Ok so my 1st bow i was shootin for 60 lbs but ended up with 50..... my limb tapers start at 3inches from fadeouts and go down to .5 in at the nock point. I am making a 66 in bow how could i get closer to my goal weight maybe start the limb tapers at 4 inches?
and this is r/d glass lam bow
I would suggest to increase the stack thickness and to shape the limbs pyramidal from the fadeouts to the limbs. Because you want your limbs to bend evenly over the whole length and not only on the outer part. What is your stack thickness, riser lenght and your taper rate ?
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Andy
stack is .44 riser is 17inches and .001 per inch taper rate. thanks in advance.
How wide are the limbs at the fades on this bow?
1.5 inches down to .5 inches at nock
sorry let me double clarify... they are 1.5 at the fades i measured 3 inches above that and started my limb taper from 1.5 inches to .5 inches
I would increase the total stack to 0.46 or even to 0.47. That should give you enough room to get the desired draw weight.
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Andy
hey guys i'm new to this is there a chart somewhere that i can check out i'm going by the one on 3 rivers. I'm sure there is a better one i just can't find it....
I got a chart from Jason that has worked very good for me so far. You can download it here...
www.swissbow.com (http://www.swissbow.com)
...in the download section.
I usually go 5 - 10 lbs higher to make sure i got the weight. Then i trim down the limbs and shape the tips nice and narrow.
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Andy
That would be .040 extra lam thickness for me Brandon. If you are happy with how the limbs are bending, don't change back profile. Do you have a full draw photo we can check out. Maybe tweak things on the next one, if needed.
One thing to consider is that a 17" riser may cost you up to 5# finish weight on a bow as long as 66"(typical charts with 18" standard riser length). In that case you should choose a stack 5# over what the chart says. Same situation if you narrow at the fades by 1/8". Another 5#. Rounding the corners of the glass when finishing can take a lot of weight off too. Most people tend to go a little thicker stack than desired weight because if you are like me I loose weight because everything is rarely perfect when the blank is squared up and ready to profile or I loose weight after tillering. I just about always end up a little more narrow than the glass width was before layup and also have to tinker with tiller and loose weight there too. Wiggle room.
Another thing, and I am assuming here, if you used the 3R chart and bought their tapers you have a total stack taper of .004 per inch not, .001 total stack taper. If not then disregard. Higher total stack taper can take weight too.
That 3R chart should state that it is for an 18" riser by my calculations and it doesn't say that. Anyway, shoot for at least 5# over next time, 10 is better when using that chart with 17" riser. With that in mind, (.480 using .040 glass)(.470 using .040/.050 glass)(.460 using .050 glass) should get you within a couple #s either side of 60. The draw should be smoother with the .050 glass on a stack that thick.
full draw..
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z152/BigBadGablues/100_0548.jpg)
thanks for all the info i'll lengthen my next riser to 18 see if that helps... that makes a lot of since jason thanks..
Man and this thing is SNAPPY i got the brace down to 7 1/2 and WOW... i love it.. i got 2 more that are goin to be here tom probably so i'll take alot of this into my next 2 builds....