I am building a new reflex deflex with wenge as a riser. However, I am not sure if I got a bad piece or it is just normal for wenge to have hairline fractures moving with the grain. I will be able to cut a piece from the block with no apparent fractures. My fear, is the vibrations from the limbs moving will cause unseen fractures to become serious problems. I have used cherry so far with no problems even with no accent strips for strength.
Wenge is notoriously hard to finish well, its also a bit "fibrous". I have seen these "fractures" you are talking about as well, they almost look like long open "poures" or "whiskers", they vary from piece to piece, but they are normal with Wenge. My point of reference is for knife handles, and im sure the bowyers will chime in with even more info.
Lamey,
That's good news that I did not get a bad piece. Now I have to just figure out how I am going to work around the natural characteristics of this wood. When finished do the looks out weigh the effort to finish.
Not relating to making bows, but in wood turning, you can soak the areas with thin CA and if the cracks are small enough to fill with some sawdust, do that. You can color it if necessary. This is done pretty often in woodturning, so it might work here as well.
Thanks for the finishing tips. I will definately give it a try. Hopefully I can get it to function as well as make it look half way decent.
i use superglue to fill the grain in red oak and other porous grain woods as well, sand in between coats and should be filled within a few applications. if you sand across the grain too the sawdust will fill in the grain and help to keep it looking natural, gunstock makers sand at 45 degrees to the grain of walnut and let the sawdust fill the grain.
I have used parafin wax to fill the grain in walnut and like Richard said sand 45 degrees across the grain to fill.......James