Ok I have a large osage stave. I know I can get two bows out of it. It has wide rings and is very clear. It is around 7" wide at the back now. I plan to spilt it again but before I do I am wondering if I can bandsaw the bottom third off and make a bamboo backed bend through the handle bow....a basic d style? I have a pc. of bamboo that I am wanting to use. It is around 1 3/8" width. Thanks for any help.
it all depends on the size of the split. I would probably just take the one stave and split it into two and call it good. It might work and if you want to try it, go for it, but the old saying one in hand is better than two in the bush... Pics would help.
Yes I agree with you...I will post pic to help.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x460/beetle_bailey1977/osagestaveend.jpg)
I told a fib...it is 4 1/2" wide and 5" deep to vee.
looking at that stave I would say that you might just take the one stave. The way thae rings curve like they do is my reason. Having said that if you were planing on going down a few rings then I'd go for two, but a belly split is definitely out.
I guess I am gonna remove the bark and sap wood and go down to the second ring. The thickest, and judge it from there.
thats what i was thinking. without seeing the whole thing , its hard to say if you could split it and have enough belly width...
then again , i havent even seen an osage in real life , so take my advice with some salt.
-hov
I would be real carefule splitting that stave. You may end up with nodda if it don't split right.
After you chase a ring and layout your bow following the grain you should get a real nice bow right smack out of the middle of it.
Just my opinion. I have tried to get more splits out of a stave than I should have and ended up ruining a good one trying to get two.
Just my 2 cents
Stiks
I have not got a clue at all. I would like to know though. I would have tried messed this on up. I would ahve tried to split it on he belly about 13 of the light rings up, if that would gave me enough for the second ring under the sape wood down. After the sap wood was remove I would have use a table saw and cut the top in half making 2, 2" wide stave. I would have had 3 pices of fire wood. :knothead: Glad I did not have this then, and I have you guys and gals to keep me straight. :pray: :)
I think you are on the right track. Get it down to the ring you want for the back and take another look. Belly splits are nice but no guarantee. The drier the osage the better the chance of getting a nice belly split stave. Any way that has been my experience. You could go ahead and try for a belly split if there is enough wood. If the split starts running up towards the back of the stave quit and just go for 2 staves. Dean
I sure appreciate all the input...I am learning as I go and can use all the help. Thanks
Ok, here's a greenhorn question...which is the ring you want to chase? The dark wide ring or the lighter colored ring? I've not done this yet....
The dark ring is early wood the light small rings are late wood. You work down to a good wide early wood ring.
Bailey, you got it backwards bud. The light ring is early growth and kinda spongy looking. It will have pores in it, the dark ring is the late growth and that is what you want for your back. It will look like it has very fine lines it. That is the grain you want to follow when laying out your bow.
You don't want any real agressive run out on your grain when you lay out the bow. this could cause it to lift a splinter on the edge and ruin your bow.
Stiks
S-n-S yep I am wrong...got early and late mixed up.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x460/beetle_bailey1977/osageaftersplit2.jpg) Ok I did a belly spilt and came out pretty good I think.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x460/beetle_bailey1977/osageafterspilt.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x460/beetle_bailey1977/osagestaveinsideaftersplit.jpg) This is the stave on the belly after the belly split.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x460/beetle_bailey1977/osagebigknotonend.jpg) Knot on one end and it also has a few pin knots.
How long is the stave(s)? If long enough eliminate the big knot, if not work around it. The pins shouldn't be a problem unless they are on an edge.
The outside looks like it will easily split into two staves. You can start the split in the center of the stave and work out both directions. This usually will give you a more straight split with less chance of runoffs.
Total length is 68" the big knot is around 9" from end.
That is some straight hegde there
I would split the outside piece in hald and work around the knots if possible. Looks like enough "meat" around the knots to bypass them but you won't know until you get to it.
I would bandsaw the outer split instead of splitting it if you can. Either way, make sure you leave 3" across the bark on the best half. That way you'll get one really good one and one narrow (splinter) at least. I have made many 1" wide osage bows so you can still do great with a splinter stave. Nice looking staves there.
Nice. I'd try to integrate the knot into the bow, makes a nice feature.
On the outside half I'd get down to 1 ring above the back and then check. You need 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" minimum at the bow's center. But bear in mind at 68" long you can adjust, making best of what width you have on each side. Like John says, better to slight one and get a sure thing, than to slight both and get two littles. Depending upon how the grain runs I like to bandsaw but you need to get the belly worked down perfectly so the stave rides the table keeping the blade perpendicular. If you don't you'll be fat on one side and narrow on the other.
This is what I mean by incorporating the knot. Not the knot itself, just the shape of the surrounding wood.
(http://home.comcast.net/~dcm4/Old%20Bow%20Stuff/bcb1.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~dcm4/Old%20Bow%20Stuff/bcb2.JPG)
Yeah I see that....I am thinking the same thing. I will probably split the top and take down the bark and sapwood to allow it to dry. I put elmers white glue on the back of the bottom sister stave I split off..will that work ok? I plan to stick them up in my attic for a year or so I guess.
Ok I removed the bark off of the stave and split it where a crack had already formed prior.....I ended up with a narrow stave and a wider one that all the knots stayed in. It was best I did it this way because the crack ran almost full length and had been there for a while because the wood was a lot darker there. I will post pics tomorrow. Do I need to remove all of the sap wood for drying or can I leave some on?