Hey everyone,
So I have been working on two new bows and i ahve had the Titebond III that i am using fail on both of them twice now. Is there another glue that might work better? Otherwise what could i do to prevent this in the future/what is causing it asides from maybe to much bending in the limbs by the handles even though there is next to none. Thanks!
Mo
Are you glueing a peice of wood on the bow handle area or in the bow between lams
only time ive seen titebond fail is if there are gaps or if the bow is bending through the handle.also could be that you clamped it too tight and the glue was all squeezed out.
If your fade-outs are too abrupt it is hard to keep a handle on a bow.
Taper them like this and your handle is much more likely to stay put.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/bondofixhandle.jpg)
what Eric said and note the widest part of the limb and the end of the handle taper overlaps a little, I had a few pop off before I got that right.
chrisg
It's as show in eric's photo Bob.
Ok thanks for the advice walkabout, the squeezing all te glue out, might be my issue.
Also thanks Eric, why do the fades matter so much? I'll be sure to do that with the new handle i glue on.
Mo, the fades are the transition between the rigid handle and the working limb. The smoother the transition the more efficient the fades are...ie, less over stressing in a given area.
To get a proper glue joint you should cover both surfaces completely then fit them together. Quick jobs can be done with only one surface covered but for risers and other structural work you really need 100%. Clamping too tightly, or not tightly enough, can starve the joint of glue if it squeezes out.
If you've done what they say above, and if you covered both surfaces, then I'd say move up to an epoxy or Weldwood but my guess is you're taper, like Eric said.
Urac 185 is all I use on handles and lams.
of course this is for normal woods, with tropical woods a good degreasing with acetone is a must.
And also scratch the surfaces with a hacksaw blade :-) ...
with titebond you need flat, matching gluing surfaces not rough. thats one thing some people mistake