What's the trick to producing the long, thin, symetrical over-lays on a riser? Seems like I'm getting into the glass too far,and if I use .040 glass on the back, then it can become a real problem.Advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you make sure that you taper and thin the overlays before you glue up, you should only have to do light sanding to finish up. I didn't do that on my first attempt and it caused me to sand into the glass to get it smooth. Pup
I mask the glass next to the overlay with three or four layers of masking tape. So i can shape the fade out roughly without harming the glass. When it comes to blend the overlay into the glass I take the tape off and use a sanding paper with 160 or 240 grid and just go slowly until it blends nicely into the glass. I always work from the overlay towards the glass. It may take a bit longer but this way you have total control how deep you sand into the glass.
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Andy
Thanks for answering dcmeckel's queston as I was thinking that same thing myself. I glued one up the other day and profiled it last night wanted to do better on the overlays than the last time.
what I do is to take the overlay and put it on the edge of a piece of wood,then sand the taper with a block sander till it tapers down to paper thin, then glue it on.. I also do the same thing on my bow tip overlays. I also use masking tape to protect the glass..ApexPredator has some awesome skills and makes the best looking glass to overlay transitions..I am still working on my skill set..so like yama said pre taper before gluing works for me.