Would boiled linseed oil be a good finish product for my oak selfbow?
I've just finished up my third selfbow. The first one I done I coated in parafin wax and it's still holding up good after a year of abuse. The second one I stained with minwax stain and finished with minwax wipe on poly. I done the third one the same as the second one. I am now looking for a nonreflective top coat. ON the third bow I used 3 coats of clear gloss and 4 coats of clear statin and it still shines like a mirror. Maybe someone can give a tip on a good weather resistant, nonreflective finish.
John
I used to use straight boiled linseed oil but began using Tru-Oil gunstock finish and use it on all of my bows now. It is easy to apply, easy to repair if needed and if you don't like the glossy finish I use a quick spray of satin poly over the Tru-Oil to cut the shine.
The problem with just linseed oil is you constantly have to add more and more coats. Once the bow is finished with Tru-Oil(which is a linseed oil finish) it is good for many years. If you ever need to refinish or repair the bow, Tru-Oil it works well by just feathering the repair and adding more over it.
if you rub down those hard finishes with some fine steel wool- it will matt them out without scratching.
personally i use tru-oil- but have done some bows with a verathane finish.
wayne
I am going to try the tru oil on my next one, which has already began to take shape.
After staining I use wax and a hair dryer.It will be as water proof as you can get it.I've used wax for at least 15 years.
I use Tru-oil and sand (using 400 or 600 w/d paper)the first 2-3 coats down to the wood to fill the grain and for the final coat, rub out with 4-0 steel wool and maybe buff with an old wool sock and it gives a nice, durable satin finish without the glare.