I was drawing back, shooting my newly made arrows for the second time, when SNAP
ow, my hand, ow, my thigh... OW, MY BOW.
The carnage:
The limbs are still in good shape, though. I'm lucky that the split was even and uniform, right down the middle of the handle. How does a two-piece takedown longbow sound? Think it's possible? It seems like it to me, but I'm going to have to think this out pretty well before going on with it. I don't want to have a repeat of what happened today.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_DSCN8154.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=DSCN8154.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_DSCN8155.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=DSCN8155.jpg)
Unfortunately, this is my only trad bow, so I'm bowless for the next couple weeks until bow number two gets done. Bow number two was supposed to be for the swap, but I'm reserving it for me now. This means that bow number three for the swap will be, undoubtedly, my finest work yet. I don't want to let down my recipient with a bow that i'm not proud of. Even worse, I don't want to endanger them by giving them a bow that might explode on them.
OUCH, sorry!
How narrow was that handle?
on the upper limb on the upper pic, you dont have enough handle left to fit it in a sleeve. ruddy
That's scary...in several respects. :scared:
I talked with my shop teacher about it--He said that it probably was the mahogany strip that did it. It isn't as strong as the red oak, and he suggested that I sand through the red oak on top of the mahogany strip in the center for looks (even though I ended up wrapping a leather cord around it in the end). He said that he thought it would hold together, turns out he was wrong. Oh well. We're discussing a way to join the two pieces back together now to restore it to a one-piece design. If anyone has ideas on this, please put in your thoughts. The next riser/handle that I'm making for my second bow will be much stronger than this one, that's for sure.
If the break is relatively clean and the two halves mate back up well I would try glueing them back together. Fill the break on both halves with glue and push them together. Wipe off the excess glue and clamp well until the glue is well cured. Besure the limbs are alligned with each other. After the glue is cured, square up the area, make it smooth on all 4 sides and add an overlay on both sides that go into the fades. When that glue dries add a back and belly overlay that also go into the fades.
When all is cured reshape the handle area working the add ons so they blend into the fades on the sides as well as the back and belly. For a handle wrap use hemp cord from Walmart. Make a tight wrap for about 4" where you will be holding the handle and set it with Massey finish. FYI...the mixture I use is 2Ton epoxy(in the double syrenge)mixed well and thinned with acetone. Make it watery thin. I then take an old rag and roll it in a tight roll and use it to apply the Massey finish. Dab the epoxy wetted rag on the hemp wrap until it is saturated. Let it set over night and sand the roughness off. This will give you a weather proof handle wrap that will add extra security to the repaired handle.
It isn't a clean enough break to splice back together all the fibers, though I have an idea about splicing in a piece of wood in the middle of the handle, with interlacing tongues and slots. I'll draw a plan up in CAD and post it later. Then, I can thicken the handle as well.
Just brainstroming but you may be able to cut both end flat then splice in a spice between the to make up the differenct you lost by cutting out the broken pieces. Then overlay as PatB suggested
Kelly
That's what I was thinking, Kelly. I'm going to give it a shot once I can get back in the shop, but for now, final exams have me tied up for the next week. I'll let everyone know how it goes once I talk with my shop teacher/try something. The splice can also be thicker, so this doesn't happen again. I'm abandoning the two-piece take down idea, just going to get it back to a one-piece bow. The more I look at it, the more I think it can happen. Can't hurt to try, eh?
john if it was me from what i see in the pic id cut it down a bit and make a splice use gap filling epoxey and glue on a power lam also and a piec of whatever ya want id probly use a piece of hop horn beam for a new handel re shape it ya i relize ur gonna shorten the bow and ull probly have to re tiller it or ya could clue in additonal wood and fit the take down handels and re tiller but i think ya can save it either way just gonna take some time and elbow grease brock
This week is finals week: Today I had a calculus final, but after that it was free time to work in the wood shop! I was originally going to work on the bow for the swap that I started, but since the break I've been bowless and it's HORRIBLE. So, I worked on repairing this bow. Here are some pictures of how it went:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_0118111031-00.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=0118111031-00.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_0118111031-01.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=0118111031-01.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_0118111140-00.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=0118111140-00.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/th_0118111141-00.jpg) (http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd411/JLipinski/?action=view¤t=0118111141-00.jpg)
The new handle block is maple. I did well on my measurements, the length didn't change. I plan on getting epoxying and clamping that together pretty soon. A lamination will go on the back of the bow spanning about four to six inches above and below the lines where the woods meet. I'm going to resume work on the swap-bow next week when I'm back in the shop. Thoughts on what I have going right now?
