Here's a roughed out blank I bought that had been given up on. I figured it wouldn't be the only time I wasted 20 bucks. It has already been straightened some with heat as is evident in the darkening of the wood. I need advice on the best way to straighten this one and any other advice on the build. It's 66" long and 1 5/8" at the narrowest fade and 1 3/4" at the other fade. I've had some local advice on possibly steam or boiling to straighten it. I need you guys and gals to chime in please. All comments welcome! Thanks, Paul<><
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The only things that really worry me are the chracks(checks, wind shakes) at the handle and that one knot on the edge of one limb.
What I would do is concentrate on each limb individually then when each is acceptable work on the hole bow all together. And, I would use dry heat with oil. For the knot on the edge of the limb I would try to eliminate it if possible. I believe you should be able to remove it and still have plenty of width.
Check out my build along in last years Bow Trade. It took me quite a while and many heating and clampings to get "Flip Flop" lined up to complete the tiller.
If you take your time and think out each move this stave will teach you a lot about osage and wood bows in general...even if it is not a successful bow when it is all over. It will be worth every minute you spend on it , just for the experience.
Pat, would you start with the propellor twist or try to get the limb straight first.
I try to do both at once but that depends on the severity of the problem(s). Generally when I have a bow with lots of isseus I will work on one limb to get the sideways bend out then work the other limb and finally I will clamp it to a form and remove the twist and add backset. Usually when I'm at this stage the whole bow is clamped to the form and I'll heat and clamp as I go out each limb from the handle. After the whole bow is clamped I reheat everything well and let it rest for a few days before removing it from the form.
I do all of thisd stuff using oil and heat but for the final heating I will do it without oil and scxorch the wood a bit.
Wow. That's not exactly what I would call a bow blank. More like a stave. But, I would get it completely profiled and to less than 5/8" thick all the way across the limbs before heat-bending. Build a caul and then get it all done at once.
Now thats a nice challenging stave do as Pat said, the knot on the edge is best elimated if at all possoble, make sure to give the wood time to rehydrate between sessions with the heat gun. If you use steam coat the whole bow with shellac as it will help prevent andmore drying checks.
Hi Pat:)
What up, Dana?
Workin on a few bows doin some huntin, same old same old eh:)
Probably don't know what I'm doing but here goes. Went out to the barn for a heating and straightening session. Started with the worse limb first.
Clamped and greased up
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I guess you'll notice my jig is a bit unorthodox
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Lettin er cool down. Probably unclamp it tomorrow morning before work. I'm pretty sure it will need more work.
Paul,
Just leave her "crooked" and build your bow.
Too late for this advise I guess but it would have been an option(maybe).
Regards.
Bert.
Looks like you have a good idea what to do. Nice job on leaving wood around the knots. Jawge
kodiakkid,
Question if I may did you heat the back or belly or both. I mean did you heat it up a small section and add pressure. Heat more and just keep walking down?
Thanks,
Kelly
KODIAK KID DO AS PAT B SAYS ONLY THING ID DO DIFF IS IF THEM WIND SHAKES R IN UR HANDEL RAISER AREA ID MIX SOME FINE OSAGE DUST WITH EPOXEY FILL THEM WINDSHAKES OR AT LEAST FILL THEM CRACKS WITH A HECK OF A LOTTA SUPER GLUE U MAY EVEN HAVE SOME SOFT SPOTS IN THOSE KNOTS U COULD CLEAN EM OUT MAKE THE BOW WITH HOLES IN IT SEEN ONE A WHILE BACK LOOKED COOL GOOD LUCK BROCK
How many times can a limb be heated and bent before it's a waste of time? I tried probably 10 times on my lastest selfbow and I got the C shape out but it would not hold a reflex in one limb that had a natural deflex. The other limb had a natural slight reflex and it reflexed a little more and held it pretty good.