I started a new one piece longbow today, and thought I would share some photos. Previous build-a-longs have covered bow construction very well so I hope this isnt beating a dead horse. Some of the photos are out of sequence, I didnt notice it untill It was too late.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0623.jpg)
I didn't think about taking photos untill I had the riser cut and sanded, so here it is glued up and ready for the oven. It is Yellow actionwood and charcoal dymondwood with white core tuff accents.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0625.jpg)
I set the temperature at 140 degrees and baked the riser for 3 hrs.The electronic temp control is a valuable addition to an oven.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0626.jpg)
Here it is out of the oven and ready to be squared up.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0628.jpg)
I clean the glue off then sand it to width in the drum sander.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0635.jpg)
It's now 1.5" wide, marked with the template and ready to be cut on the bandsaw. Because it has glass accents that will destroy a blade I will cut around the glass and finish it with a hacksaw.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0639.jpg)
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0637.jpg)
It's time to make this fit into the form. First I sand the front profile on the disk sander.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0638.jpg)
Lightly clamp the riser in the form with the laminations to check the fit. Look for light between the lams, if there isnt any and you cant move the lams up and down then your done.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0634.jpg)
Oh I forgot, while the riser was in the oven I cut and sanded the laminations. These are actionboo
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0641.jpg)
Ok, the photos are in the right sequence from here on. With the front profile finished, it's time to rough sand the fadeouts. I use the support block to keep things square.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0643.jpg)
This fadeout is roughed in and ready to be finished with hand sanding.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0645.jpg)
Here is a jig I built to hold the riser while sanding.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0646.jpg)
I use curved sanding blocks with a 60 grit sanding belt to finish the fadeouts.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0648.jpg)
I check my fadeouts by feel. Pull the fade between your thumb and forefinger, it should have a smooth and even taper without any sudden changes in thickness.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0647.jpg)
This one is finished.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0652.jpg)
I bevel the ends of the laminations before I glue them together with Kwik-it superglue, I lost the photo of the laminations clamped down, end to end while the glue dried.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0654.jpg)
Ok, the Laminations are glued together, everything has been cleaned with acetone and is ready for glue up. And there is the clamps and Kwik-it from the missing photo. Computers hate me.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0658.jpg)
Everything was coated with smooth-on, stacked in the form, taped down and pressurized to 60psi. I didnt take any photos of the glue up because I didnt want to get glue on the camera.
I bake the bow at 180 degrees for 1 1/2 hrs. This is where the electronic temperature control on the oven is nice.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0660.jpg)
Well, the blank is cured, cooled down, and out of the form. If you look out the window you can see it is now dark outside.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0661.jpg)
I mark the length with a yardstick and cut the ends off with a hacksaw.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0664.jpg)
After I clean the glue off the edges with the drill press and sanding drum it's off to the drum sander to take it to 1 1/4" wide. 16 passes through the sander and its done.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0666.jpg)
This is close enough to 1 1/4"
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0671.jpg)
The fadeouts look good, it's time for tip overlays.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0667.jpg)
First I square up the ends on the disk sander.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build/100_0669.jpg)
Then I glue on the first layer of phenolic. If the bow is for me I use Kwik-it, If it's for somebody else I use smooth-on. I've never had an overlay come off with Kwik-it, but smooth-on is a better choice. With superglue the glue joints have to be perfect because it wont fill gaps, epoxy will. But hey, its my bow and I want to shoot it NOW!
Well it's been a busy day. Tomorrow I will get this thing strung up with the tiller blocks and find the center. I might even get the limbs sanded to width and the rest of the tip overlays glued on. And all before I go to work.
Good stuff Greg!
Good pics and a very nice shop! I wish I were that organised.
Outstanding. Thats the first time I saw the Osage colored actionwood. I've always wondered what that looked like. Great looking bow.
Nice build a long thanks for taking us along. That is a nice bow and your shop is to die for. Mine always looks like a bomb just went off in it.
I agree nice looking bow,and his shop is so organized.I bet he can find his tools...lol.
I like the colors and the shop. How long do you cook the bow and do you use heat strips or an oven/box? You said you cooked it for 1 1/2 hrs which makes me think you are using heat strips but you refer to an oven. 1 1/2 hrs in an oven is considerably less than the norm. Tell us your thoughts on glue curing times.