Now you going to put an overlay over the whole handle and splice. Hmmmmm I really don't know. It sounds good though. I would not pull it at all except on a tree the first 50 time or so. Do so from a distance. If you would have cut what stumps of the old handle diagonal instead of flat I would feel much better. What are type of wood are you using for an overlay, that will be very important I would think. I hope the veteran bowyers chime in.
Good Luck,
Kelly
kelli im with ya i woldnt pull it at all if i was gonna splice it id done a finger splice joint i dont think thats gonna hold my 2 cents brock
@Kelly: I was thinking of a hickory overlay.
I don't feel too confident about it. I did the best I could with the tools my woodshop had; but it is cutting it close, that's for sure. The more I look at it, the more I think I should just finish the new one and throw this one in the fire. I'm going to set this one aside for now, I'll let you know if I end up gluing this together. Thanks for your input.
Oh you got a lot futher than I have my first two are did not turn out. My first I maybe able to back some day and salvage
I would not throw it away or burn them. You may put it on a tree and stand back and it works fine. Or some other Ideal hits you.
URAC-185 glue I think would be your best glue choose but I am basing this off of what other have suggest to me in the past.
Kelly
jphn you could always but it in half use what ya have and fit a set of take down sleeves then re tiller it tthats what id do be a heck of a lot safer and prettier lol brock
My father works for an airline, and has knowledge about crazy adhesives. He suggested one to me, and thinks it will do a better job than replacing the entire handle with steel (exaggeration). At the very least, my shop teacher told me to glue it up, and if I don't want to try drawing it, hang it on the wall for looks. He suggested putting a metal rod perpendicular to the joints through the area where they meet (running from back to belly) for both limbs. I might do that too after they get glued back together.
You are putting a lot of effort into something that might not work. Don't you think your energies would be better suited making another bow?
QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
You are putting a lot of effort into something that might not work. Don't you think your energies would be better suited making another bow?
You hit the nail on the head there. I'm starting on a bingham's T/D recurve after I get the swap bow out.
glad ur not hurt...I've only broken a couple bows while drawing...a good whack on the head will heal.
I would have been hesitant of that handle from the start.
I looked it over one last time; She's firewood. No way that joinery will hold. Thanks for everyone that put in their ideas, learned a lot while making this bow. When it shot, it was a great bow. Learned a lot and my next one will be better.
Mods, you can close this if you want
I'll be a bit more direct than Pat.
John, make another bow. Forget this one.
Was this a board bow?
I see a bit of grain wandering off in the handle area on the belly, anyway. It may break again elsewhere. Probably more violations.
Forget about it. Move on. It's the hardest thing to learn when bowyering.
Jawge
right on george !!! start another brock
Every broken bow I have tried to repair was a nightmare, Hang it on the "wall of shame" and build another one.
James..................
I've got a plan to start churning out as many bows as I can; I'm taking a lesson from Bradford and his christmas bow build-along: making a lot makes you learn really quickly. First step: get supplies.
Just make sure you slow down, enough to enjoy the building and not rush into mistakes.
Kelly
yep , it looks like it would make a nice reminder to take your time. i have the handle area of one of my breaks hung right over my bench. it reminds me to take my time , and think every step through.
looked like a good start. you ever decide if you were going to rose hulman?
-hov
still have to go see colorado school of mines before I officially decide, and see how much scholarship money rose is going to give me.
I'm going to go get the plywood for a heatbox and a form for a T/D recurve today, and get some more oak or hickory boards
oh once you hit Colorado you will not want to leave. The only problem there is it is filling up with liberals but where isn't anymore.
whats wrong with liberals!?
but seriously , if i had a choice between colorado and rose hulman , that would be a tough one. if you want geosciences , obviously colorado is the go to. hulman isnt a far 2nd place though.
keep us all updated.
-hov
Kelly, only half of the country is liberal and you know what that makes the other half! This is supposed to ballance things out but obviously not everyone thinks like that. d;^)
Oh just look at states with high liberials than average and look at the gun laws, hunting regs. I have a few liberal friends but you know the saying keep your friends close..........
Just saying.
No problems with liberal or conservative but I have a big problem with divisiveness!
...now back to bow building! d;^)