I was just wondering what the consensus was on applying cloth backing to a bow? My first bow, the one I thought I repaired, ended up making some funky noises that I didn't feel comfortable with once it was finished, so I scrapped it.
I am doing another one, but this one is going to have a backing as a precaution :D
I got some fabric from the craft store today, and I'm not sure what I want to do to apply it. I have 3 tests set up right now. One with TBIII, one with THIN CA, and another with THICK CA. After initial applications of the three, the thick CA one looks best to me, but I cannot make determination until the TBIII dries. Then I am going to give it some tug tests and stuff to see what is stronger.
Do you think the CA applied ones will be too brittle once under the flexion of the bow? I was worried they may want to start to peel because it is only acrylic and it is not very elastic.
Also, what is the recommended way to apply this? I mean, I don't know of any way I would be able to keep a constant pressure on it to get full surface adhesion. Maybe wax paper and then clamping a board to it to make a sandwich while it dries?
Thanks guys. This one will be a success, I just know it!!
Oh, and the cloth backing will help make it stronger, right? Or am I wasting my time with it?
cloth backing wont add any draw weight, however it will help to prevent from lifting splinters if its the right material. i suggest using the tbIII, its all ive ever used and never given me any reason not too. superglue is best used to smooth and seal edges, and can even be used on a finish in some cases. some people wrap the limbs in an ace bandage when backing, ive even heard of just scrap cloth or bedsheets torn into strips to hold the backing down while the glue is drying. i personally havent used anything that needed to be held in place this well and the method i use is such that the first area i glue is already tacky and helping to keep the rest in place.
Silk or linen applied with TBIII will be the best way to go if you're looking for a high functing, good-looking cloth backing. Both are strong for their weight. I would not use CA glue for this application. Also, be sure to prestretch the fabric before applying, and keep it taught as you apply it to the bow.
Interesting thoughts. So the ace bandage won't stick to the linen/silk if applied? I would think it would get glued right to it.
I'll mess with a few more tests before doing the final product.
As I figured, TBIII is the preferred choice.
I don't think you'll have a problem skipping the clamping/wrapping. If you size the back, moisten the backing, put it on prestretched with no bubbles, and let it fully cure before stressing it you'll do fine. As walkabout said, it won't change performance, but will add durability and safety.
Yeah, after my last one, I am looking for stability. This would help to prevent something like that crack I had, right/
Also, how do I prestretch it? Just clamp it down somewhere and pull the heck out of it?
Soak the cloth in warm water and pull it to stretch. Lay it on the glued back, work out air and excess glue and let it rest for an hour. Then you can cut the excess cloth off with a sharp razor before the TBIII has a chance to completely cute. It will still be somewhat soft and easier to trim. Once completely cured use a file or sanding block to dress up the edges. If the cloth frays do as Walkabout said and add super glue to the edges and re-sand.
I only wrap backings(cloth, rawhide snake skins, etc)that are stiff and won't lay flat on their own.
yep, the cloth can help keep the limbs from cracking as badly as they would without it. rather than splitting the whole way across the limb it will help to localize them. also be sure youre compressing the limb edges with a hard round smooth object, this is a simple step and can definitly make a diference as well. i use the bottom of a big combination padlock to do mine. it compresses the grain at the edges to help with splinters lifting.
Do you stretch the cloth on with the fibers running lengthways and crossways or with an x pattern. thanks Mark
...has anyone used camo cloth ??? What kind ????
Any cloth will work but silk or linen are the best. If you can find either in camo, use it. Paisley would be sorta camo so silk ties will be a good source for that. Or perhaps a flowery silk blouse. That also would be camo.
I have a bow with polyurethane finish ...can I put cloth over the finish ???
You should remove the finish first to insure good adhesion between the wood and glue/cloth.
old army surplus jackets would probably work too for camo, i know we used to get them for next to nothing from our friend who had a surplus store. i have to agree with pat that you might not get good adhesion over the poly, although i think i might have seen someone put skins on a takedown that still had finish on it, probably just roughed up a bit with some coarse sandpaper to allow the glue to grab.
Walkabout ..Thats what I was thinking...I see skins on Fiber/Lam bows.
I recently tried a cloth (linen) backing on a bow. It's my third bow and so I'm pretty inexperienced. The only mistake that gave me any trouble was that I managed to miss a few spots with the Titebond III, and had to re-glue them after the rest dried, which didn't look pretty and probably doesn't provide nearly the same level of protection. So don't repeat my mistake there. I was being pretty careful, so be more careful.
"i use the bottom of a big combination padlock to do mine. it compresses the grain at the edges to help with splinters lifting"
Walkabout, is this the same thing as burnishing? I read in one of Osagetree's posts how he used a hard, smooth, round object to burnish a black locust bow to compress the wood fibers. (I think it was blacklocust. Forgive me, Joe, if my memory isn't right.)
Stan
I use a big thick shot glass to burnish. It has flat spot and some curve too. The edge also works to get into small areas... also if a bow breaks it come in handy too (a different kind of shine) ... lol!
Yes, Stan, it's burnishing. Some people also call it "boning" (but I won't.) You can also use antler to good effect, but with shot glasses and padlocks doing the trick it's really about results rather than implements. Be sure to do any staining and/or gluing prior to burnishing, though, or saturation will suffer.
Joel
I burnished my last bow with the metal pestle of my mortar and pestle. Just to add to the list of objects one can successfully use.
Jeff,
I backed with a mossy oak, linen, and TBIII. it worked fine, but you have to be very careful about sizing first and saturating the cloth so that there are no dry spots and keep working to keep out the air bubbles.
oh and to answer the original posted question-use TBIII over CA, only use the CA to fix air bubbles (make a small slit in the bubble with a razor knife, then fill with CA, compress smooth and let dry), don't do the whole thing in CA. It may look good on the test site, but it won't when you bend the limb.