Thanks guys,
This bow was baked in the oven 1 1/2 hrs @ 180 degrees, I use heat strips for the take downs, 45 minutes @ 180 degrees, although they are set up in 30 minutes the edges are a bit sticky because they cure from the inside out. In Jack Harrison's book he recomends 180 degrees for 1 hr, and he uses an oven. The electronic temp control keeps the oven at a constant temp. The snap disk thermometer that Bingham's sells has a 25 degree operating range, It turns off at 180 degrees and back on at 155 degrees. Which adds to the cure time.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0681.jpg)
I put the tiller blocks on the bow this morning, and found centerline. These are the greatest invention ever, slide them back and forth untill there is no twist and there is the centerline. Scribe a line down both sides of the block, and that marks the limb tip.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0683.jpg)
I slide the blocks with pliers.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0684.jpg)
Figuring out how to string up the bow with the blocks was the hardest part. A couple bolts in the bench worked fine.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0685.jpg)
I use a straight edge to mark from the fadeout to the marks from the tiller blocks. Now you can sand right to the line and end up with no twist at all.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0686.jpg)
I dont have room in the shop for an edge sander so I use a sanding drum, It only takes 20 minutes to sand the limbs to width and it's cheaper than bandsaw blades.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0687.jpg)
Then I use a 12" sanding block with a 60 grit belt to smooth out the edges, this only takes a few minutes.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20build%202/100_0689.jpg)
Glued on the last of the overlays and I'm done for the morning. Total time this morning was one hour. Another couple hours and it will be ready for the spray booth.
Normally I would use C-clamps for the overlays for a tight glue line. However these spring clamps are stiff enough to crush bones. I found them at a surplus store, I imagine you could hold a Humvee together with them.
Well, this is all untill the weekend, now I have to go to work.
cool lookin stuff. great craftmanship!
congrats,
herm
WOW ! That's a fantastic looking stick. Great job.
----------
Andy
Great work! I am looking forward to the next installment.
Amazing, I can't believe you can make a bow that quickly and cleanly. Looks great!
-Jeremy
Greg, where do you get the tiller blocks?
You have to make your own tiller blocks, 1 1/2" diameter x 1/2" wide, cut the slot 1" deep,make it wide enough to fit over your thickest tip. Use 1/8" cable, I'm using 35 strands of fast flight but my next set will use cable.
Greg, you make it look easy! Nice job!
Is there a way to adjust the length when you use cable? I guess if that feature was needed you would have included that in the build along. I hope my shop looks like that one day!
After you draw your lines for your limbs going from your riser fade outs towards your narrower tips (after determining your center line), I notice you use a drum sander and obviously have excellent results with such. Why did you go that route instead of using a belt sander? I would be afraid I would get "waves" should I do that. I myself would have chosen to use a belt sander and since I am new to this I would like your educated and experienced feedback. Thank you.
Jim,
The tiller blocks are not adjustable you need a set for every length bow you build.
Lee,
The 12" sanding block flattens out any waves left by the sanding drum. I tried using a belt sander and didn't like it, and it was slower than a sanding drum. An edge sander would work best, but I don't have room for one.
Greg, just a thought, but it appears as if the tiller blocks slightly scratched the glass in the photo with the pliers. Have you thought about putting a piece of leather or rubber inside the groove? As for the edge sander, my "poor man's version" of one is my small "desk top" 36" belt sander just tilted over to its side. LOL.
I was thinking maybe duct tape inside the slot would prevent scratching the glass. Thanks for a view into your shop. Very insightful.
Lee,
I looked at the bow and there isn't a scratch on it, however in the photo there is. It must have been dust combined with a fuzzy picture.
The edges of the slot are rounded and smooth to prevent scratches. The blocks must slide back and forth and rubber would prevent this.
I love that shop, and a very nice build-along, thanks for sharing...........James
Greg,
I've learned a lot from you and Apex. Excellent work.
You have inspired me.......
Konrad
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0693.jpg)
Thanks for the kind words everyone, I hope I can help out. Well I slept in late this morning so I had better get busy.
