails.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/tillertree.jpg)
When I place a bow stave on for the first time, I check for twisting with the swivel block up. This block keeps the bow in the tree and let's you see any twist with out it flipping over in the tree.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/tillertree1.jpg)
I will get any severe twisting out before trying to tiller one to finished. Once the twist is out, I can tiller it further with the swivel block down and without clamping it in with something. The leather lets you see how the limbs react on this fulcrum that is soon to be your bow hand. You dont want a bow that twists around in your hand when you draw it back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/tillertree2.jpg)
I like it! Thanks. Headed to the shop....David
At this point & with the bow still a bit heavy, I shape the tips as best I can using the flat and round files.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE16-2.jpg)
Back into the vise, I work the backing once again with a small scraper to provide a better finish and remove all the latewood I left behind when I 1st chased this ring.
This scraper is a industrial floor scraper about 4 or 5" long. I can bend it slightly in the middle to make its action a bit more rounded. This bending of the scraper helps it get into the dips of the backing ring a bit better than just the straight scraper blade would. I also go over the entire bow with this scraper to remove some of the tool marks I've made while shaping and tillering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE15-2.jpg)
Taking sand paper over the entire bow with a 80 and then a 100 grit to smooth it all out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/swapbowsE18-2.jpg)
Good stuff. I like the rye helper/relaxer!
great thread osagetree really god stuff. i noticed the talleys on your draw knife handle is that the number of staves its wroked? keep the info coming. :clapper:
Yes karrow, I started keeping tally on it sometime back. There are 35 or 40 on the other side of the handles and it has never been sharpened. Though my other larger DK is much more sharp!
Yes Jim, I suppose one must be able to concentrate while in the shop.
After a bit more tillering, it's back on the tree once again.
The poundage is over 5lbs from where I want it to be. I like a heavy draw hunting bow but not that heavy,,, 65lbs at 27"!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/finishing2.jpg)
I use a 3M rubber block sander & 80grit paper to sand the belly a bit from the fades out to about mid limb to reduce the draw weight a little.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/finishing1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/finishing.jpg)
A little more excersize and Check the weight again! Okay,,, let's shoot this beast!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/shooting1stone.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/shooting1stone1.jpg)
You make it look so easy Joe can't wait for the nest installment.
Good looking bow pal. Can't wait to start on mine with the buff tips and rest.
Take care buddy
Tony
Great Work Joe! You have the patience of a science teacher, excellent explanation skills and easy to follow along. I enjoyed the build along very much. Is it done or is there more on the way?
Chris here's #1 after a little dress up.
I'll put a string and some silencers on it tomorrow,,, maybe?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Number1Finished.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Number1Finished1.jpg)
She looks sweet, Joe!!!
stunning
Yep Kelly your right about that.
Great lookin' bow, Joe.
I didn't see this thread when you did the string alignment. I want to know if I've got this right. I haven't made many selfbows yet.
The string is too much to the left in the picture, so if you remove wood from the left side of the tip on one end you would flip it around and remove wood from the right side of the other end?
In other words remove wood from the side of the tips where the string is closest?
Does that make sense?
b.glass, I beleive I removed wood from the same side on both tips. And, I think I also used a little heat to better line up the string and tips
Don't forget I also thinned the wide handle to help line up the string.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Anumberonereadytoship16.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Anumberonereadytoship15.jpg)
Another sweet bow Joe :thumbsup: Nice work as always.
Tracy
Okay gang, here's an untimely update.
Two of the staves were sacrificed to make one take down. It was my last years trade bow and I was pressed for time so I din't take pics. The bow was shipped to South Africa and the pics I have are posted below.
I needed two billets for the take down and two of the staves ends matched great so they got their ends cut for billets for this bow.
I still have one of the four staves left and hope to complete this thread sometime in the future.
So far the sore is 3staves - 2 bows.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Sleeve5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/Sleeve2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/end6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/end8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/DSC_1095.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/SWAP%20BOWs/DSC_1109.jpg)
i always loved your work osagetree. this is also very nice.
Grasshopper enjoy watching Master work :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :goldtooth:
Hard to believe it has been 4 years!
I dont have much time to donate to build-alongs but I still tinker with the yeller wood from time to time.
Grandkids, work and other obligations have taken my time.
I sure miss sharing with you Guy's and Gals!
Even if you can't share you can still join us, Joe. Is it time to get the grand kids involved?
when I saw this thread I was hoping it was you Joe that brought it back to the top. wish you had more time to build and post as you are a wealth of knowledge, but I understand your time issues.
Good to see you post again, Joe. Your work helped me get started.
Stan :campfire:
Awesome build along !!!!! Thanks for posting this .
QuoteOriginally posted by Osagetree:
Hard to believe it has been 4 years!
I dont have much time to donate to build-alongs but I still tinker with the yeller wood from time to time.
Grandkids, work and other obligations have taken my time.
I sure miss sharing with you Guy's and Gals!
Perfect time to bring this to the top!!!
I had forgotten about this one. Thanks for bringing it back up. Having just started with Osage self bows this year, I really enjoy spending time absorbing how everyone does theirs.
QuoteOriginally posted by Green:
I had forgotten about this one. Thanks for bringing it back up. Having just started with Osage self bows this year, I really enjoy spending time absorbing how everyone does theirs.
Same here!!!! This is the best I've seen so far!
He's alive!!!! Well Joe if you dont have the time just send me all those staves you have staring at you so you dont get distracted and I will help you out. :bigsmyl:
I hope you do make some more love your builds and always learn a lot form the Osage whisperer.
Awesome, Would love to see some of the steps on how you fit the limb tip bone/antler to the stave.
Just lots of sanding, filing and checking?
H1tman private message sent
Great tip on running the drawknife beveled side down!
Great thread, thanks Osagetree!
This was a great build! Went through every page, thanks to however dug it up and thank you osagetree!