that I really want to build a selfbow out of a stave. I've build a board bow before but now I'm itching to build a selfbow ideally around 64" and ~#50 at my draw. Where can I find a good stave? I was leaning toward Osage. If anyone have any recommendations for rough dimensions to reach ~#50. I was thinking 2" wide at the fades and take it down to 1/4" tips with the thickness around 5/16"? Correct me if I'm wrong. If anyone has any suggestions for different types of wood or anything else, I'm open for them. I know there's probably more and I'm sure I'll have more questions later.
One more question: What is a good seal?
Check the classifieds here for cheap osage. Also you can search around for fencepost dealears that may sell osage fence posts. Also look into local sales lists for staves. You could always look to cut your own, or even buy a stave from a sponser like pinehollow longbows. remember to make sure it is dry before bending it.
as for your dimensions, I would take the width at the fades to 1 1/2 for the first ten inches out of the fades or less width like 1 1/4 and taper from there to your 1/4 in tips if you use osage.
A few other woods are black locust, elm, cherry, hophornbeam, hickory, yew... the list goes on. Each wood likes different dimensions. Read up here to find out all you can. Go slow and excersize the bow as you tiller and you should be fine for sure with a few board bows under your belt. AS for a finish i would use truoil.
You should be able to find some osage growin somewhere around you. If not and you're ever comin my way let me know and i'll give you some. That stuff is plentiful around here.
Good info above. As far as a finish goes, Tru-oil is what I prefer. Beautiful and durable. It is also cheap and easy to apply.
Well cheap is good! How would you dry out a stave? Place it somewhere decently warm and dry for how long?
Another question: If you dry out a stave and shape a bow out of it, do you have to dry the roughed out bow like in a heatbox?
yes...
you can dry your stave even in a cold place , as long as the humidity is low. thats why some people make a warmer. cardboard box with a light bulb is as simple as it gets... you want to seal it up if you cut it.
once its dry , you dont usually have to re-dry it unless it wasnt dry to begin with , or you had it somewhere high in humidity.
i use tru-oil and love love LOVE it. smells awesome.use a rubber glove...
-hov
Take your stave and work it down to about 2" wide by 6foot long by an 1-1/2"-2" thick. After that clamp it or tie it down to a 2x4 with spacers between the stave and the 2x4. Set it in your house somewhere and it should be ready in about 30 days or so depending on how thick you leave it.
Is it easier to work with wet wood or an already dry stave? Seems like a dry stave would make the process faster.
Dwill,
I would also start looking for bowyer on this site that are from you neck of the wood alabama or if you are close to GA, MS you get my drift. I know of one in bama that is a great bowyer. Heck if you just make a post asking for a mentor close to you you may just find one.
Down your way I would not over look Peacan or hickory. They are much esier to turn into a bow you dont have to chase a ring.
Kelly
My parents do have a nice pecan tree out in the yard...
Dwill,
If you get a dry stave then you can go right into the final dimensions. If you get a green one, like one you cut yourself, then take it dowm to smaller dimensions like said above. I would rather chasew the ring on a wet stave, but that is kinda a personal preference. Different answers come from differect folks on that one. You dont have t o have a hotbox, but if you plan on making a few bows, and have the space, it wouldn't hurt a thing.
I don't fully understand exactly which rings to make the bow out of. Would I use the outer rings or the heartwood? If I'm correct, you use the outermost layers of the heartwood to make the back of your bow?
I just noticed on another thread someone mentioned drying it in the attic would speed things up?
If you're gonna use that pecan tree in your yard Then you can cut it and take the bark off and the outermost layer will be the back of your bow. I would think twice about cuttin one of your moms trees down though. The bark might be hard to get off this time of year.If you cut it in the summer the bark will peel right off. Ive never cut pecan in wintertime.
I dont plan on cutting it at all! I may go cut a small oak though. How is sweetgum as a bow?
If youre ganna cut an oak try to find a white oak or post oak. its stronger in tension than red oak. Never tried sweetgum but it would probably work.
Okay, white oaks are abundant here. May also try the sweetgum. We have several on the property.
If you can wait about 2 1/2 months you can come to OJAM. You can pick up a seasoned stave here very reasonable and have a lot of experts help you finish your new bow. Everything is free except your food. We have folks come from a lot farther than Alabama. Hope you can make it.
Tommy
I wouldn't be able to make it to OJAM as much as I would love to Tommy. Not quite driving age (15). Thanks for the offer.
Hey Dwill its great to know there are guys as young as you interested in buildin bows. I wish I would have gotten started when I was 15. Thats awesome!
Where in Bama do you live? I have made a selfbow or two, live outside Florence.
QuoteOriginally posted by Eric Krewson:
I have made a selfbow or two
Now that is funny. bow or two :jumper:
Jacksonville, Al. Calhoun County. I think Florence is a good ways away!
I'm in Birmingham and from Scottsboro. I get back up there now and then. You can p.m. me if you need some help.
Thanks for all the help guys. Gave me something good to go with. Hopefully I'll get something knocked out in the future.