I rough shape the tip overlays with the sanding drum.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0698.jpg)
Then I mark the string groove angles at 55 degrees.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0699.jpg)
I use a Dremel to blend the overlay into the limb.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0700.jpg)
Then I round off the top of the overlay with a file and connect the string grooves.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0705.jpg)
This is where tiller blocks save time, looks pretty straight to me.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0709.jpg)
This is a high tech, very precise template. Ok, so it's a conduit connector left over from building the shop. But it's the right radius!
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0711.jpg)
Then it's back to the sanding drum to finish roughing the shape.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0715.jpg)
After shaping it with a file and sanding this is what it looks like.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0717.jpg)
I mark the riser profile with templates, then cut the shelf with a hacksaw and make a groove with a square file.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0718.jpg)
I use a sander with a 50 grit belt to remove the sight window.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0719.jpg)
Then clean up whats left with a file.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0720.jpg)
Back to the sanding drum to shape the riser, and we are almost done.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0724.jpg)
I finish shaping the riser with a small rasp. This is the best file I have ever used, it cuts fast and leaves a smooth finish. I start sanding with 100 grit.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0725.jpg)
This is my favorite power tool in the shop, it will save an hour of sanding time and can be used for finish shaping.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bowbuild%204/100_0726.jpg)
And here it is, finish sanded, tillered, and hanging in the spray booth. I know what I will be doing tomorrow.
Great detail with lots of photos. Very interesting thread. Sent you a PM about your shop.
Phil
Thanks for sharing all of the tips and gadgets, and great job on the bow!
Thanks for taking us a long. One of the most professional build-a-longs I've seen.
very nice thanks for sharing!
What an amazing thread. Beautiful work and thanks for sharing with us!
Outstanding work! Thanks for taking the time to do a build along!
Thanks guys,
I sprayed the last coat of epoxy a few minutes ago, now to wait 3 days until I string it, and it is a very long 3 day wait.
Very cool! You make it look so easy.
-Jeremy
AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20finish/100_0730.jpg)
Ok, lets get a finish on this. I have never understood how white and tan makes clear.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20finish/100_0731.jpg)
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20finish/100_0733.jpg)
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz110/greginmalad/bow%20finish/100_0737.jpg)
Here it is after 3 coats. I really like how the yellow actionwood looks. Good osage is getting harder to find so it's nice to have an alternative choice.
Now I need to ask a question, I prefer my bows with clean simple lines without an excess of overlays or inlays. Do you like a bow with all the bells and whistles or plain and simple?
I like plain or just a lil fancy about like you have right there!
How do you like the T bird?
Kenny,
I think T-bird epoxy is the best finish, It is very forgiving and versatile. My latest batch is thinner and dries slightly faster than the older ones, and since it is a glue, it sticks very well. As a demonstration I finished a hickory backed osage bow by brushing the finish on. After 4 thick coats I wet sanded the drips and brush marks then buffed and polished the bow. The finish is absolutely flawless, and all it took was a 99 cent paintbrush and about 6 hours sanding time.
The only negative is that if you spray the finish you need a good clean spray room to get a dust free finish, or you have to sand and polish the bow. It does take 30 minutes to go dust free.
Greg
What a great workshop and Machinery! Your bow is great but the workshop is even better :)
Thanks for the info Greg!
You make it look easy. Amazing job!
I was searching for a sanding jig for a R/D riser and I found this post again. Very nice job, Greg.
ttt...great build along. was looking for tips on how to glue up tips and overlays. Great job. Does anyone know how long to allow the tips to dry when using smooth-on? i imagine you don't want to go back in the oven.
Norman, I hang portable lights with 100 watt bulbs over my tips. I think it was Bradford that had two small boxes/ovens just for tips. Great idea if you can find the old post to see how he did it.
When using smooth on for tips, let them dry 24 hours at 70 degrees. Smooth on is all I use for tips and I never had a tip fail.
Very nice!
bring back up for one of the best build alongs Thanks Shane
Thanks for taking us along for the ride, I'll have popcorn ready for the next round of pics, this is getting exciting!
This was an excellent build along.
Do you bring it to full brace with the tillering blocks, or just under tension ?