Okay, so I've got a project on the go. It's not a bow, but I don't know another bunch of folks who'd know better than those here.
I have a laminated piece of wood that I've been trying (& trying & trying) to finish with tru-oil. It's going great on the 'flats' of the ply, but on the 'end grain' it's just soaking in. It now has a very uneven look to it & because of all the compound curves involved (Okay, it's a thumbhole rifle stock. Sorry) it looks like steamrolled crap. So, I'm givingup. I've hadenough of the damn thing. The beautiful colors of the laminates look like crap, so I've decided to paint over it.
Would that be OK?
I've already got 8 days worth of sanding done & I swear, if I have to do any more I will honestly lose the will to live so getting it back to bare 'wood' is simply not going to happen.
Can I just whack 4 or 5 coats of Krylon's best over the Tru-Oil?
not sure about paint and tru-oil compatibility, but best way to deal with grain like that IMO is superglue to fill and seal it. ive had the very same experience, and in hindsight getting the superglue to sand well would have been much easier than the wood itself.ive used tung oil over superglue with no real visible signs of anything going on between the two. maybe just try the paint out on a scrap piece first. at least id expect you would need to maybe rough it a little bit.
hey Brother i tried painting that stuff... not in this life time. just make sure ya get all the true oil off. or spray sanding sealer on then paint. :thumbsup: :pray:
Rob, I agree with walkabout. Try CA on the open end grain then True Oil.
Rob, I spray satin poly over Tru-Oil all the time with no problems. That is how I eliminate the shine you get with Tru-Oil. If nothing else you could spray shellac over the sanded area to seal is and the Krylon over that.
Rob,
Do not give up yet. I did my laminate stock 2 years ago, it just takes patience. Steel wool the whole stock at this point and tack cloth it. Then start adding thin coats of oil based Minwax polyurethane. Let each coat dry overnight and then steel wool and tack cloth. Within 3 coats you are going to really like what you see. I did 5 on mine with satin to match my beadblasted receiver and it looks great. Numerous compliments on it at various long range matches. Mine worked, so will yours. By the way are you shooting at the 1000 yard range in Tullahoma? If you are, where is it? I haven't been to Tullahoma since '01 and I spent most of that visit chasing gobblers down by Lem Motlow CC.
Try it before you paint, Sean
You would need to use oil based paints over the tru-oil. If the tru-oil is dry there shouldn't be any problems. People used to seal decoys by soaking them in boiled linseed oil, but they took weeks to months to dry enough to paint.
If you try to use acrylic paint it will just bubble and flake off as the oil trys to evaporate through the plastic.