(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/2011-01%20Collage.jpg)
So here's where we start. This blank is 63" NTN. I am making this bow for a friend who let me cut this wood on his father's farm in 2009. He wants 45-50# at 27". He is right handed. I am going to make a rounded belly flatbow very similar to the one Dean Torges prescribes in his book "Hunting the Osage Bow".
A critical lesson I have learned from Dean and others in making bows and practically anything in life is that a good creation is laid upon a good foundation. Diligently following steps and building excellence on excellence is the best way to achieve the best. Sure, shortcuts and patches abound and allow us to tailor our creations, and creating, to our lifestyles but don't expect the best if you can't or aren't willing to put the best into it.
I have worked the bow down to a bit more than 1/2" thick with a crown down the center of the belly. The crown has been knocked down a bit to flatten the belly. I have floor tillered the stave and am ready for the long string. The long string is just barely tight right here.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com//photos/Blank-to-Bow/009.jpg)
I use a tillering setup that consists of a block of wood lagged to a stud in my garage wall with a big white arrow to center the bow on. The top of the block has a leather pad with a high point at the center to mimic the bow hand somewhat. I also like to mark the stave at it's fulcrum or the spot where the most pressure from the bow hand will be. See the black arrow on the handle? Speaking of the handle, it is left blocky at this point with the belly roughly parallel to the bow's back.
A rope is threaded through a heavy pulley lagged to the stud at about floor level. A handle is on one end and a hook on the other. Like this. The "LL" is for lower limb and the "UL" is upper limb. I also mark the string at its center using a piece of tape. All this is designed to best imitate a bow being drawn in the had while being able to watch it bend from a bit of distance.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com//photos/Blank-to-Bow/tillertree.jpg)
Our first goal is to get the limbs bending fairly evenly and about 10" or so. We also want to identify and fix any stiff or weak spots. The entire methodology at our hands is to remove wood where the bow does not bend enough. You can't put it back on so be careful.
At this point, we aren't pulling a whole lot of weight and only to about brace height. The right (upper) limb is stronger than the left as shown by the rocking that way on our fulcrum. The limbs are bending throughout their length with no real obvious stiff or weak spots at this pint. So our goal is to weaken the right limb by rasping the belly pretty much the whole length. There is a knot just past midlimb that we will avoid for now.
It is useful to divide the limbs in thirds; inner, middle, and outer. As long as no hinges or really stiff spots appear, you can work those areas and approximate a nice round tiller at this point. The bow is aweful heavy yet so I will adjust the weight too.
I start by rasping 20 strokes on the right limb and 10 on the left. This is pretty agressive and if you are new, use only a scraper from here on out. Don't dish your rasp or put a lot of pressure on your scraper. Incremental and predictable amounts of wood removal are the key. I count my rasp strokes and my scrapes. Usually 10 at a time unless I have a lot of work to do.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/013.jpg)
Here is the result. Anotherr critical thing about tilelring is that it takes a while for changes to register. That means you must exercise the bow each time you make a change. Do this by pulling the bow about 30 times. At this stage we are not pulling very far. We need to repeat the 20 right, 10 left we did above.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/014.jpg)
The difference is getting better nd I pulled it a bit farther. The right limb is not bending much in the inner third and it has a real stiff spot right at midlimb. The left is also stiff just past midlimb. I'll repeat the 20 right, 10 left rasps with a few extra at those stiff spots.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/016.jpg)
Here is the result. The limbs are more even and there is a bit more bend at those stiff spots. I pulled it a couple more inches. I am going to shorten the string just a bit to get maybe 2" of brace height.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/017.jpg)
this is gonna be good. :readit:
This is gonna be good, John. Thanks for posting it!
I am with them, looking good, can't wait for more!
This is good, John. Osage is what I want to work with but I need some more tutoring and learning.
Stan
Nice John, you guys just amaze me how your can build bows from staves like that. I need to get into that also.
Roy, its all done with mirrors and good edition! d;^)
I always feel a bit better after I can brace it. I just seem to be able to tell more about what is going on. The lower limb is clearly weaker than the right. I'm going to go with 20 rasp strokes on the upper limb. Keep in mind that we are going for a radiused or rounded belly so distribute the strokes evenly on the rounded belly. Remember to re-mark the center of the string since it is shorter now.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/018.jpg)
A little better.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/019.jpg)
Pulled to about 15". Looking better. The left limb needs some work inner third and the right will get some at midlimb.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/020.jpg)
I got a little more bend in the stiff spots. I weighed the bow at 39# at 18". You can assume that you will gain 3# for every inch you pull so, projected to full draw, this bow is probably around 65# if drawn to 27". But, we never draw a bow past our intended draw weight. To do so invites uneccessary set and kills the spirit of the wood. For now, we'll stick to drawing it about 20" until we feel most of the issues are corrected and then we will sneak up on weight. I am switching from the rasp to the scraper from here on.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/021.jpg)
I gave the right limb a few scrapes at midlimb. It's rounding out a little but still needs some there and a bit in the outer third. The left limb is stiff just past the fades and still at midlimb. 10 more scrapes, 30 more pulls and we'll see where we are.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/023.jpg)
I love a good osage build a long. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Looking Good John. We all ought to learn something on this.
