I have an Osage slat that I need to back. I have a piece of Bamboo but I'm not completely confident with it.. i was also thinking of getting some Hickory backing strips from 3rivers. Will both or either go on Osage with TB3 or do they need epoxy. I don't have a hot box so would have to use a non heat curing variety.
I've never messed with bamboo but hickory will work fine on osage with tb3.
Bamboo or Hickory will work fine. I've never used any glue except urac 185 for wood to wood glue ups, you don't need epoxy. Urac 185 will cure in 10 hours at 65 degrees and faster at higher temps, so a hot box is not needed with urac 185. But do not use urac under 65 degrees. I always leave my glue up's set for 24 hours before taking out of the form.
I've done both boo and hickory backed osage with TBIII. Both worked well. If it were me I'd stick with the hickory backing. Way less chance of back failure.
Thanks guys. Think I will put an order in to 3rivers for some hickory, unless there is a better supplier out there.
Bamboo is great stuff, and gives great performance, but having recently had bamboo fail and ruin an effort that was really going well, i am inclined to agree that there is less risk with hickory.
I also agree with the urac comments, i am a creature of habit, and used TB3 to the point that i was almost scared to try something new and have to build a heat box, but i tried the urac and just let in dry in my kitchen, no heat box...works like a champ
Had a hickory backed osage board bow "SPLODE" :banghead: recently. I think a starved glue joint is to blame. Had spring clamps on every square inch available. Did not degrease the osage either. May have contributed to the failure but some guys never degrease osage.
I used TBIII. I'm shooting 48 LB @ 28 HBO longbow now and all is well..... so far. Getting ready to committ two diamond back skins to it. :pray:
I think Pic would help him Jim. :)
Good luck, Jim.
Stan
I know many have had great success with TBond but it's really a poor substitute next to epoxy. If you are going to put in endless hours on a project go ahead and spend the extra $10 to make sure there will not be a glue failure.
I've seen quite a few TBond glue lines separate along the line. You would never see that with Epoxy. You may see wood ripped apart around a knot or some other wood fault but never a glue line separation.
Here is a link to bad glue joint.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=004755;p=1
I never had a glue failure with TB glues but I followed the prep instructions on the bottle.
My best results were when I used bicycle tire tubes as bands to wrap the glue up. You can't get them too tight. Once the glue up is wrapped you can clamp it in any style you want; straight, reflexed or R/D.
I also like Urac for wood/wood or wood/boo glue ups. Easy to work with, gap filling and sets up pretty quickly at the right temp.
Had another glue failure yesterday on a BBO I had glued up. I glued reverse wedges inbetween the osage on the tips. While stringing up for tillering I had the belly lam delam from the tip wedge made of cocobolo. I did not degrease the coco but never have with the other cocobolo I have glued. I added more glue to the joint and reclamped. We'll see what happens next.