Stiks
Great thread!
Halftime! GO COLTS!
That's better on the right especially at midlimb. The left is now a bit too strong. I think I am going to go to a bit more brace height.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/024.jpg)
That's pretty good but the left limb is most definitely stronger than the right. It's now 40# @ 20". I'm going to give the inner third on the left 20 scrapes. I'm also going to rasp into the fade a bit to see if I can get a littl e more bend there. Take it easy near the handle because changes are easy to overdo there.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/026.jpg)
Getting closer but it still needs more.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/027.jpg)
A little better but still needs more. 10 more scrapes, 30 more bends and repeat.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/028.jpg)
I will have to keep my eye on this I have a long way to go unit I am tillering but I will be there before I know it.
John do you use a gizmo or just eyeing it?
Kelly
Good stuff John!
awesome John, be carefull and get that right limb even with the left before u pull it further, heck u know what ur doin.
JD
Muzzleloader season is in here in Ohio. But I chose to stay home today to clean up the shop and get busy one some bows I've promised. This thread will help keep me pumped up,, thanks John! Yours seems to be coming right along.
Sorry about the Colts, John. Your buildalongs are awesome. Now I can learn something! It's been a long time since you've done one. :) Jawge
I have a question John, do you have knocks cut in and if not how do you keep the string on?
Thanks
Curious john, is your top limb longer? And how much? I also am a huge fan of the facet tiller method. Your old webpage is the reason I started.
Great buildalong! I think this is the first one I've seen where you can see 'in action' some of the lessons Dean Torges wrote about using the fulcrum of the bow on the tillering tree and modifying the contact on the tree to mimic the pressure of the bow hand. Your buildalongs and advice on tillering in other threads have really been helpful in seeing how it is done. Thanks for taking the time, we appreciate it very much. Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!
KellyG, I judge by eye and sometime do some digital tillering.
Thanks Jawge. Tough loss.
Ranger, nocks are cut. I used to just use a boot but now I cut shallow nocks at first.
Big Country, the nocks of each limb are equidistant from the fulcrum, so in one way the limbs are the same length. However, to accomodate for the rigid handle, the nock of the top limb is a couple inches farther from the center of the fade than the lower limb.
Does that mean they are different lengths because the working section of one is shorter than the other? Which came first, the fulcrum or the fade? When you pull from the center of the string, can you acheive an efficient and well-timed spring with different length working sections? Life is about balance.
Closer. 43# @ 22". 10 full length scrapes on the left and a little on either side of that knot on the right.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/029.jpg)
Closer. Limbs are pretty even but the middle of the limb on the right is pretty stiff.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/030.jpg)
Getting there. Left limb is pretty. 48# @ 24". A few full-length on the left and midlimb on the right. Maybe a touch in the fade on the right.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/031.jpg)
Very nice, John. Jawge
Getting a bit closer. After a few full length scrapes on the left and again above and below the knot on the right.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/032.jpg)
She's really starting to come around.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/034.jpg)
She is weighing in at 50@ at 26". I am going to shoot her in at that length and then finish tiller by feel. We are going for 50# or so at 27".
I like to leave a bow a couple pounds heavy before shooting it in and finishing it. I seem to drop 3-5 pounds in that process. Tiller is mostly done at this point. I will shoot a bow in and then check tiller again. Then I'll sand it and get it ready for a finish and do a final check. Than I shoot it a bunch and see how it feels in the hand.
Tillering like this is really just the beginning. If I get a bow looking great but it torques in the hand or shoots weird, then some adjustments are necessary.
Please also show the finished bow and how you finish your handle, where you place the arrow pass (and why) and if you needed to adjust. Thanks again for the buildalong, it was very informative.
Looks fantastic, John. Is the left limb your lower limb? It appears shorter. Jawge
Never mind, John. I see you answered that. Jawge
I got a chance to shoot her about 50 times at 26". She's pretty sweet really. Here is the right limb overlaid on the left via some photoediting software.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/35a.jpg)
They're pretty close but I see some opportunity for tweaks. I scraped just past midlimb on the lower limb. Here she is after some more shooting at 27" and sanding. She finished right at 50# @ 27".
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/36.jpg)
A little bit of black leather dye as a nice fade from the handle and the tips, a shot of spray poly and here's what she looks like now.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/37.jpg)
I'll give her a couple more coats of poly and then do the handle wrap. I'll take a nice final collage after that.
Nice John!
that was fast, and what a nice bow you got there.
wow that was fast. thats a pretty bow.when at full draw it doesn't look like an asymmetrical bow at all. the raw stave looked very clallenging too. very nice mr. scifres. ruddy
Thanks. It might seem fast on the internet :)
Very Nice
Very very Nice and thanks for the build along
Very nice...I really like the way you dyed the handle and tips...sharp!
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Glenn
Sure looks nice, congrats on a great build!
No john I stared my tread before you and I just got the sap wood off.
KellyG, take your time. Speed, if that's what is desirable, comes with experience. I have some bows still in the works after several years :) Lot's of times people have asked me how long it takes to make a bow. I answer, it takes as long as it takes.
One thing for certain, I can make a bow a heck of a lot faster than I can do a buildalong.
So here's how I do a skived leather wrap. JD "Horseapple" Jones gave a demo a few years ago at MOJam that pretty much showed the way.
First step get some heavy ish leather. I consider this more art than science so don't take my dimensions or technique as the one way to do it. In fact, I do it so infrequently that I kinda make it up as I go every time :)
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/39.jpg)
Then cut a strip 1" x 21".
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/40.jpg)
Turn your strip over so the back is up. I like to clamp it to a board now. Then skiv or taper all the edges with a knife, a rasp or move to the belt sander. Watch those knuckles! Our goal is a thin edge with a thick center. Taper the ends too.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/41.jpg)
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/42.jpg) (http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/43.jpg)
Get ya some contact cement, a bow without a handle wrap and some newspaper for the kitchen table.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/44.jpg)
Do a couple dry runs. Spread contact cement on the bow handle where leather will be and on the back of the leather (a sizing coat and then a final). Start at the back at the top and wrap the handle, butting the edges up tight. Pull hard and it should form to the contours. Then take something with a sharp corner and work all the edges together so you get some texture to the wrap.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/45.jpg)
After all has set up for a while, rub it down hard and doublecheck for gaps, high spots, etc. Then rub all the extra cement off with your finger or a pencil eraser.
Here is the final shot of the bow with string and wrap.
(http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/photos/Blank-to-Bow/38.jpg)
Thanks for watching.
Great buildalong John, excellent work and very sweet bow. Your discription of the scraping was superb
John, thanks for this build-along. Very nice! I am curious as to the shelf. How do you 1)determine how deep to cut it without endangering the stability of the bow, 2)When do you cut the shelf in this process?
Thanks again, David
snag,
There is a very scientific way to do that I really can't explain without writing a book. OK, ya got me. I just guess. If it breaks, I guessed wrong. Keep your handle 1-1/4" thick (back-to-belly) and you can get away with as narrow as 3/4" wide (side-to-side). I'd stick with a touch more than that though. This is with osage of course. I don't know about those second-string woods :)
I never shape the handle until I'm done tillering.
"I never shape the handle until I'm done tillering"...good advice!
I figured it was a thing where you learn it by experience.
Thanks, David
So dreamy, I like the smiple wrap.
kelly
Very nice indeed!
Real good John, thanks for taking the time!
thats a great looking bow!!
Nice bow! Lots of cool character!
Very nice...I like the dye job.
Anyone know why I get a red x box instead of pictures on John's thread? Art
Thanks all.
Art, That domain might be blocked for some reason. Does this one do it?
(http://sticknstring.webs.com//photos/2011-Pictures/2011TGSwap02.jpg)
No, that didn't help John. Still no pics.........Art
Very nice john, I like the leather dye look.
Hi John. Im sitting here convalescing on Sat. morning wishing I was in your garage and I see this build along of yours. Thanks. That bow looks alot different than the last time I saw it. love the dye job and its an awesome bow.
Beautiful work! That's my favorite type of handle wrap.
John, I just returned from a short vacation and had to catch up on your build along. That is a nice looking bow. Thanks for the pictures of the handle wrap you used on the bow. I did a handle wrap on my first bow that didn't come out as nice as yours. I picked up a couple tricks from your pictures that I will use on my next bow, that is almost finished. Randy
Great build-along and tutorial, John. You make it appear easier than it is...
Beautiful bow.
Stan
:notworthy: Outstanding!!!!
thats amazing! i gotta make a bow one day....
That is BEAUTIFUL John. I have read your webpages over and over through the years and alwasy seem to come away with another idea. Thank you for including the little handle wrap tutorial. May have to inlude that on the swap bow I am building for ******************!
As usual John, very nicely done. Dang, I wish we could get together and build bows again.
--Steve
Me too Steve. Me too.
didnt see the dye and handle the first time around.
how does that contact cement hold up over the years?
-hov